Leap beta-Fear No Evil??

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Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 17, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
Did this much underrated climb years ago, found the knobs on the second pitch to be much harder than .9. Then set up a TR on the first run out pitch a couple of times the last couple of years. We tried to do the second pitch a couple of years ago on a cold fall day and backed off the knobs. Is there a "trick" to the knobs? And how old is that bolt?- I think it must be the original. Thanks J
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Sep 17, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
Yes.. The grab and pull technique!

Similar to the "Climb Light" technique, except differnt!
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 17, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
i did this climb 2 years ago. i was climbing strong at the time, but i don't remember anything that felt harder than 5.9. the bolt at the knobs just above the first belay is way old, but it is at your waist when you are moving thru the said knobs.

these kind of routes really depend on where you're at head-wise. to someone that is well-thunk the route feels reasonable. this was my experience on this climb.

ive been absent on other climbs that kicked me silly. i waited for fear-no-evil until i was sure-fire.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
nudge
Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic
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