my rope solo trip up the Line

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AndrewM

climber
Atlanta, GA
Sep 29, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
Dave, I've had good luck with the biners to the two points of contact with the biners opposite the way the picture has them and the silent partner on the small side of the biners. this way, the spine side of the carabiners is at the waist belt (which likely transmits most of the force in a fall) and though the carabiners are triaxilly loaded in a fall between the waste and leg loops, they are not cross loaded. the belay loop method is perfectly safe and works really well, but I've found its much easer to clip the correct rope without looking down at your device when you use the other way. I use 6 backups on lockers on my belay loop for a 60m rope, usually. Anybody ever had a Silent partner not catch a fall when it should have. I fall a ton on mine, which makes me wonder how reliable they are (this does not count slow slides on low angle slabs, stuff getting caught in the clove hitch, etc. I was more worried about the possibility of dirt or dust getting into the centrifigual clutch and causing it to not function properly. how sealed is the SP from dirt and other particles?)
otis

Trad climber
lake arrowhead
Sep 29, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
Seconding devices......I found this to be a super hassel with the SP. The SP is horrible as a TR device. I started rapping the pitches with a mod. Grigi then pull the anchor and fly up on TR. It works good for rapping and great for TRing the pitch. Just more junk to carry. I would be interested to here more comments Re: SP tie-in . I've never tried locking into the belay loop. Also, I found on long pitches I would have to throw a clove hitch to a good piece about 100' up to lower the rope weight and let the SP work smoother. Like you said, It's all about system management to make things go smooth.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Sep 29, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
Norwegians set up is plenty safe. Maybe overkill as the specs for the silent partner call for two back up loops.

I rope soloed the line many years ago after shoulder surgery and not climbing for a while. That first crux move took some time even though I had led it a dozen times. A few parties saw my slow progress and went on to other lines. When you have the system dialed, you can rope solo as fast as most parties climb with two people.

Great job Norweigen, thanks for posting. You brought back some memories.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Sep 29, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
Hey Norwegian,
Thanks for the TR. Looks like fun.
I finally, after eight or more years, walked by The Line and there was no one on it!
Unfortunately we were going to do Traveler. Still want to do that rascal.
I've fallen while toproping with the SP without a problem. It's a pretty cool device.
See ya on the rock,
Zander
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Sep 29, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
Thinking of only using primitive devices for rope solo.

Use the gadgets for belaying.

Thinking of cams and pulleys and levers and springs on the way down would scare the sh#t out of me.

With my luck, Lever A would stick to Rope C and be released by ultra-sonic oscillation by Locking Biner Z coming unlocked due to a lightning strike caused by sliding granite friction generating a negative voltage which would trigger a positive bolt on the anodized metal..you get the point.

Been looking at plates and eights and drop forged brakes.

Did you need all that rope?

Been thinin of getting a short rope for rope solos, keeps you out of trouble.

Right now I am looking for a Lexan grapling hook, exactly like this, only different:



tooth

Mountain climber
B.C.
Sep 30, 2008 - 04:45am PT
Almost like I was there!
drljefe

climber
Calizona
Sep 30, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
You were not solo- Jerry was with you.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
Sep 30, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
Norwegian, you rule.... & I love 'the Line'....awesome choice.
As for others, same as always...You get to wait.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Sep 30, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
Yo Norwegian,

Sorry I missed you on Sunday.....got to love a guy who includes a picture of Pyramid Peak in a trip report. Alas Norwegian winter nears, you must be a lover of its' bounty? It's in your gene's, so send me a PM for an invitation to prepare ourselves for our next season's cycle in the mountains. A gathering of old & young Ghoulwe's in my garage is near......a time to celebrate, to wax and prepare for the harvest.

Berg Heil,

Charlie D.

PS.....I know you know but as a reminder you're a lucky man, such beautiful children enjoy the moments!
alpinecat

Big Wall climber
Seattle
Oct 1, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
You crazy SOB! Some of that gear I recognize from climbing with you in the 70's..... OK, it was the 90's, but still. Ah, that UV damage crap was just a scam put forth by the pro-ozone crowd...... I jest... Anyway, killer pics. Takes me way back to some good memories of climbing with you up there. And how beautiful are those girls and that rack of clove-hitches? Man that granite is gorgeous as well....Sierra granite. Thank you for sharing...... Cor
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2008 - 06:11am PT
nice to hear from you alpine cat. it's yours and jay's fault that i've sunk to the anti-social and complicated depths of this rope-soloing business.

well, and the fact that im scandanavian and a seeker of hardship.

we sure did have some times back then. good. and better.

i send good wishes your way and look forward to scampering or rolling with you in the future.

with your vast collection of photos, and your electronic skills, maybe you could post up some old photo of a couple of young guys in over their head and loving in. just a thought...

Indianclimber

Trad climber
Lost Wages
Apr 29, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
Norwegian, rope solo bump
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
The warrior had climbed within me as I had stomped past some coward bolts while placing natural protection to safely travel.
So I took my courage around the corner and aimed my ambitions at fingerlock, a 10b crack up a monument to the brave.
With my travels I had earned confidence. Besides confusion, and both encourage a fleeting response.

…..Suddenly, im riding the liquid sky, do-to-do-to-do…hmmm…when will I stop? …..i take flight off of rattly fingers with no feet upon a gently overhanging wall…. Softly do I conclude this journey…with a smile and a whoop because this here is my first fall upon the silent partner. It held me. It stopped my sudden dissent.

30.. well honestly I had not with me a measuring device save for my ASTM approved manhood, which would have been inaccurate anyway due to his survival stance of turtle withdrawal mode… anyway, I’ll put down 20 feet whipper upon my rope solo set up and it held with wary a whimper thus the doubts cast upthread are only based upon unsubstantiated fear and entirely inaccurate. Follow the manual that comes with the silent partner, and you shall safely prevail. As I occasionally do.
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Apr 11, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
Way to go Nor!

That looks harder than shee*z with all that rigging! Although it would get lighter/diminish as you ascended.

I use to rope solo with a 4-5mm prusik with a Jumar back-up. Probably not to safe a setup?? Although i did take a thirty footer and it saved my butt(started tying in short thereafter)!

Charlie Porter used a two Jumar set-up to rope-solo i believe.

EDIT: Kool TR...solo is the way to go!
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