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mathew
Sport climber
topanga, ca
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Mar 27, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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Whoa! the thread re-surfaced!
I didn't realize there were so many elbows out there. Thanks for all the positive thoughts from you guys. I have been lurking around the forum while I have been getting better (read many hours spent sitting on my ass) and you all have reminded me about what I was missing in my climbing. I first came here in '88 on a pilgrimage to the Valley. Man - it was fantastic, great vibe, great routes - as a result I moved to the US and have been here ever since. Now a card carrying member of the society that brought about such cultural innovations as 'Oz', 'Mr Natural' and 'Separate Reality'. So back to basics - it is clear that full elbow recovery will only be obtained by spending a lot more time in the valley. I got this summer all figured out. I think that this is what is meant by 'something good coming out of this'.
As for the last year of prosthetic elbow - well it was a lot less of a problem than I initially thought. They key elements are
1. ice it
2. stretch it
3. attend physiotherapy with a religious fervor
4. ice it
You do get handfuls of drugs at the outset. The only real outcome of the painkillers was that they made me tolerate watching CSI Miami. I happened to see a bit of it again the other day and I felt like the guy at the Dead concert when the weed ran out - 'Man this band sucks'. There are new anti-inflammatories on the market though - they don't mess with your head and if you take 'em before you go do something hard - elbow bliss.
LEB was on the mark with the pitchforking though - I've been doing a lot of that lately and in common with most of the range -of-motion exercise (digging, construction, neurotic cleaning) - it just generally gets you back in the mode of using everything together, being coordinated and in shape. Its also a lot more interesting than watching myself lift weights.
Anyway - last week - 1 year to the day that I broke it I cranked a 90 ft V3 (that I have wired) - my fist climbing in a year - and all is good - I think JT is on later this week.
Just one more random thought - as it is quite interesting to see how many people have had radii removed and still keep on jamming. In Buoux - sometime in the 90's - I met a guy who was climbing really well. Even better when I noticed that he had only one pectoral muscle. Strange, but even stranger that it didn't seem to slow him down at all.
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Bootlaces
Ice climber
County Fermanagh Ireland
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Hi Mathew, I found your old post whilst reading up on a recent Injury, I shattered my Radial bone 5 months ago. I have had radial head replaced, ROM is coming along with resonable flexion/extension. I'm wondering if you got back to climbing and how you have got on?
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damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
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What are these new drugs you speak of mathew?
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mathew
Sport climber
topanga, ca
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ha - the old thread appears to have been resurected ...
bootlaces:
to follow up - my elbow is much better - it clicks a lot - but the clicking isnt painful and it almost has total mobility - though my strength is down a bit - perhaps thats due to finding other stuff than climbing to go do ... you know ... other stuff - like mtb and surfing and stuff. I just moved to near Smith - so I'm planning on pulling on small holds this fall and that, I imagine, will be the acid test as I sense that tricky sport climbing will be a lot more stress on the joint than mellow J Tree granite or Derbyshire Grit. The key to all of this is ice, lots of physiotherapy, ice, small weights and ice. In that order. The big thing to come out of getting this radial head prosthesis is I now have a cast-iron excuse for not pulling down on the really hard stuff, having neatly eclipsed a lack of talent.
damo:
hmm - it might not be a new drug - but its new to me - meloxicam - its an anti-inflammatory that did wonders when things did hurt. TBH I try to steer clear of all that stuff where possible - but I did notice that it had a pretty strong effect upon the joint when I had gotten all enthusiastic and hammered it to hard.
best - Mathew
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damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
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cheers Mathew
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, matthew.... how nice when these old posts/threads come up after so long--they really help folks... BUT:
more important:
we get to see and share your joys of victories,when folks get well and through the therapy, and on into life, again...
thanks for stepping in and sharing, matthew...
god blesss...
*hope the NEWER injured poster, that bumped this a ways back, gets well, soon, too!
:)
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Souperman
Trad climber
Bloomington, Illinois
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I am currently headed to the Mayo Clinic for surgery for this same injury, and additionally a related wrist injury. It is not known whether or not I will have to replace the radial head, but the fracture is ugly. Reading this thread has brought me hope that I might indeed climb again. If aniyone still gets notifications of this ancient thread, I would love to hear from any of you who have reovered or are recovering from this nightmare injury. Let me know what's up.
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John M
climber
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Good luck with whatever treatment you get Souperman!
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dadmehr
Big Wall climber
tehran
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hi Mathew,
I fell 3weeks ago and broke my elbow. head of radius was replaced with a prosthesis. Can yon you help me how i can coma back to the rock again? what can i do for rehabilitation process.
Thanks
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futbol24x7
Social climber
NY
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Oct 17, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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Hello Mathew, Dadmehr, and the entire SuperTopo team here. Hope you guys are doing well.
I noticed that Dadmehr sort of re-opened up the thread here at almost the same time I shattered my own radial head. How is recovery going for your Dadmehr?
Mathew, it seems like your injury happened several years ago. How does it feel these days? Are you back climbing again? Have you had trouble doing regular exercises like pushups, pullups or even some weightlifting? What about on a day to day basis with regular activities?
My surgery was done end of August this year, right before my vacation...boy did that suck! I've been recovering instead of vacationing but just trying to stay optimistic here with things. How is everyone doing these days after this RHR surgery?
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