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Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 20, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
Chill thyself Stew,

Every grade six is a long story. Anything worth it is worth waiting for.

Put it together at your own pace. Any story told properly involving Daryl takes a lot more than, "he rode a bicycle through a restaurant"...

Hatten was thoughtful while the Bullshit and fun took over. It was a strange but welcome influence in the drive towards stuff that you wouldn't put on a resume but the photos were great !...

Your friend,
Jim
gf

climber
Nov 21, 2011 - 01:36am PT
Stewart,
Thanks for the background on "dibble", look forward to the next instalment to grace the squamish in the 70's thread.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 21, 2011 - 02:14am PT
Great story SToo. :-) Glad I never climbed with D(r)ibble........
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 21, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
The last I heard of him, he was down in Yosemite. Daryl told me that the Dibble got busted stealing climbing gear AND promptly burst into tears and started begging for mercy from his captors, disgracing Canada for an eternity.

Did he at least recieve a mild sh$t kicking? Poor baby...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
Hmmm, I think I know who Dibble might be. I only ever met him in the Valley. Climbed Moby Dick Centre with him once - to be more accurate, I led him up it. Which learned me enough that I passed on trying the Nose with him.

Perhaps he had a control thing when it came to vehicles - we were once going down Valley from Camp 4, and he had a hissy fit and kicked out two people, IIRC for something they'd said about him.
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Nov 25, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Thanks Jim. That's the big problem with telling stories - trying to make them bearable in less than several thousand words is a big struggle for people like me at the best of times. It's interesting that you mention Daryl's quiet side, since I can clearly remember that he tried his hand at writing stuff, at least in his earlier days.

You're right, Relic - a vigorous thumping would have been a useful public service, but most climbers I've hung around with seem to be reasonably non-violent, which may explain why someone hasn't finished the Dibble off by now, and there's probably a law or something against that kind of thing, not to mention that time spent in the slammer cuts into fun time at the precipice.

Hey, Greg - do you remember the time I almost made Daryl cry? You & Blair were out at East Sooke Park with Daryl & myself. We decided to grab some lunch & I whipped out a bottle of beer, which I passed around until it got to Daryl - who would not give it back. Soon it became obvious that he planned on finishing it off, and my earnest but lame threats weren't doing much good. He took another swig and put the bottle down within easy reach. I was seething, since I had carried the damn thing in myself, etc. Anyway, while Daryl was chortling away, I picked up a rock and heaved it at the bottle, which shattered into a thousand pieces, spilling all that precious beer into the ground. He was truly speechless. I was truly satisfied. Made my day.
MH2

climber
Nov 25, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Pretty good storytelling, and I think there's even a moral in there, too. Aesop would approve.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 25, 2011 - 04:05am PT
Great stuff, Stewart. I give thanks for your efforts on this thanky holiday. The Dibble story was really enjoyable and relax, your writing isn't boring at all. Go ahead, stretch it out a bit.
Timmc

climber
BC
Nov 25, 2011 - 09:49am PT
Good stuff Stewart- keep it coming!
Auto-X Fil

Mountain climber
Nov 26, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
Bumping political garbage off the main page.
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Dec 4, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
Hi gang: Sorry for the endless delays re: the photos & story about the Zodiac epic. I suppose I could keep offering excuses, but I'll merely ask for (and thank you for) your patience. I'll try to come across with something soon.

Just for an atmospheric memory of the '70s, I do remember that after Daryl & I had finished the day's adventures we would grab some beer and watch people on Grand Wall, which was a Grade V in those days. Anyway, it appeared that the vast majority would make it as far as the top of the Pillar. More often than not, that seemed to be the stimulus for what would often appear to be an animated discussion followed by the start of a series of rappells(sp?) back to the deck. By the way, the word "rappel" also means to recall a falcon (reference: the Compact OED), which I suppose kind of fits.

Incidentally, when Daryl & I climbed Grand Wall, we came across a "summit register" on the flats (I think) that was crammed with accounts written by previous ascensionists. What made me remember the book so clearly was an earlier account of a climb by a guy who climbed it with his wife (or girlfriend) and bivvied there. Let's just say that it appears as though they didn't spend the evening sleeping, and I have wondered to this day if the female half of that team got around to reading the (graphic) account left for posterity by her companion.

Yessir, those were the days.

P.S.: Mighty Hiker, perhaps the safest comment I could make about the Dibble is that your candidate (at the very least) is someone who shares a septic tank full of the same DNA.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Yes, there was some sort of logbook in the Pardoe Hut on Dance Platform. I wonder what became of it? Perry?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 5, 2011 - 12:36am PT
My favorite entry in that logbook ( not sure of the year I read it ) was something someone had written after an account of the First Australian Ascent of Grand Wall was something along these lines ( I might have it backwards in terms of eating and f u C k i n g )

" Australians eat kangaroos and f U c K koala bears"


I've always wondered if it's true.


:-D
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:16am PT
Although I do know what happened to the much busticated remains of the Pardoe hut, I have no idea what happened to the register. Chewed up by snafflehounds? Absconded by itinerant history buffs?
No se.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 5, 2011 - 02:05am PT
It would be a cool book to see the light again, indeed...

The Asshole Review was a particularly funny roster !
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 5, 2011 - 10:28am PT
What was the reasoning to the removal of the hut?
was it in bad shape?

luke
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
IIRC, the Pardoe Hut was badly damaged by falling ice, between the time it was built (1970 or so) and when it was removed in the late 1980s. Maybe some rocks, too - although ice is a kind of rock. With heavy storms and lots of freeze-thaw, there is a lot of ice and snice plating the rock of the upper Chief, which comes plummeting down when it warms up.

Also, the climbers on El Cap were getting envious, because we had a hut on our cliff and they didn't.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
It was full of holes and rodents when I first saw it and that was around 1979. Not the place you'd wanna sleep at all.

gf

climber
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
I remember bivi'ing there in April 1979 during a 70's high school dream weekend-a jethro tull concert then an ascent of the grand in mixed spring weather. Inexperience of 2 of the 3 in our party (the third was daryl hatten but he sat back and let us do the leading except the last pitch when his patience ran out) kept us to a snails pace; we got to bellygood well after dark and grovelled up to the hut where we wrapped the mouse turd impregnated foamies around our wet shivering bodies and tied them in situ with climbing rope. Both Daryl and I smelled burning hair through the night; the next am Marc fessed up he had been trying to dry out using a candle!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 24, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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