Discussion Topic |
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2008 - 03:45am PT
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Albert (yu-min) and I just got off of the captain after our first wall. It was a ton of suffering and in HINDSIGHT a lot of fun. We are going to call it the FUA of the Nose (First Ukileili Ascent). Full TR with pics and videos available for your enjoyment here:
http://pullharder.org/2008/08/27/the-nose-epicly/
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Aug 28, 2008 - 08:00am PT
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Bravo!
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 28, 2008 - 08:28am PT
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Now that is the standard to be kept in mind when writing trip reports!
I was with you guys for the whole way.
Who remembers to pack a ukelele(sp)? Dang I wish my balalaika hadn't been stolen......
The original music really makes it!
I am inspired, am developing new plans for a repeat ascent...
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Aug 28, 2008 - 10:41am PT
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Awesome! Thanks
e
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Good job, guys!
Now get back down here to your Singing lessons!!!
Rock on......
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:27am PT
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Great trip report thanks for sharing.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:40am PT
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Sweeet!
Thanks for posting.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 28, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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F*#king awesome.
"We had no choice, the only way down was up"
you hauled a Kamaka up the nose!! Could be the first ukulele ascent. Must've had a good hard case.
excellent.
Screw Michael Phelps. indeed.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 28, 2008 - 02:23pm PT
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Wow. Great job guys- on the route and the TR.
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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Aug 28, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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Thanks a lot everyone!!!! The Uke is becoming a tradition on our big walls, always adds a bit of Stoke at some crucial moments. Now, a few days later the pain and suffering has faded from the mind and i think were ready for another rock out on another wall, any suggestions? Oh and good spot on the "Kamaka", the best ukes out there!
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Aug 28, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
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I think that the ukelele has set the standard for wall instrument. Great TR guys. Good effort, and I agree that was a classic line "the only way down was up."
Cheers,
Doug
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 28, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
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Well well done fellas. Proud. Way proud. I'm heading out to buy a uke tonight! Going to Courtright and climbing something big and scary and I'm already working on lyrics. I dont even know how to play one, but I'm buying one. Guitar Center here I come.
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JohnRoe
Trad climber
State College, PA
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Aug 28, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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inspirational. Thanks for sharing
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Aug 28, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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That was awesome! Nice job on the climb and a great TR! I love the way you combined the text, photos, and very short video clips.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 28, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
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You guys should climb Mescalito.....very clean.
You'll love it...
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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Aug 28, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
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captain... or is it skully? Thanks for the suggestion, Mescalito looks incredible. ST says it takes an average of 7 days, what would you give it? Does it get a lot of traffic? it would be great to have a little jam session on a wall one day
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 28, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
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I climbed it in '98 with Ammon. We took 5 days. We used like 5 pins....Had a great time. That's a good route that NEEDS some ukelele action...I guess it's like A2+(whatever that means)...
Oh, BTW, in the Valley, I'm mostly Kaptain Kirk, but in Idaho, I'm all Skully.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 28, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
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Pretty badass, I like the TR too!
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 28, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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excellent report - truly captured the experience. Loved the near tears video when you got to the top!
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Shaft
Boulder climber
SL,UT
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Aug 29, 2008 - 12:21am PT
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Seems like success hinged upon positive attitudes, humor and a ukulele. Great TR.
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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Aug 29, 2008 - 04:14am PT
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Sweet, thanks kaptian, will see you in the valley! thanks for the beta, and Thanks everyone else for the rad support!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
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Yu-min rocks bump...
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Aug 29, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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Hey is that a BD Big Gun harness you're wearing in the pics? If so, how'd you like it? Not many reviews of em out there and I need a new wall harness.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 29, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
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YU-Min... I've been thinking about organizing a big wall jam for years... We haul a compressor up to Lay Lady ledge or Gorrilla battery powered amps and a battery powered 8 track up some wall, record the musical event and sell "Bootleg" CD's to raise $ for Skinners museum project. "Brilliant".......
