Our first trip up El Cap (Full Nose TR)

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snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2008 - 03:45am PT
Albert (yu-min) and I just got off of the captain after our first wall. It was a ton of suffering and in HINDSIGHT a lot of fun. We are going to call it the FUA of the Nose (First Ukileili Ascent). Full TR with pics and videos available for your enjoyment here:

http://pullharder.org/2008/08/27/the-nose-epicly/


Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Aug 28, 2008 - 08:00am PT
Bravo!

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Aug 28, 2008 - 08:28am PT
Now that is the standard to be kept in mind when writing trip reports!

I was with you guys for the whole way.
Who remembers to pack a ukelele(sp)? Dang I wish my balalaika hadn't been stolen......

The original music really makes it!

I am inspired, am developing new plans for a repeat ascent...
Blinny

Trad climber
That's-eKatToYou!
Aug 28, 2008 - 10:04am PT
BEST TRIP REPORT, EVER!

:-)

TWANG!

eKat
Nanook

climber
Aug 28, 2008 - 10:41am PT
Awesome! Thanks
e
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
Aug 28, 2008 - 11:06am PT
Good job, guys!



Now get back down here to your Singing lessons!!!



Rock on......
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Aug 28, 2008 - 11:27am PT
Great trip report thanks for sharing.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Aug 28, 2008 - 11:40am PT
Sweeet!

Thanks for posting.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 28, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
F*#king awesome.

"We had no choice, the only way down was up"

you hauled a Kamaka up the nose!! Could be the first ukulele ascent. Must've had a good hard case.
excellent.

Screw Michael Phelps. indeed.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Aug 28, 2008 - 02:23pm PT
Wow. Great job guys- on the route and the TR.
yu-min

Big Wall climber
california, san diego
Aug 28, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
Thanks a lot everyone!!!! The Uke is becoming a tradition on our big walls, always adds a bit of Stoke at some crucial moments. Now, a few days later the pain and suffering has faded from the mind and i think were ready for another rock out on another wall, any suggestions? Oh and good spot on the "Kamaka", the best ukes out there!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Aug 28, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
I think that the ukelele has set the standard for wall instrument. Great TR guys. Good effort, and I agree that was a classic line "the only way down was up."

Cheers,

Doug
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Aug 28, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
Well well done fellas. Proud. Way proud. I'm heading out to buy a uke tonight! Going to Courtright and climbing something big and scary and I'm already working on lyrics. I dont even know how to play one, but I'm buying one. Guitar Center here I come.
JohnRoe

Trad climber
State College, PA
Aug 28, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
inspirational. Thanks for sharing
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Aug 28, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
That was awesome! Nice job on the climb and a great TR! I love the way you combined the text, photos, and very short video clips.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
Aug 28, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
You guys should climb Mescalito.....very clean.
You'll love it...
yu-min

Big Wall climber
california, san diego
Aug 28, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
captain... or is it skully? Thanks for the suggestion, Mescalito looks incredible. ST says it takes an average of 7 days, what would you give it? Does it get a lot of traffic? it would be great to have a little jam session on a wall one day
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
Aug 28, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
I climbed it in '98 with Ammon. We took 5 days. We used like 5 pins....Had a great time. That's a good route that NEEDS some ukelele action...I guess it's like A2+(whatever that means)...

Oh, BTW, in the Valley, I'm mostly Kaptain Kirk, but in Idaho, I'm all Skully.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Aug 28, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
Pretty badass, I like the TR too!
Kupandamingi

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 28, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
excellent report - truly captured the experience. Loved the near tears video when you got to the top!
Shaft

Boulder climber
SL,UT
Aug 29, 2008 - 12:21am PT
Seems like success hinged upon positive attitudes, humor and a ukulele. Great TR.
yu-min

Big Wall climber
california, san diego
Aug 29, 2008 - 04:14am PT
Sweet, thanks kaptian, will see you in the valley! thanks for the beta, and Thanks everyone else for the rad support!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
Aug 29, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
Yu-min rocks bump...
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Aug 29, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
Hey is that a BD Big Gun harness you're wearing in the pics? If so, how'd you like it? Not many reviews of em out there and I need a new wall harness.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 29, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
YU-Min... I've been thinking about organizing a big wall jam for years... We haul a compressor up to Lay Lady ledge or Gorrilla battery powered amps and a battery powered 8 track up some wall, record the musical event and sell "Bootleg" CD's to raise $ for Skinners museum project. "Brilliant".......
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Aug 29, 2008 - 07:40pm PT

Caught the teaser the other day, just now saw/heard/experienced the whole multi-media affair. Loved it.

Looks like you two have an incredible partnership - that's fun to see come through in the vids.

