Son Of Heart - T.R.

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 131 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
An E appreciation.

One of the best ways to improve as a climber is to climb with those who are better at it than you are. I have been lucky enough to climb with E a few times; at the Needles, The Rincon, Idyllwild, Josh and Yosemite.

A highlight was Astroman. We swung leads, and the way it shook out I did the last pitch. I was in a state of bliss as E topped out. The fact that our ascent was not perfect was the furthest thing from my mind as we began the decent. E’s question: “Can you come back and try it again next week?” hit me like a gunshot. I did not answer fast enough, and he followed up with “Well, you’re not satisfied, are you??”

We came back two weeks later and did it squeaky clean. I knew, of course, there was no doubt E would climb clean. The pressure was on me, since I knew that if I dangled even once, even while following, the entire event would be spoiled. My only option in this case would be some form of suicide.

We sent it, this was a real highlight for me, and I take the lessons of that ascent with me every time I go climbing. That was about 15 years ago.

Thanks, E…
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
Thanks for the new pics Bill!!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
Man, you guys are heroes.

Also, nice story Kris.
Gene

climber
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:23pm PT

Unbelievable. Just stunning!
WBraun

climber
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
Yikes!

Don't fall. "Son Of Heart" me and Shipley 5th ascent.

Thanks Levy, "E" and Gene for the great photos ......
Gene

climber
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
Werner,

Levy posted new pics at the beginning of the thread. I just copied his. What a wild shot!

GM
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Sep 24, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
Fanstastic.

Beautiful pics.
Walleye

climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
Sep 24, 2008 - 03:26pm PT
It's so cool to see these photos as it brings back great memories. Thanks Levy for taking the time to post up.. So what are YOU guys rating the Kierkegaard Chimney????????

Having the time of my life in April 1990

Photo: Dave Schultz
E

Social climber
Tujunga CA.
Sep 24, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
the rating of the bombay chimney pitch is 5.8 chimney to 10b hands- just like what mac says in the topo. I guess I need to brush up on the free skills cause I hung on the gear some. I was out so far at one point that I think that I would have probably gone 100' if I whipped.

Erik

Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
Yeah, what he said....

I thought Nietzche Chimney was 5.10 & A1/A3+. The reason for the A1/A3+ rating is that although I had a cam close-by, the crack was so downwards flaring that the cams would sometimes fail to hold when weighted. At one point I had 2 biggies clipped together equalized onto my aider & the other large cam I placed overhead & it skated when I pulled down on it. I took a short daisy whipper onto the other two whid held but if they had ripped, I would have been pachinko balled down the slot & been thrashed or injured. That is why I am declaring it A1/A3+.

Erik's lead looked fierce too but with a bigger fall potential. I'm declaring it 5.10 & A-something. Go experience it for yourself!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 24, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
Thanks. Great TR with fine shots.

How do you go to the bathroom up there?

;-)

Karl
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Sep 24, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
My favorite E shot:

The Pirate, Suicide [Epperson image from an old BD catalog.]
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Sep 24, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
RE:
" At one point I had 2 biggies clipped together equalized onto my aider & the other large cam I placed overhead & it skated when I pulled down on it."

gulp...

first time I saw E, he don't remember it;
'77, coming down from Suicide rock w/ Brent Hoffman,
Brent stopped and asked E a couple questions;

I knew it then:
dude's a Real Climber.
Walleye

climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
Sep 24, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
I know a guy who is sort of named after a famous German Rocket Scientist who said "Oh mahn we bivied right below that chimney and I knew I had to lead it the next day. I was so scared I didn't sleep at all"

Also: What did Rick Sylvester say? Something about hanging off of those arm bars in that chimney with all that exposure? "A piece of my mind exfoliated away". LOL.......
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Sep 24, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
Walt encouraged me to get on this one, and I never did, yet
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Sep 25, 2008 - 10:52am PT
bump for E, Levy and some great pics
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 25, 2008 - 11:53am PT
Fabulous TR guys! Don't get to see much of this route as it has enough mandatory free climbing to keep the crowds at bay. The philosopher's chimneys just ain't sling jockey territory! LOL
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Sep 26, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
Nice TR!,
Jaybro, that Kierkegaard chimney has your name on it.
Zander
Double D

climber
Sep 27, 2008 - 12:35am PT
Great photos! Thanks for sharing em.
pc

climber
East of Seattle
Sep 27, 2008 - 12:48am PT
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
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