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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 20, 2008 - 02:31pm PT
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Very nice TR (and good job). Fun read and nice pics. Made my morning a bit better. Thanks.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 20, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
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Well done guys!
I loved that route in 1980.
Bump for climbing thread.
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esoteric1
Trad climber
san dieco, ca
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Oct 20, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
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way to go ryan!
good to see you up there enjoying yourself!
ill have to get ahold of you to see where youll be this winter...
mark from socal
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Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Oct 20, 2008 - 03:30pm PT
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Sweet!
Prod.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 20, 2008 - 03:33pm PT
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Really Great Pics and Trip Report! Thanks for taking the time to share your very cool adventure. lrl
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tradclimber14
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 20, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Good times Ryan, glad to see you guys rocked the Captain! And in good style, a boiling sun to snow trip!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 20, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
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Handsomeb:
I wish. That looks like the way to do it for sure. Unfortunately I remain a weenie free climber.
Yeah Matt (and Holly), the run-together beta was nice. I didn't feel like my adventure was spoiled (just me), but maybe I've spent enough time cussing at stuck bags and so forth. Ryan's mileage may vary.
Dave's vast trove of hybrids rendered this thing pretty harmless- thanks man!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Oct 20, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
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Bravo.
Tried to solo that thing and backed off after the 8th pitch.
I still had a bit of ground grip I guess.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 20, 2008 - 07:25pm PT
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Great report and photos - thanks for sharing.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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Great composition of your photos.
On my to-do list for some time. Maybe when I get layed off....
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leezus
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Nice work boys! Damn Rob, this really brings me back and makes me hungry again! Thanks for the inspiration. This was one of my favorite climbs for so many reasons. Historical significance alone is just awesome. A must do route for anyone in love with El Cap. Thanks for sharing this and let's plan something for the Spring or early Summer?
Cheers my friend,
Lee McGuffey
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sounds like it ain't changed much since 1968.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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gee, Don, you found PBR up there back then too?
great TR. handsomeB, I also dug the nightime shot - just enough exposure on the rock
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Yep,
not having to spend the night up there was well worth the weight of the ledge.
Good stuff.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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We didn't find anything. RR, Yvon, Chuck, and Tom are very neat climbers - tidy.
We brought are own.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Great report!
Fantastic photos too. The black rock up there is wild!
Thanks for posting.
Zander
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Lee-
Good to hear from you! I thought about you guys a lot on that one..especially luggin' all that iron around. Leave it on the ground, folks!
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 11:21am PT
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There were definitely some original bolts on the that thing! One of the more unforgettable moments was when we finally got our ledge set up with the fly at belay 23, hung it off the one high rivit out of a museum collection of old bolts, and started drinking. Rob was quick to point out that if that one rivit failed, we would be COMPLETELY f-ed. Drunk, a the end of our tie-in, wrapped in nylon, and likely completely apathetic from being so damn tired. We laughed a bit and then both looked at each other and thought LIGHT THOUGHTS!
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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ditch
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Hey ryan, nice send bro, and very awesome pictures. Glad you had a great time and sent a sick route. Hope to see you in the spring. I know exactly which cold day you speak of. I had promised rich i would take his noob friend phil up manure pile and show him the ropes. We kept waiting for it to get warmer and gave up a little after noon when it seemed to be getting colder and just started climbing with lots of clothes on. After topping out and walking to the base it started snowing pretty good. Watched and listened to a five man team for a while as they attempted to bail from the middle of nutcracker in these fun conditions.
Anyway, point is i was real cold. Hope your knee is doing better. Congrats on your send again
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Awesome send guys! Loved the story and accompanying pics.
Thanks,
Doug
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