East Buttress (TR)

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic
drc

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 13, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Everything started out according to plan. The first 2 pitches were physical but reasonable.


Great views


and photo ops.



Then we let 2 partys pass. They were both obviously much faster. In fact one of them was simulclimbing. The party ahead of us however pretended not to speak English with the resulting cluster wasting a good hour or so.



Meanwhile, the weather got colder and windier as we continued through what I thought was the crux of climb.




Is this around where the Supertopo cover shot was taken. In any case I wasn't about to take my shirt off.


And then...




Luckily this didn't last too long and we topped out just as it was getting dark. Jesse is still smiling.


The East Ledges are where?



At this point we stopped taking pictures. 5 hours later we were back at the car, but only because two wall guys showed us the way. Thanks Ryan and Rob.

Lessons Learned.

1. Check the damn forcast. Don't assume that it will be nice this weekend because it snowed last weekend.

2. Be a jerk and don't let people pass. Alternatively, learn to climb faster.

3. 5.7 feels like 5.10 when you cant feel your hands or feet, and much harder when there's fresh snow on the holds.

4. Nothing is open for food in the Valley after 11pm, but if you beg the nice manager at the Mountain Room might kick down some leftovers. Thanks Janet.




salad

climber
Escondido
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
rad!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:07pm PT

Perfect, I've been jonesing for a good TR for the last half hour - thanks.

I thought that was the crux too.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
full alpine value
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
heheee, nice job!!!!! Good pics too.

At least you guys dressed warm...prepared.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
Whooo Hooo. Full value for money on that one.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
Now that's adventure. Start with warmth, climb through cold and finish in darkness with a barely full stomach. Nice TR.
Dolomite

climber
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
Yep, you fellas got your money's worth all right. That's what it's all about. Thanks for posting.
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
good job, burley sheeite.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
I love that picture of the snow sticking to the cam.
That last pitch with the "easy" slab, the one with no pro, must have been interesting.
You guys are all right!
Zander
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
I was thinking exactly of that run-out face section with freshly fallen snow... yikes!

Well chosen pics and sparse text to cover what must have been a Homerian epic. Nice.
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
Wow! Thanks for the great vicarious adventure. Glad you are both alive and smiling!
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Oct 13, 2008 - 09:18pm PT
There are those who can keep right on snapping pictures, when the sh#t hits the fan and the funk sets in.

Weird motherf*#kers aren't they?

Great TR.

DMT
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Oct 13, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
Great TR. Huge thanks for postin' it. Glad you guys are ok. Been snowed on myself in the Valley ( we were hopin' to do the Lost Arrow tip & tyrolean ) You guys were prepared! Yey !!!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 13, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
Wow, good job guys.

It was even chilly (relatively speaking) in the south bay area .. numb fingers and toes on the waterfall cliff at CRSP yesterday morning :)
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 13, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
great report and cool (too cool) photos!

Peace

Karl
Bertrand

Trad climber
SF
Oct 14, 2008 - 01:52am PT
Nice report Victor! So many positive responses, and none calling us d-bags for getting caught in the weather. V, props need to go to the old pirate who gave us descent beta from his portaledge, hanging from a tree at the top. dude was on his 14th day. foraging other people's jettisoned food. classic.
shutupandclimb

climber
So. Cal..............d00d
Oct 14, 2008 - 02:29am PT
Are you guys Brits? You seem to have a knack for understatement?

Nice TR...........very cool
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 14, 2008 - 09:08am PT
Nice job, guys.
Glad you got out of there safely.
Well done.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Oct 14, 2008 - 10:19am PT
What a bunch of d-bags, ever think to check the weather report??? Ha Ha!

WAY TO STICK IT OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THANKS FOR THE TR!

Jeff
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 14, 2008 - 11:09am PT
"Are you guys Brits?"

Well, I know DRC is Russian, so yeah he pretty much kicks ass.
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Oct 14, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
5 hour descent? yikes. nice climb and tr!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 14, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
Great TR!

wow
Binks

Social climber
Oct 14, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
Cool (hehe).
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 14, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
Victor is the man, carrying my double ledge down and getting it out of the bag where the f^$*#n thing hung up on every m-f^&*n tree all the gd#&*(mway down. We would have been bivied with David the pirate for sure. Thanks guys!

Rob
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 14, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
Thanks for the TR. Nice pictures (love the snowy cam).
Jim E

climber
Oct 15, 2008 - 11:46am PT
it is good to bump

Good TR

Thanks!
Jana

Sport climber
Martin
Oct 15, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
An amazing adventure... So are u bored w/thunderstorms now? Is snow more fun? Heh... Glad u guys are ok! Stay safe and thanks for sharing...
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 15, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
Got rained on that climb once when soloing. Beats snow I think!

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/ElCapEastButtress.html

Peace

Karl
drc

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
Thanks Karl,
your writing is way more eloquent than mine.
I too thought that the crux felt a little stiff for 10b(no bolt or pins there now) but it was VERY short.
V.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Oct 15, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
And then...


omg the snow!

Great TR.

Thanks,

Doug
boognish

Trad climber
SF
Oct 16, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
Sternschein?
couchmaster

climber
Oct 17, 2008 - 10:52am PT
How does quality stuff like this get on the back page while Juans please to vote for McCain....for him...stays on the front?

WTF?
canyonrat

Trad climber
Armstrong BC
Feb 22, 2010 - 10:23pm PT
Thanks for the TR. Looking forward to doing the route in warmer weather
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 22, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
Sweeet! Bbrrrrr rrr.
Z
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 22, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
Nice! Old school lives on!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Last clip of Lichen Lunch
Feb 22, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
I love that route.
Good job at hangin' in there.
Yeah, I'd call that full value.
Wahoo!!
susu

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Feb 23, 2010 - 12:02am PT
Yeah, DRC, you should be writing more TRs! Classics! For another great read:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/815911/The_Idiots_Guide_To_Descending_Lone_Pine_Peak
Paulina

Trad climber
Feb 23, 2010 - 04:07am PT
See, I missed that the first time round!
What a story, Victor! Thanks for writing up.
greasemonkey

Trad climber
Davis, Ca
Feb 23, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
way to push through the bad weather guys. Thanks for posting.
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Feb 23, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
glad I caught this one on the bounce.

A one-day epic SUFFER-FEST!

Thank you for sharing, love those snowy pics!
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Feb 23, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
Sweet TR. Love the cam/snow pic. Burrrrrr. Chilly!
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Feb 23, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
And I thought the 5.7 runnout (with high drag from poor rope/sling management) was the lead crux and all I had to deal with was a windy day.

Snow covered knobs, yikes...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Feb 23, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
Sadly we've lost drc to the redneck coast (think lower half of the east coast)

drc get your ass back out here!!!!!!

kev
seth kovar

climber
Bay Area
Apr 19, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
Envy Bump!!!!

Good Show and thanks for the pics...
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Apr 19, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
Sweet business, drc!!

Next time, yell at the doods using some French gutter talk! Get's 'em everytime!
Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews