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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
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With the weather we've had lately, the Northeasterners surely all went outdoors.
What have we got to show for it?
I'd climbed Atlantis, on the S Buttress of Whitehorse, once before -- in 1982.
I remembered it vaguely as one of the valley's best midrange trad climbs.
Last week I finally went back and confirmed that opinion.
Looking up from the base of the route: P1 (5.9) laybacks up the shaded, overhanging
corner in foreground. P4 (5.10b) traverses R beneath the triangular roof near
the top of the cliff, then follows a thin crack to the top.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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Lucander leading P1 (5.9):
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TRo
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
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Thanks for posting those rare NE TR's Chiloe. Keep them coming. I've got one in the bag for Roger's Rock and as soon as my daughter teaches me how I send it along.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 10:02am PT
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TRo, looking forward to Rogers Rock. I ain't been there yet.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 10:47am PT
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One cool thing about Atlantis is that it's still honestly trad:
apart from a bolt with a broken wire hanger on P1, there is zero fixed pro.
Lucander on P3, the "wheat thin" layback (5.9).
Fall view towards Echo Lake.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Oooo nice fall colors!
Looks like fun.
All the moss and vegetation gives it that back country feel.
Thanks,
Zander
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Looking down P4 ... Lucander breaks down his belay at the base of the chimney:
and sets up for the final crux layback:
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cowpoke
climber
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Oct 20, 2008 - 08:59am PT
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very nice! I've always wanted to try that route...looks like fun. and, beautiful scenery. thanks for sharing the pics, Larry!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:18am PT
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Very sweet, Larry! You'd pointed that line out to me before, and looked stellar. Looks even better in the climber's-eye pics. I'm bummed I never got around to trying it.
Thanks for sharing.
GO
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Jim E
climber
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Oct 20, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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"Northeasterners surely all went outdoors."
Unfortunately not. I was the victim of 'weekend warrior' treason. Partner canceled late Friday evening. Too late to form a plan 'B'. Other than medical or family emergency such an act permanently removes the perpetrator from my partner list.
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perswig
climber
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Oct 20, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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...or the perpetrator's testicles from the rest of him (assuming a dude?).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 02:06pm PT
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What with GO gone western, Eric swamped at the office, and Jim's unreliable partner, maybe
fewer folks got outdoors this weekend than I thought. I'm indoors today looking out the
window at more brilliant weather. Tomorrow I'm packing for another non-climbing trip.
(But dammit, I'll pack shoes just in case.)
Atlantis sure was a fun route on which to end the October season.
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Jim E
climber
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Oct 20, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
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" ...or the perpetrator's testicles from the rest of him (assuming a dude?)."
Ovaries in this case.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 20, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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Looks like an excellent climb. The Fall colors back east are incredible. Thanks for posting.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
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Yeah the colors are something. Every year, I'm amazed. For a few weeks, all the light turns gold.
Here's one more shot, a party on the last pitch of Inferno as we started to rap down.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Oct 20, 2008 - 05:26pm PT
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Chiloe, looks like we took a picture from the same spot, just a week apart.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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Yup, Divad, same angle -- you can see the exit crack (my next-to-last pics) at top in yours.
And the trees are about 1 week more colorful in my OP photo.
Looks like somebody's on Inferno. Is that your party?
Lucander and I were commenting on how much we like the S Buttress area.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Oct 20, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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Chiloe, yes, that's us, actually me, taken by my son. Yikes!, belaying me and taking pics at the same time.
Here's another similar shot.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Oct 20, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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Yeah Tomcat and I were grounded too. It was a kid weekend for us but we did manage to sneak away to Jockey's Cap for an hour or so.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 07:43am PT
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Take the kids to Jockeys Cap? We had a fun day or two there, when ours were little.
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