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Messages 639 - 658 of total 740 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 17, 2011 - 02:00am PT
Timmc Great shot, but looks too steep for Bastille P4. Someone must recognize it????

Jim B I'm saving a few 60s stories and pix for MH's upcoming doctoral thesis on the anthropology of Squamish primates. If this is not available by 2015 I will then start a 60s thread. Promise.

MH Zodiac. No help here. Uncle Fred etc did not climb South Arete. I will email you the background. Maybe they scambled the Broadway descent route.
Timmc

climber
BC
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:03am PT
Credit: Timmc

Thanks Hamie.
You busted me- I rotated the other one. This one more accurately shows angle. Is it pitch 4?

It's of Bill Noble, another Squamish climber, who also moved to the Kootenays. Not sure if Bill climbed in Squamish during the late seventies, but darn close.

Tim McAllister
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:21am PT
Thats is the first and only pitch of rock on, not the bastille..
Timmc

climber
BC
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:57am PT
Bruce,

Yes, Bill is still in Golden with wife and kids and doing great.

Bill Noble 2010
Bill Noble 2010
Credit: Timmc

New routing a bunch near Spillimacheen and working as a filmaker etc
Child of the Wind is a great tribute to John. Thanks for the link.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 17, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
Bruce Fairley and Davey Jones also in Golden. Lots of ex-Squishers there. Koots Rule!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 17, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
John had cleaned it but neglected to jump on it rite away. Joe thought it had been climbed & went ahead & did it.

Which is why the climb was known as "Manual Labor" for many years. It has some other official name, but none of us ever called it anything but Manual Labor.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:28am PT
Manuel's Labour.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
Bumpin
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 19, 2011 - 01:07am PT
Please identify the source of this quote, and the route that was being described. (hamie may find it too easy.) Hint: before the 1970s.

Two previous attempts proved to us the difficulty of placing pitons and gave us a leader fall, but we did de-moss the second, third and fourth pitches. The removal of a vertical ribbon of moss and heather was immense effort for the leader; I tore loose one such 150-pound floating carpet, completely terrorizing AB, who was belaying me.

For those who think that active cleaning of climbs at Squamish didn't begin until 1974.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 19, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
MH. Could that be Uncle Fred writing about Alex Bertulis and NW Passage? We sure laughed about all the logging etc which went on up there, but it turns out that the laughs were on us. Once again Uncle Fred turned out to be the visionary, while we became the 'laughees'.
H.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 19, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Fred was one of the climbers, but it wasn't NWP. Fred seems to have been rather keen on cleaning, even dragging a Swede saw up climbs.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 19, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
Anders, going way waaaaaaay back in the thread you have two pictures of Diedre on the second page. The first one you say is from 1976, climbers on Bloodlust, a lush green forest below. The second picture is from 1975. It looks like there should be dinosaurs walking around the barren wasteland in the background. What's up with that? How can all those trees grow so tall in one year?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 19, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
The 1975 photo was from early spring, perhaps March or April. The 1976 photo was from early July, midsummer. Lots more greenery then.

Edit: The LSB had then burnt over within the preceding few years, plus vegetation had been removed for development, power lines, etc. The new 'crop' was just getting going, and most vegetation in the lower part of the LSB was quite low.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 19, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
The Smoke Bluffs look freakishly barren...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 21, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Well, the vegetation then wasn't as tall, and winter it always looks rather brown and bare.

The author of the quote above also said about another climb, in the following year: "This was the high-point for the saw, with which we had eliminated hanging brush and shrub evergreens. These fell to the wall’s base without touching-such was the steepness."

Any guesses as to what route the pre-1974 Squamish cleaning fiend might have been talking about?
Cloudraker

Sport climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 21, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
Tantalus Wall
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 21, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
Nope - although Fred took his saw everywhere, and seemed to enjoy attention from the tourists, neither quote refers to Tantalus Wall.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 22, 2011 - 01:56am PT
Yup, the second quote refers to Zodiac Wall, first climbed in 1967.

What about the first one?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 22, 2011 - 02:21am PT
Northwest Passage? Oh never mind you already said that's wrong.

or........


Right Wing!! Yes that's it!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
Crap Crags? Did Fred climb that?

All our guidebooks are in boxes in the basement during this renovation, so I can't check.
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