Enigma and Cookie Center TRs 10/18/08

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Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 19, 2008 - 10:48am PT

Gary Carpenter and I went up on Friday night and slept at Hardin Flat by the side of the road on the pine needles. It was a beautiful night with stars and coyotes.
In the morning we ambled down to the Cookie with the intention of climbing Enigma 10a and Cookie Center, 5.9 or 10a.

Here's an overview of the routes.

By about 8:00 we were starting up Enigma 10a. The first pitch starts with a cool chimney/crack combo to a short 5.8 squeeze and a newish two bolt anchor.

Here's Gary leading the chimney/crack.

Here's looking up from the top of the crack toward the anchor.

You can just see the squeeze and also Enema, which is the overhanging crack above.
Supertopo re-rated the squeeze to 5.9, I think just because of the grovel factor.

Pitch two is an unprotected forty foot slab, which caught my attention but proved mellow.

Here's Gary Following

Here's the old three bolt rap station at the top of the pitch.

There are plenty of good placements for building an anchor.

P3 starts with a thinnish move into a flare, a 5.7/8 chimney in the middle and a grovel move to the anchor tree.

Here's Gary up in the flare somewhere.

Here's looking down the 5.7/8 chimney.

The next pitch is a 5.4 chimney which in some sections is no easier than the 5.7/8 chimney below. You end on a broad sloping ledge under the two possible finishes.

Heres' a picture of the standard finish.

The crux is supposed to be a 10a lieback on the flakes near the top but the climbing below is similar in difficulty if different in detail. There is a very thin move off the deck that I was able to protect with a #4 stopper after some dirt removal. After that the pro is good. There are some cool hand jambs and stems in the middle. The rests are pretty good. If you can manage to avoid zee clipping the final lieback is pretty reasonable. Still I made it.

We stayed roped up for the walk off because we had heard it was exposed and people had died on it. There is some exposure but mostly you are in the brush and trees. Next time we would probably unrope and just be careful.
This is a great climb, fun and varied.

Next we went down to Cookie Center. I took the first pitch which is fun 5.9. Gary took the OW P2. He cruised up to the roof where he attempted the tunnel through. He decided it was too small so he did the 10a OW rooflette. We had brought the #4 bigbro just for this move. He did a great job of it.
I had followed this roof clean before but couldn't get it this time. You better have a little gas in the tank when you go to do this. Or be bad to the bone on OW like Gary.

We took doubles to #3 camelot and one #4 on Enigma. We didn't use the #4.
For Cookie Center you need singles to #3 with one extra #1 and #2 and two #6, a 9 valley giant or #3 bigbro, and a #4 bigbro. Another #4 bigbro wouldn't hurt if your OW technique is like mine.

I'm hoping Gary has a few more good pics to add.
See you on the rock.
Zander

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Oct 19, 2008 - 10:57am PT

Nice, looks like a good time.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Oct 19, 2008 - 11:13am PT

good show guys!
thanks for the TR

Gary Carpenter

climber

SF Bay Area

Oct 19, 2008 - 02:02pm PT

I enjoyed climbing "Zander Style" at the Cookie. We had some good Beta on the Enigma from Melissa that encouraged us to climb this classic. Really fun route with well protected crux moves.

Here are my photos from yesterday.

Zander following up P1 (Enigma)

Z starting up the 5.8/9 short squeeze

Working the 5.4 chimney

Z taking a short rest on a big knob before pulling the crux move at the top out.

Climbing "Zander Style" includes hauling a small backpack up the chimneys so he could enjoy a picnic lunch at the top (deli sandwiches, Starbucks and more).

Z on P1 (5.9) of Cookie Center

Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 03:34pm PT

Gary,
Post up the picture of you on the crux of Cookie P2. You cranked that thing!
It was a good day.
Zander

Brock

Trad climber

RENO, NV

Oct 19, 2008 - 05:10pm PT

Great time you guys! Looked fun. Cuddling up with the coyotes at night were ya?

Only one thing wrong with the Cookie Cliff...It is not in my backyard!!!!

Was just on Meat Grinder & Outer limits on 10/16. Sorry no pixs available, but some guy from one of the British climbing mags was shooting pictures. Sender? or was it some mag that starts with a G?

Also top-roped Red Zinger...Saw Peter Croft solo up this 7-8 years ago like it was nothing...Hell, it was a struggle on toprope for me.

Thanks for the trip report.
Enjoyed

Gary Carpenter

climber

SF Bay Area

Oct 19, 2008 - 06:21pm PT

Z,
Bad camera angle. Can't see the OW crack. Just some old geezer looking like he's about to expire!!

BTW, It looks like someone has a fixed rope on Twilight
Zone. Jaybro...Scuffy???

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Oct 19, 2008 - 06:29pm PT

Zander, you guys should prolly link this thread in the climbing beta section.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Oct 19, 2008 - 07:23pm PT

hey dudes, could I tag along too?

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Oct 19, 2008 - 08:15pm PT

It's nice to see you guy getting your dividends on all of your mid-week practice sessions.

Jingy

Social climber

Flatland, Ca

Oct 19, 2008 - 08:21pm PT

Nice Job, guys.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Oct 20, 2008 - 07:50am PT

Now that's real Yosemite climbing. My helmet's off to anyone who can climb those offwidths and chimneys by legit means. Thanks for the stories and photos.

spyork

Social climber

A prison of my own creation

Oct 20, 2008 - 08:07am PT

Now Zander, did you actually Z-clip? Inquiring Minds want to know!

Crimpergirl

Social climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Oct 20, 2008 - 08:23am PT

Looks like a lot of fun was had. Cool photos!

Jaybro

Social climber

wuz real!

Oct 20, 2008 - 10:22am PT

Cool trip!

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 20, 2008 - 01:25pm PT

Well done! Before the Coulterville Road rockslide, I always enjoyed the Enigma because it had no approach. It shows how lazy I've become that I haven't done the route since. Thanks for the report.

John

seneca

climber

jamais, jamais pays

Oct 20, 2008 - 04:57pm PT

Sorry I missed it!

Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 05:09pm PT

Yeah, spyork, I zee clipped.
What a Noob! I was up there looking at the supposed crux and decided to put in second piece in case I whipped. I didn't pay attention and clipped wrong. I liebacked up with enough slack to get to the next foothold before the rope came tight. I thought I must really be looking sketchy because Gary's keeping me on a short rein. Then he calls up somethings wrong with the rope. I could have lowered and cleaned it up but I really wanted to climb it in as "good" style as possible. So I just pulled up a enough slack to get me through the hard part and kept going. After I got to the anchor I lowered and fixed for Gary's follow. My humility is intact.
Zander