East Buttress (TR)


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Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 13, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Everything started out according to plan. The first 2 pitches were physical but reasonable.

Great views

and photo ops.

Then we let 2 partys pass. They were both obviously much faster. In fact one of them was simulclimbing. The party ahead of us however pretended not to speak English with the resulting cluster wasting a good hour or so.

Meanwhile, the weather got colder and windier as we continued through what I thought was the crux of climb.

Is this around where the Supertopo cover shot was taken. In any case I wasn't about to take my shirt off.

And then...

Luckily this didn't last too long and we topped out just as it was getting dark. Jesse is still smiling.

The East Ledges are where?

At this point we stopped taking pictures. 5 hours later we were back at the car, but only because two wall guys showed us the way. Thanks Ryan and Rob.

Lessons Learned.

1. Check the damn forcast. Don't assume that it will be nice this weekend because it snowed last weekend.

2. Be a jerk and don't let people pass. Alternatively, learn to climb faster.

3. 5.7 feels like 5.10 when you cant feel your hands or feet, and much harder when there's fresh snow on the holds.

4. Nothing is open for food in the Valley after 11pm, but if you beg the nice manager at the Mountain Room might kick down some leftovers. Thanks Janet.


Oct 13, 2008 - 07:00pm PT

Oakland: what's not to love?
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:07pm PT

Perfect, I've been jonesing for a good TR for the last half hour - thanks.

I thought that was the crux too.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
full alpine value

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 13, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
heheee, nice job!!!!! Good pics too.

At least you guys dressed warm...prepared.

A long way from where I started
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
Whooo Hooo. Full value for money on that one.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
Now that's adventure. Start with warmth, climb through cold and finish in darkness with a barely full stomach. Nice TR.

Oct 13, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
Yep, you fellas got your money's worth all right. That's what it's all about. Thanks for posting.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
good job, burley sheeite.

Trad climber
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
I love that picture of the snow sticking to the cam.
That last pitch with the "easy" slab, the one with no pro, must have been interesting.
You guys are all right!

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
I was thinking exactly of that run-out face section with freshly fallen snow... yikes!

Well chosen pics and sparse text to cover what must have been a Homerian epic. Nice.
nick d

Trad climber
Oct 13, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
Wow! Thanks for the great vicarious adventure. Glad you are both alive and smiling!
Dingus Milktoast

Oct 13, 2008 - 09:18pm PT
There are those who can keep right on snapping pictures, when the sh#t hits the fan and the funk sets in.

Weird motherf*#kers aren't they?

Great TR.


Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Oct 13, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
Great TR. Huge thanks for postin' it. Glad you guys are ok. Been snowed on myself in the Valley ( we were hopin' to do the Lost Arrow tip & tyrolean ) You guys were prepared! Yey !!!

Oct 13, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
Wow, good job guys.

It was even chilly (relatively speaking) in the south bay area .. numb fingers and toes on the waterfall cliff at CRSP yesterday morning :)
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 13, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
great report and cool (too cool) photos!



Trad climber
Oct 14, 2008 - 01:52am PT
Nice report Victor! So many positive responses, and none calling us d-bags for getting caught in the weather. V, props need to go to the old pirate who gave us descent beta from his portaledge, hanging from a tree at the top. dude was on his 14th day. foraging other people's jettisoned food. classic.

So. Cal..............d00d
Oct 14, 2008 - 02:29am PT
Are you guys Brits? You seem to have a knack for understatement?

Nice TR...........very cool

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 14, 2008 - 09:08am PT
Nice job, guys.
Glad you got out of there safely.
Well done.

Oct 14, 2008 - 10:19am PT
What a bunch of d-bags, ever think to check the weather report??? Ha Ha!

WAY TO STICK IT OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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