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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 4, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
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I've been told that you can use baby angles instead of sawed angles, my only problem is I don't know the conversion. There are only 3 sizes of baby angles and for a upcoming climb I need 3-3/4", 3-1", 1-1 1/4" and 1-1 1/2"
So what sizes does that cover in baby angles or am I miss informed?
Thanks
Zac
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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1/2" = baby angle.
5/8" = stubby angle.
3/4" = standard angle.
1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2" - named by their numbers.
2" and up = bong.
At least, that's what we called them BITGOD.
Add: It sounds like you may need more information as to what your source means by "baby angle".
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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
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So if I need all those sizes in sawed offs only the 3/4" can be replaced with a Lucky baby angle?
Thanks MH
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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baby angles are 1/2"(baby) and 5/8"(fat baby) ..... 3/4" are known as "momma" angles.
I've been told that you can use baby angles instead of sawed angles
This is the part that is muddy.... use them instead of what? define "sawed angles" I guess is what is needed. I used sawed everything, babies to 2". So I don't see how a baby is going to replace anything larger, since the size is just not there, sawed or not.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Holy frig, dude, you're not making any sense.
A sawed angle and an angle are two completely different animals! Only a sawed angle will fit where a sawed angle will fit, and you can't replace any sized sawed with a non-sawed, or vice versa.
What route are you planning on climbing, and precisely what does the gear list call for? Tell us that, and we can tell you what you need. But what you write above makes no sense.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Sounds like he got trolled....onsite, LIVE!
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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
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I was told by someone that they have never used a sawed angle before and instead of using a sawed angle you can use Lucky "baby angles". It didn't make sense to me either.
I'm doing The Shield and don't have enough Sawed angles so that's what I was told to use instead of them. I have a Sh!t ton of the Lucky baby angles but I was sure confused on how they would replace a sawed off angle. This came form someone that has a lot more nailing experience than I do. I guess I just misunderstood what they were saying.
Thanks for clearing that up for me, it didn't make sense to me either.
ZAc
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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the answer is "sometimes" ..
.. you can sometimes use a baby angle (or shortie angle) in a sawed off angle placement ..
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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2008 - 05:50pm PT
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So, I am not on crack and the person that told me this was right.
After getting my hands on a few regular Angles sizes 1/2" 5/8" and 3/4", I also got 1 3/4" "sawed off Angle, and I got the Lucky/Metolius sizes 1,2 and 3 "baby angles"
I took pics and here is what I was talking about
Here is a 1/2" BD angle and a #1 Lucky baby angle
Here is a 5/8" BD angle and a #2 Lucky baby angle
And finally here is a 3/4" BD angle, a 3/4" BD sawed off angle and a #3 lucky baby angle.
I guess I answered my own question, I just didn't want you all thinking I was a total idiot and was gonna kill myself on the Shield.
I guess I'm gonna be buying a hack saw for the 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" sawed angles I need, or will you do them for me if I pay you Russ?
Zac
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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I'll chop anything you got..... send them in.
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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
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nice!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Those Lucky's ain't even close to being a proper sub for sawed-offs.
I have some of em and they're a unique and nice addition to the pin rack, filling some weird size/shapes, but they've got a seriously extreme taper to them and scar like crazy because of it. And the eyes are tiny, won't accept alot of my biners, and so on. They just won't usually work where you typically need a sawed, like a very boxy shallow scar/hole. But they're cheap.
Edit: I may be mis-remembering aboute the eyes on the angles. I have some lucky "shallow angles" that are in LA sort of sizes that have for sure have really tiny eyes, can't remember on the angles.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Dude, if you really want to die on the Shield, go for it.
I'll cut your carcass loose as I go by.
After I check for usefulness.
It's ALL good!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The real question is which size is best for eating beans, sardines, and fruit salad from cans - and whether it is mannerly to use the same one for each dish.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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A std 3/4 is pretty good for all three....I'd use the same one...
Guess I'm a savage.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 12, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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okay, so Taco Big Wall Edition IX says to bring baby angles and sawed offs.
well, I'm a dumb hoosier from the sticks who's never nailed anything (other than Jeremy's mom), so I don't know exactly what that means. I THINK it means:
take the two smallest angles you have from "your local REI co-op", unadulterated
and THEN saw down Nos. 3-6.
is that right??
btw, I came across this somewhat helpful link on Teh Google:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/anyone-know-the-details-of-making-sawed-angles/107466202#a_107469418
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