Steck-Salathe

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 148 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 10, 2008 - 03:04pm PT
Well, Jay, you may have to climb awful fast to get down in time for sushi. Though it shouldn't be a problem making it for pancakes. :-)
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jul 10, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
Great scott, yo, were you perched on my shoulder the whole time? You totally captured it (except the part where we stumbled down in the daylight, because, well, you know...)

The Steck-Salathe remains the hardest thing I have ever climbed in my life.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Yonder
Jul 10, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
big bump for yo.....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jul 10, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
Kirk you will perhaps recall Sean Easton of Canada with the floppy dreads; this 24 hours of toil took place with him. I think he's since transcended this level of climbing, but at the time it was a Great Leap Forward for us. Life was different after that.
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Jul 10, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
Yo I never read that TR before. Killer! Ya mon that pitch below the Narrows caused me some soul searching haha. My partner, this dude:



Assured me a single rack of Friends to #4 was 'adequate.' What the hell did I know?

That route is the gift that keeps on giving.

Anyway the TR inspired me to take the custom framed 3-series photo down from the wall and scan it. Couldn't get the pics out of the frame so I just scanned em through the glass.

Here is a great shot of the entry to the Narrows, shot on Labor Day, well, a while back I'll justt say:



and being swallowed by the whale



I had one helluva time squeezing through that f*#ker! Thought I was gonna pass out a couple of times. Probably physically the hardest 30' of climbing in my life - about a 1/4 inch to spare on my chec cavity betwixt half-a-breath and max expansion.

Cheers
DMT
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jul 10, 2008 - 07:11pm PT
At the height of my groveller days, I actually bought a #4 camalot at retail from the Mountain Shop specifically for the route. This we then assessed as 'too heavy' and left behind:

Not really a great choice.

Which epiphany came to me whilst attempting to yard through the pitch below the Narrows with a single #3 camalot.


And so anyway here I am, having moved to the area, and I'd really like to get on this thing again since it's been a solid 14 years since this formative effort and the thing is pretty much up the street. The next partner that indicates any sort of interest will definitely get a bite from me.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 10, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
Jaybro: "A fred of mine is trying to seduce me to the dark side and drag me up this rte during the facelift. Been up there twice, what's left to see?"

Well, there might be some garbage and junk that you could pick up en route, at the summit, or on the descent. That would be very much in the spirit of the FaceLift.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
anything we find is coming down, you betcha!

First did that one (same party) 20 odd yrs ago, pretty much same time of year, we were down, showered,(?) getting hassled by Walt, on the slideshow benches, way before dusk.


since I'm involved, there is every reason to suspect that this ascent, if it happens, will be slower. Though I think Fred, tf anything, is stronger now, than he was then!

Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Jul 10, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
I'm prolly the only person on the planet who enjoyed The Narrows. But that's c'os I'm a mutant. I'm not very tall & I have exceedingly short legs.

It's been mentioned but it's worth really beating the drum in saying the Steak-Salad isza TOTAL FULL BODY PUMP. It's cardio & Pilates a go-go and then a full-on descent when yer real good'n'thrashed. Multiply yer fatigue by ten if U were silly enuff to carry a pack.

We had a coupl'a waterbottles clipped to our harnesses & some candy bars & that wasabout it. But that was 25 yrs ago. The route wasn't greasy then.

Cheers, Tami

yo

climber
I drink your milkshake!
Jul 10, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
Whaddaya mean there's nothing left to see up there, Anderson? I can't remember a thing, man I was gripped reading that TR! hahaha Turned out OK though.

I'm sorta with Rhodo, kinda itching for the beast again. Next partner that mentions it...

Maybe I'll try out that opposing arm bar shizz from that other thread, could be key for the crux! (wherever the hell that might be)



(Killer photos DMT)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 29, 2008 - 01:32am PT
"...the thin blood of sport climbers."
I think there is a BAWC tee-shirt concept with that phrase on it!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
Jul 29, 2008 - 02:05am PT
I remember when you guys did that , Rob. You were Kings! Well, that day, anyway. The Sentinel ain't no roadside crag, is it?
Proud....
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 25, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Gotta bump this baby because of Yo's TR.
Ahbsolutely!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 25, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
The yo post made my freekin' day!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
Ya know Kirk, it felt like different people came down from there than what went up.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
The trick to enjoying the SS is to be climbing a bunch of cracks beforehand. If, for instance, you're coming off a winter of cragging out at Josh, bagging a slew of cracks each weekend, you'll cruise. Just jumping onto the SS cold will be tough.

None of the SS is very hard - but it's all strenuous, even the 5.7 stuff, and it burns people out not used to that much jamming.

I think the late, great Chuck Pratt did the SS over 20 times. Now that's old school.

JL
scuffy b

climber
just below the San Andreas
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
I wonder what it would be like to do this climb while believing
that everything was going to work out fine.

I know what it's like when you think you just might die and rot
on the thing.

After climbing it and knowing that repeating it would be the
stupidest (I mean SUTPIDEST) thing possible, it took me damn
near a whole day to start thinking it wasn't such a bad time
after all.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 7, 2010 - 07:49pm PT

Bump for what has to be the best piece of writing on ST, Yo's run down above. "We can assume anything" is going to be my go-to phrase for June 2010.

From C-Mac: "Steve Roper refers to the time period around the first ascent as the “technical age.” By today’s standards, however, Salathé and Steck used archaic gear. On a climb filled with wide cracks, the largest pitons they had were only an inch wide."

An inch?! I can't imag - I don't even...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 7, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
Already posted a photo including the Ford axle piton of Salathe's that Kyle Copeland, expert salvager, recovered off the SS.

Gotta show it to Yvon and Ken.
Sonic

Trad climber
Folsom, California
Jun 7, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
You should read the Salathe article in Alpinist 29? maybe. This guys is free soloing the route and actually passes Salathe at 75 years old! Bad ass article
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