Zander and Gary, thanks for TR- it bring me back to Enigma last weekend. When I climbed it before we rappelled down from the tree p3. This time we top out and last pitch was very good- way to do it. I am curious how you rappel? We did not find Nabisco wall upper bolts and rappelled from Meat Grinder. Actually I realized that this is Meat Grinder after first rappel
Looking from the road there are three classic lines, or weaknesses, at the Cookie. Enigma, The Cleft and Vendetta. You can see them clearly in the photo above. And they are moderate. Not sure which is next, Vendetta or The Cleft but both must be done. Yah hoo!
I just climbed Enigma this past Saturday. This was one of the first climbs
I heard people describing when I was new (the unusual double crack setup
on the first pitch.) A few decades later, I finally get around to it.
I'm certainly glad I didn't put it off forever.
We broke the climb up a little differently than Gary and Zander, in that
I continued up to the tree above Zander on Pitch 1. That put the 5.8
squeeze into Ron's lap, so he got the squeeze and the slab.
The flare/chimney pitch was the real deal, in my book. Serious in
appearance, from below and from most of the stances on the pitch. Some of
it was wet, in the first 30 feet or so. It went kind of like this: Yeah,
that's wet back in there. I'll just try this sopping hand jam, and I can
keep my feet dry, further out. Oh, damn, I have to use a wet heel/toe now
but it still feels OK. Oops, this arm lock...hey, are my hips getting
Some really really fun chimneying above all the wetness, and the moves
always felt better than they looked.
The 5.4 chimney, 4th pitch, was a delight, and then the choice of finish.
Ramp of Deception (I'd also heard talk about this way back when) looked
great, but we chose the original line (?) like Zander. I had a harder
time than I expected, but the protection was great. I may have missed
something, or been in some kind of haze, but after I did the strenuous
lieback moves, the climbing got strange instead of over. Heel/toes, hip
scum, roundiness...then I was sitting in the sun pulling up rope.
An excellent climb for a hot day, at least if you don't get an early start.
I think a repeat is just about dictated, for other summit pitch options.
Ramp of Deception would be a must-do if it were at ground level, and
Abstract Corner looks great, with the possible complication of its
If someone cruises the Enema, it would be good to continue up and finish
with Abstract Corner.
I say it a lot when I finish a climb, but I don't think I am at all off
base this time: What A Great Climb!!!
A week before, I went to climb this one, another common topic of conver-
sation in Berkeley in the 70s: did you fit? No, pard fit through but I
had to go outside...
Well, I was always one of the skinny guys, so I know I was going to fit
Somehow, being 15 pounds heavier has some correlation with actual SIZE,
who'd a thunk?
I got up to the pod, couldn't fit through, investigated the outside OW
moves, but since I didn't have any more big stuff and was looking at a
grounder, I climbed back down, and we bailed.
The major part of the pitch is one of the best 5.9 off width pitches I
have been on: great rock, 5"-6" in a corner with a great lip plus a good
foothold or two.
I think that if you fit through, this will be a classic 5.9 OW pitch for
you. If you have to climb outside the bulge, it will be a classic 5.10a.
If someone insists that it's 5.9 even if you have to go outside, I might
cry or puke or something, but I won't take it personally.