Fist ascent of Generator Crack


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Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2008 - 09:29am PT
Who and when?Thats first not fist.

Social climber
Oct 9, 2008 - 10:15am PT
You'd need a pretty big fist, no?
rick d

tucson, az
Oct 9, 2008 - 10:30am PT
F.a. Bob Scarpelli as a finger and hand crack c. 1955 when he was 3 years old.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 1, 2008 - 03:38am PT
here's a reference to the "infamous" Generator Crack in 1973...

Generator Crack Area. In April 1971, Jerry Coe and I explored a hitherto hidden small 200-foot cliff band directly above the generator building of Generator Crack infamy. This cliff, characterized by knobs, has thus far yielded four fine short routes: The Electric Gully, Chimney for Two, Chickie Pie, and New Diversions (Claude Wreford-Brown also in ascent party). The latter two are exceptionally fine. All are in the F8 range.
RICK SYLVESTER [url=""]AAJ 1973 p416[/url]
Alan Rubin

Dec 1, 2008 - 09:45am PT
I remember sacrificing many hours and much skin, on top-rope, in the fall of '70 to the Generator in an effort to learn the "ritual secrets' of Yosemite climbing.Even then it seemed to be a well-established climb. My efforts there, and similar ones on climbs such as Church Bowl Chimney Right (done wrong!!!!)had only temporary success, since when I next climbed in the Valley 2 years later, I had to start all over again, and still get stopped cold most of the time on the wide and the flared!!!!!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 1, 2008 - 10:07am PT
Haven't we just done this subject? Anyway, Generator Crack already was a toprope climb when I started climbing in 1963. It is likely it already was a "climb" for 3-5 years.

Trad climber
Mar 19, 2009 - 08:50pm PT

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 19, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
Psst, RickD Scarpelli was 6 in 1955...

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Mar 19, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
I wonder if I was the first to fall from it without a rope and break my back? Might as well own some record.

Trad climber
Mar 19, 2009 - 09:00pm PT

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 19, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
Prolly, eeyonkee, but I tell ya, the Scarpelli version has more drama than 'merely' grounding and braking your back. He's more objective, as he wasn't personally involved...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 19, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
I remember doing Generator Crack in 1967 or so, with
Barry Bates, but it had been done before that,
and possibly by Barry or Jim Bridwell, maybe Mark Klemens...
couldn't say for sure.
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