Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
|
ElCap Report 10/15/08
By Tom Evans
Yo... Another sweet day here! Perfect weather that is to continue for some time. The Nose is getting some workout as is Zodiac. So most of the shots you will see in this report will be from these routes. Unfortunately there is some kind of a controlled burn going on out to the west which is bringing in some smoke and making the skies a bit on the hazy side. Today's report is brought to you by the State of Montana, who's sons and daughters have brought you some good climbing on the big stone these past several days.
So take in the slack, tie your pard off short, step out on the run-out lead because you are protected by destiny!!
It's on Bro... today's ElCap Report...
Zodiac: Bob and Ryan continue in the lead of the pack having dusted off the Nipple and the Mark of Zorro by the time I left and most likely will spend the night on Peanut Ledge.
Cleaning the Nipple pitch on Zodiac.
Leading the Mark of Zorro on Zodiac
Starting to clean the Mark of Zorro pitch.
The next team down, Gary and Eric, did the Black Tower and then pushed into the White Circle having reached the start of the Nipple pitch by 4pm. I think they will stay there tonight.
Gary starting the crux of the White Circle pitches
Gary inside the "Jaws of Death"
Trip: The three man team was at the top of the bolt ladders by the time I left and I think will push for the top later this evening. A pretty good result for a team of three. Looked to me like they were having a good time up there.
Nose: Well there were quite a few parties higher on the route, several NIAD's and some guys from the 3D too. I don't know who most of them are but two of my posse were up there on a push. Aaron and Lance were up early and on the routeby 7am. They climbed pretty well for a team whose members had not climbed the route together before and both of whom are coming off injuries. I last saw them at the start of the Great Roof at 4pm. Suck it up lads! You have a long night ahead.
Aaron Jones jammin above Dolt Tower.
Hans and Yuji... NO! Wait a minute, it's Aaron and Lance short fixing on the Nose!
lance lowering across the King Swing as Aaron looks on.
Stepping out on the Great Roof pitch.
Cleaning the Great Roof
Leading out on Pancake Flake
Golden Gate: I did see the Norwegian team encamped at the base of the Golden Desert pitch. I also saw some other climbers jugging lines just below there... I don't know just what is going on... should I make up something??!
Salathe: I did see a team that was at the Block yesterday afternoon climb to the Roof pitch and over it in the late morning. I last saw them on Long Ledge later in the day.. they could have climbed off if they wanted.
Hanging off the Roof Pitch of the Salathe
Never Never Land: I looked out at Timbuktu this morning and saw the replacement team still on the ledge with no one going higher... who knows what is up there? I sure don't!
In other news: The cafe is full of tourons and Curry refugees in the mornings now and table space is at a premium. The routes on the Big Stone are open and the weather is cooperating. So..... where are you Bro? Get out here now... that's an order Puke!!! This has been a strange Fall as the normally colorful leaves are still mostly green. Must have something to do with the amount of rainfall this year. I talked to some Half Domers who reported that the spring at the base has long since dried up. Plus it is as cold as a meat locker up there for most of the day, so if that one is on your list you might want to give it a rest until Spring.
So that's the way it is for this the 15th day of October 2008.
hasta la pasta! ECP's
|
|
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
|
Go Aaron and Lance!
Way to get it done!
Tom, great report and photos!
We're big fans of it all!
Jay and Jeanette
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
|
thanks Tom...
|
|
enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 12:00am PT
|
Aaron is a super nice guy and a super fast climber!
Good luck guys!
|
|
hungry man
Trad climber
around
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 12:34am PT
|
Awesome. Goodnight!
|
|
Anastasia
climber
Not there
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 01:59am PT
|
Very Nice!
Thanks and a Big Bump to you!
|
|
Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 10:10am PT
|
Great report, made me remember leading the nipple pitch.
Thanks,
Prod.
|
|
Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ditch
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 11:21am PT
|
Thank You Tom! I want to give a big f*#k yeah to my homies on topping out on the trip last night and to the local monkeys aaron and lance. Lance had his hand and forearm in a cast last week! Charlie's first el cap route on the trip, and james and kevin's second el cap route. Wait to get it done, wish i was with you guys. Congrats!
blake
|
|
Llama
Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 11:27am PT
|
Awesome report as always Tom!! Thanks! I may see you in a couple weeks... I'll bring you another bigwall-burrito haha
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 11:45am PT
|
Aaron needs to wear his f-ing helmet.
-Kate.
|
|
Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
|
Cool pics as always. Great to see Aaron and Lance running up the nose. (and Aaron, listen to Kate and put on you f-ing helment :)
Cheers,
Doug
|
|
Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ditch
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
|
This might make me look like an idiot to a few of you, but no aaron should not wear a helmet if that is the decision he makes and feels comfortable with. I hate wearing my helmet and often dont. I am fully aware that this is how people get killed or become couch potatoes, but it is a personal decision and should not be mandated on everyone. Are you going to tell him not to short fix on a loop next because that is dangerous?? Or is soloing no longer acceptable because one slip equals death?? It is all about managing risk and is all based on ones own comfort level. Didnt hear anyone telling yuji to wear a helmet even after his accidental 60 footer. Hope this doesnt anger you kate. ha ha.
"LIVE FREE OR DIE!"- New hamp, best state motto
Blake
|
|
Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2008 - 10:14pm PT
|
You are totally right Blake. I was just joking around. :)
Aaron will always call his own shots!
Cheers,
Doug
|
|
elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
|
Well, I would tell him, as his friend, that wearing a helmet is the smart thing to do especially on a crowded route where anything could come down and hit him. Sometimes the irrationality of youth can lead to people ignoring simple things that can make all the difference in their life. Older people do it too. And that said, I never climbed with a helmet except within the last year! Except in the Alps back in 69. I guess I was just stuborn, or whatever you might call it. Funny thing though, I have seen him wear a helmet on almost every other climb I have photographed him on.... so ...of course it is his call and of course not wearing one is not the best thing to do. We, his friends, want him to survive at any cost and so we want him to eliminate as much risk as possible and still do the climb the way he wants to. Life is full of risk and who better to decide than the person taking it. We love you Bro, so if you can stand it, we would like to see the old brain bucket on your head... plus it makes for more colorful pics!! I guess you could dye your hair orange!!!!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!