My favorite moment, the "King Swing - Reality Check". I've felt that! From wild psych and fire to all-consuming despair and fear.
yu-min

Big Wall climber
california, san diego
Aug 29, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
Doooood! a jam on the wall sounds like its gonna have to be put into the making...

OlymicMntBoy, yea its a big gun, i like it a lot! The double belay loops are actually pretty nice when hitching easy daisies on both sides, fifi slips perfectly up the middle. the padding is GREAT and its really not that heavy at all.

Bruce, your totally right about that crashing sensation
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Aug 29, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
The ultimate TR. You did it up right. Bravo!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 30, 2008 - 02:06am PT
top of the list,
lots of fun and wonderful spirit
Terry

climber
Spokane
Aug 30, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
bump
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 1, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
who's with me?
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
Sep 2, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
Way to push it guys, rad!
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Sep 2, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
YEA man! Happened across that a few days ago checking your site. Freaking sweet. Keep at it homeskates.


-Greg
Emon

Trad climber
Sep 2, 2008 - 04:46pm PT
bump--way to go!
David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
Sep 2, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
Most people who climb The Nose echo Harding's humility: the rock seems to be in much better shape than I was. Good humility in the face of the greatness of the route, good style getting back on the horse. Hard to do. I been there.

Congrats.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 3, 2008 - 12:01am PT
hey there.. .this is a wonderful share... congrats to you, yu-min and friend....

say, more power to the ukulele... how sweet...

say, laurel and hardy (old movie clip) tried scaling some huge outdoor staircase with a piano----not good...

ukulele--good...


i hope my computer can view the video of the climb, as i just saw someone mention it... god bless you richly on your next climb... cheers! and good cheer!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 3, 2008 - 12:16am PT
hey there yu-min... say, i went and read the whole trip, and could not yet do the videos.. will try tomorrow when i have more time... but say:

the whole set-up of how you presented the trip did wonders for me... i could picture it better than from other reads and you named each "name" of the spots you stopped at how every thing you spread out, you did in a good solid order for me and my ol' brain... thanks a lot (i am not a climber, but i still love reading and trying to figure out the trails they all do)...

god bless..
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
Sep 3, 2008 - 12:53am PT
Definitely grok it, there, NeeBee......These are the tribesmen.
Monkeys all, they.
yu-min

Big Wall climber
california, san diego
Sep 3, 2008 - 01:26am PT
Thanks everyone!!! Kaptian, are you talking about the monkey crew! Bad ass, heard you guys giving the moose call from up high
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 3, 2008 - 01:38am PT
hey there yu-min... my brother and i had the very same feeling looking up at el cap, when we were kids...

i wonder what must have gone through his mind on his first climb there...

i thought i had heard that he climbed el cap... if he did... he must have felt the same way as you, when he took his first move..


*say, does anyone here, know if mark (chappy) climbed el cap???
and when, and with who...

i just don't have money, so i cant call himmm when i like... :(
yu-min

Big Wall climber
california, san diego
Sep 3, 2008 - 01:47am PT
thanks neebee, dont know mark but hope you find him...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 3, 2008 - 02:07am PT
hey there... yu-min... he is my brother.. he is in california.. and very busy working... so i dont see him much... i missed out on his neat climbing stuff....

he was in yosemite in the 70's?? i reckon it was...

we still keep in touch.. it is just hard cuase i cant call much, due to finances.. etc...



say, keep up the good climbs and post some more stuff, yu-min... i really love your style!
travelin_light

Trad climber
california
Sep 3, 2008 - 02:17am PT
Sweet style guys - way to send! Loved the song about finding the extra gallon of water!
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2008 - 02:48am PT
So its been a little while since yu-min and i came down from El Cap. I know while I was up there I swore that I wouldn't do any more walls as the suffering is too much...but...I want to go up there again!
I guess I have an alpinist's memory in that I forget how the suffering was. Somebody suggested mescalito and we have been looking at the topo. Perhaps a winter ascent of Tangerine Trip? Maybe we can wait until the spring to do the shield???

Pain is temporary, glory is forever (so is stupidity).
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 4, 2008 - 02:52am PT
hey there snowy... oh, MY... i was kind'a feeling the same way about doing novels/writing, and the editing "forever" editing that goes with them... :)


keep on pressing on, but say, deep inside, on either trail, in the end-work, we will be glad... glad it when its over, and glad we are starting out on a new challenge...

oh my... even if we near-abouts vowed we'd never do it...
:)
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
Oct 4, 2008 - 09:33am PT
Hey, Snowey... Mescalito is Grim in Winter...I know some guys that did the Trip in full winter conditions, but they said the top was pretty grim. Zode, maybe, if ya catch a good window.
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