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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
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Yeah, I am zero, big goose egg. My main climbing partner, The Doctor, is shorter than me, but has a better reach cuz he is +2
One of my best friends from Washington is 6'1" and has a +7! We all call him "The Albatross".
Jstan is a knuckledragger too, I found out at Facelift...
Put me on the rack or something!! Any tricks for increasing your reach, short of shoulder dislocation?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jay-5'10.5" X 6'3"-bro
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Shorten legs. Ape index increases.
The down side of positive ape index is normal high steps become killers.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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did you see Yuji unfold on the couch for his Timmy O'Neil interview? he must have a huge index...
....I'm on the road Jaybro... just printing the maps!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Cool!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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I'm just shy of 5'6" tall with a +3.5 aper, realmojede is 5'4" with a +2.5--it seems to help a bit, but not as much as I would like:-)
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WBraun
climber
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There's a climb we put up many years ago called "Ape Index".
This climb addresses this human apex problem.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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Werner, seems like it would intrinsically be within a limited range of body/reach types, no?
I alweays wanted to do an FA at Index, WA and call it "Ape Index", as well
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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OMG - I just learned I too live with a knuckle dragger! BrassNuts (Dave) is +4"! I'm a mere +1" (not bad for a girl I guess. Huh huh).
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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74" tall, 80" wingspan. Mainly I find that this allows me to read the screen sitting far back, and still reach the keyboard, rather than sitting close and reading through my bifocals.
Buzz
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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plus five -
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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I'm neg. But I make up for it in other areas.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I'm 6' 1"....with a 6" 5" span......(knuckle dragger...)..The missing link between man and ape.......
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Post up: It's cool to be able to scratch your knees without bending over!
My money's on John for height to reach ratio...
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I increased my ape index by landing on the ground, feet first, from around 40 feet up. I got more than an inch shorter instantly! 72" and 77" for a +5.
The downside is it makes it hard to buy shirts or suits that fit really well.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Mine is +2. Since I am only 5'1" tall, though, does that make it more of a "chimp index"?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Sherri! You should get the "Apehanger" bars for your Harley then! A distinct advantage for this!
Wait. Gotta find my Sherri picture...there it is:
Miss Ya! Erik
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sherri has a good point - it's in part relative. Perhaps it's more meaningful to determine the arm span/height ratio. Though flexibility is also important.
Or we could just measure up everyone who's ever climbed 5.12 or harder, and figure out what the key measurements and ratios are. My guess is that the only consistently relevant one is body fat - skinny people climb harder.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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I am 6'0" with a zero index. My partner has a +4 which on some routes just pisses me off to no end. Especially, like the last new route we did. I spied the line, clean the sucker, figured out the moves, but only had enough for one good try. I fell and he walked it.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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6' with a +3.5 ape. It helps.
Aaron
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