Generator Crack is a Cruel Mistress - A Facelift Tale


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Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
Oct 1, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
Ya'll get extra points for campground 'air beta', also.....
Many(well, several) folks have been stuck in the Generator.....
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Oct 2, 2008 - 12:16am PT
In 99, too embarrassed to admit being stuck, I body hauled my right leg out of that Bukowski maw. When I Shamu'd over the top, I coulda modeled the render for any Sam Pekinpah shoot. Women still ask if I'm a shark attack victim!

Very nice photo journal . . . now I need a drink!

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Oct 2, 2008 - 12:58am PT
I just overheard a comment, "Clint would have freed her within the first two minutes." :-D

Kudos to Jilli for letting the story be told and thanks Ricky for telling the story. Long live the legend of Generator Crack.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 2, 2008 - 02:51am PT

how you like those Jay?

still feels funny, but damn comfy temp wise for those warm days where you still need a little something on the knees for protection.

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:56am PT
They protect the knees, while still letting you feel the breeze...

climber's near nevada...
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:17am PT
"If you're using the tree on this thing you are cheating."

lmao werner ;-)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:34am PT
Martin Boysen would be proud of you Jilli!

What's the worst......Indeed!?!

A character named Sully (short for Sullivan I'd guess) once got his knee stuck in the Hollow Flake on the Salathe. No friendly rescue party to hold your leg out there!

What you did learn is the amazing holding power of the knee joint. Mason Frichette is a great wide man and used to say that once his knee was in, it was all over.

Hilarious TR folks!

Santa Fe, NM
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:43am PT
We were going to try anything to keep from calling Werner. As I was up there working to take her pants off.... err... out.... someone was running to the car to get motor oil and a car jack. Yeah... that's what the thing needed... wider AND greasier.

Good story, Ricky D.... LOL!

Gym climber
Fannie's Crack, AZ
Oct 2, 2008 - 11:10am PT
The real hero of this thing was Jillian. She handled herself so well. Doug and I agreed she would be someone you want on your team. Cheers Jillian.

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
great thread - funny and very justified...

here's my Generator crack story:

god gave me the perfect body for wide,
and the pain threshold to go with it...

but, lemme tell ya, whenever I looked at
dat Generator I jus thought "fukkthat thing!"


NEVER got on it;

As a rock climb it's a "self-fullfilling prophecy".

am I light?
sure, but you knew that :)

Trad climber
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
Nature looks sexy with his shirt off just sayin.

Oct 2, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
Nature is a Hero's Hero. Saved the fair maiden from listing to port down the trail on a gimpy knee.

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 2, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
True story, a while ago...

My friend had decided we would all meet up and do the generator crack. He got there before the appointed time, and had prepared by taking one of his usual climbing outfits and stuffing it, creating an effigy of himself we would recognise for sure. As we approached the base, said effigy was up near the top of the crack, and we though he was soloing it!

At that moment, from above, he cut the dummy loose for the big whipper to the deck. Ouch!

Performance art...

We tried to kill him before we just about laughed to death ourselves.

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 2, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
okay this vid is flipped 90 from the way I redid it, the way it appears, on my computer. I could not find a control to rotate it on photobucket. Anyone smart about this out there?


also is there a way of doing this without opening the door to the rest?

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 2, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
Nice, Jaybro.

I've had the same problem with video rotation.. Probably has to do with the fact that it's too hard to rotate motion video. Just remember, like I do, to not rotate the camera vertically when doing video.

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 2, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
Thas true, blue. I have QT pro on my computer and can rotate them there, but somehow when it gets to photobucket it goes perpendicular.
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Oct 2, 2008 - 08:59pm PT

That's good humor!


Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:12am PT
HA! oh man, guys... that was a crazy... i can laugh about it now. ;-)
(actually i think i laughed a bit at the time, but it was a bit of a nervous laugh...)

i guess thats what i get for being convinced by a bunch of old geezers that climbing OW is a smart thing to do... hmm... j/k ;-)

old geezers THEY ARE NOT! let me tell you... Ed, Gary, and Jaybro are the MASTERS... someday ill get it down too... maybe. just maybe. ive got to attend Wide Wednesdays first...

but for now, back to the slab climbing. back to the Apron... ;-)

my knee is STILL sore!

Thanks for posting this Rick! good times... ;-)



Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:23am PT
it wasnt really my pants bunching up that kept me stuck there in granite hell- it was my KNEE CAP!!

the pants thing happened later,during the struggle... and by the time my knight in shining armor(Nature) showed up, him and i worked together to try and straighten out the creases, and then he shoved my kneee up and out
SO Nature is my hero!
actually, everyone helped so much and were so positive that that they were all my heroes for the day!! thanks guys! i wrote you a personal thankyou on the other thread "Wide is Love"

advice i have about Generator:
-do NOT use the tree to get in the crack! it makes it possible to shove yourself in there too easily... and then get stuck like me. ;-)
(but this was obviously user-error... ;-)
-Listen to Dawn (wear spandex!!)

cheers guys!


Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:26am PT
You are my hero, Jilli!
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