Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Oct 23, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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though I'm not certain that we have a winner. He kind of hedged his bets.
Dude - you ain't weaseling out of this so easy. That car is MINE!!!!!!
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Oct 23, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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The very hard fourth pitch took 30 pitons, a fifi-hook and a belay bolt;
Ah yes, The infamous Squamish Fifi hook move. A4 on a cedar sapling. Jim Beyer eat your heart out.
You string together 15 of those above a swamp fall and you have a Squamish A5 (Hatten A2)
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Oct 23, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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I've got piles of slides (around 50 of them) of the Zodiac Wall epic. The third guy was NOT Brett, but I hesitate to identify the real culprit since he was one of the most spectacular creeps I have ever climbed with - he was such a masterpiece of greed, treachery and incompetence that he actually sparkled.
Since the as-yet-unnamed third guy insisted on leading every time we permitted him, Daryl and I were actually half-seriously discussing the wisdom of tossing his worthless body over the edge as we watched him spend three hours leading a 40' A2 pitch above Astro Ledge. You see, being trusting sorts, we allowed him to join us because he claimed to have done some hard routes in the Rockies and also appeared to know what he was doing when we climbed with him on the Island.
Some day if anyone is interested I may provide details of the above fiasco, but probably not soon since I still have trouble not having a psychotic breakdown when I think about it, even 35 years after the event.
By the way, Mighty Hiker - the route finding on Zodiac wasn't much of a struggle since there were plenty of stumps to show the way to Astro Ledge.
We found a CARPENTER's saw on the way and, as far as I recall, we left it on the ledge for future generations to admire.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Oct 23, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
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Woz! Good to see yer old carcass on this stupid site!!! Too bad you din't win the car ( see above ) . New wheels might turn you into the veritable magnate/magnet yer deserving of being.
Def you should share the story if not the slides ( do you have provision to scan 'em ? )
Don't have the psychotic breakdown. No, no, no.
Shoot me a "private message" via the ST email - would love to share some laffs wtih ya. I still giggle about the Hallowe'en sheep that caught on fire.
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Oct 23, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
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Hatten to Woz - Woz, get up there. It's your lead and I get all the smokes in case something happens !
ME ?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 23, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
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I'd love to hear Stewart's stories and see his photos of Zodiac Wall - possibly involving someone who later became a real estate agent? The SA party, in 1970, also noted lots of stumps.
I guess we've now spilt the beans on the famous Squamish fifi-hook manouevre (FSFHM).
It's interesting that the FA of Western Dihedral was in early June, 1966 - during or just after the FA of University Wall, which Dan was also on. A busy fellow that spring.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Oct 23, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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loose dirt and heather patches
Ya now the more I think about it (probably a bad idea right there) the more I call bull sh#t.
Who has ever encountered either "loose" dirt or "heather" on the chief? Mud, cedar and salal all the way. Did any body ever see him actually climb it? thawt not. Freds just another Maestri, Dr Cook or Tomo Cesan. Probably still hasn't been climbed properly. you know, ground up and all. Too late now cuz there's a top rope on it
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Oct 24, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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BeeKay - Like climbers are botanists? Not everyone is like our mothers who can quote the fekkin' genus and species. I'm sprised those dinosaurs in '66 even recognized the stuff as plant species and didn't just say " A lot of guck got scrubbed from the crack!!!!"
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gf
climber
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Oct 24, 2011 - 08:09am PT
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Anders,
Stewart has corrected my poor memory, it was another person as noted, but to my knowledge NOT the same one who is currently gracing the buses of greater vancouver. On that note, are you considering a similar change in career? :/
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 24, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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Nope.
Let's not forget that the companion route to Western Dihedral was named, by Daryl, Getting Down in the Brown. Those corners hold a lot of stuff, particularly as toward their bottom they're more like big ramps.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Oct 24, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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Uh, the Zodiac Wall saga would involve some pretty lengthy & serious slag about this gentleman. Although I'm not in the habit of posting lies, I'm not too sure about my legal rights if I tell the story using an alias to identify the guy who, by the way, (to my knowledge) is not a celebrity of any sort in Vancouver or anywhere else. Any advice?
Photos & story perhaps to follow depending on how safe I feel about the above.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Oct 24, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
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Woz. Don't name names. Say what happened and leave out the guy's name.
You never know who is readin' this forum.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 26, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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I'd love to hear more about that story too! You don't have to alienate him to let the rest of live vicariously through the tale.
The only climbin' I was doin' back in the 70's was to the top of the jungle gym in the preschool yard. I sure do enjoy hearing all of these stories though! A friend pointed me here recently, and I spent the last three evenings reading this entire thread.
Many thanks to Anders for conceiving and nurturing this thing for so long. And thanks too, to all of you who were there laying the foundation for those of us who followed. I've met some of you over the years, and hopefully I'll meet the rest of you out there someday.
Kris Wild
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 27, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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A friend pointed me here recently, and I spent the last three evenings reading this entire thread.
Welcome to the zoo.
Maybe for your second post you should put up a version of the Polaris report you posted on cc a couple of years ago. Looked like a fantastic climb.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 27, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
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Thanks, Kris - luckily there have been lots of unindicted co-conspirators to help keep the thing moving and vaguely on track. Amazing the things you find out.
Followers of this thread may be interested to know that I recently heard from the family of Eric Weinstein. His niece and her partner, and so indirectly Eric's sister and father. They do some climbing, and we're hoping to get together and share stories.
Stewart: If you want, send me your draft Zodiac Wall report, and I can vet it for legal and similar issues. Given the passage of time, I suspect it's not an issue, especially if the person isn't identifiable.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 27, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
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Maybe for your second post you should put up a version of the Polaris report you posted on cc a couple of years ago. Looked like a fantastic climb.
Thanks for the encouragement, I'm really proud of that route. Maybe I'll post that on the other current Squamish thread about pics and stories. I'll have to dredge up those images from the old computer....
K
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Oct 27, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Wild Kris ..........pitter patter go get att'er !!!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 27, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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Maybe I'll post that on the other current Squamish thread about pics and stories.
No, put it up as a TR. Then put a link to it in the other Squamish thread. And in this Squamish thread.
And, as your entry fee to Supertopo, volunteer to tow me up the rig next summer.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 27, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
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No don't cross post - happy post. And take me up the climb, too. I promise to tow the line.
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