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 29, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Caught the teaser the other day, just now saw/heard/experienced the whole multi-media affair. Loved it.
Looks like you two have an incredible partnership - that's fun to see come through in the vids.
My favorite moment, the "King Swing - Reality Check". I've felt that! From wild psych and fire to all-consuming despair and fear.
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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Aug 29, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
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Doooood! a jam on the wall sounds like its gonna have to be put into the making...
OlymicMntBoy, yea its a big gun, i like it a lot! The double belay loops are actually pretty nice when hitching easy daisies on both sides, fifi slips perfectly up the middle. the padding is GREAT and its really not that heavy at all.
Bruce, your totally right about that crashing sensation
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Aug 29, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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The ultimate TR. You did it up right. Bravo!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 30, 2008 - 02:06am PT
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top of the list,
lots of fun and wonderful spirit
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Terry
climber
Spokane
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Aug 30, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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bump
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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who's with me?
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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YEA man! Happened across that a few days ago checking your site. Freaking sweet. Keep at it homeskates.
-Greg
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Emon
Trad climber
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bump--way to go!
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Most people who climb The Nose echo Harding's humility: the rock seems to be in much better shape than I was. Good humility in the face of the greatness of the route, good style getting back on the horse. Hard to do. I been there.
Congrats.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there.. .this is a wonderful share... congrats to you, yu-min and friend....
say, more power to the ukulele... how sweet...
say, laurel and hardy (old movie clip) tried scaling some huge outdoor staircase with a piano----not good...
ukulele--good...
i hope my computer can view the video of the climb, as i just saw someone mention it... god bless you richly on your next climb... cheers! and good cheer!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there yu-min... say, i went and read the whole trip, and could not yet do the videos.. will try tomorrow when i have more time... but say:
the whole set-up of how you presented the trip did wonders for me... i could picture it better than from other reads and you named each "name" of the spots you stopped at how every thing you spread out, you did in a good solid order for me and my ol' brain... thanks a lot (i am not a climber, but i still love reading and trying to figure out the trails they all do)...
god bless..
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Definitely grok it, there, NeeBee......These are the tribesmen.
Monkeys all, they.
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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Thanks everyone!!! Kaptian, are you talking about the monkey crew! Bad ass, heard you guys giving the moose call from up high
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there yu-min... my brother and i had the very same feeling looking up at el cap, when we were kids...
i wonder what must have gone through his mind on his first climb there...
i thought i had heard that he climbed el cap... if he did... he must have felt the same way as you, when he took his first move..
*say, does anyone here, know if mark (chappy) climbed el cap???
and when, and with who...
i just don't have money, so i cant call himmm when i like... :(
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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thanks neebee, dont know mark but hope you find him...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there... yu-min... he is my brother.. he is in california.. and very busy working... so i dont see him much... i missed out on his neat climbing stuff....
he was in yosemite in the 70's?? i reckon it was...
we still keep in touch.. it is just hard cuase i cant call much, due to finances.. etc...
say, keep up the good climbs and post some more stuff, yu-min... i really love your style!
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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Sweet style guys - way to send! Loved the song about finding the extra gallon of water!
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2008 - 02:48am PT
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So its been a little while since yu-min and i came down from El Cap. I know while I was up there I swore that I wouldn't do any more walls as the suffering is too much...but...I want to go up there again!
I guess I have an alpinist's memory in that I forget how the suffering was. Somebody suggested mescalito and we have been looking at the topo. Perhaps a winter ascent of Tangerine Trip? Maybe we can wait until the spring to do the shield???
Pain is temporary, glory is forever (so is stupidity).
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there snowy... oh, MY... i was kind'a feeling the same way about doing novels/writing, and the editing "forever" editing that goes with them... :)
keep on pressing on, but say, deep inside, on either trail, in the end-work, we will be glad... glad it when its over, and glad we are starting out on a new challenge...
oh my... even if we near-abouts vowed we'd never do it...
:)
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
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Hey, Snowey... Mescalito is Grim in Winter...I know some guys that did the Trip in full winter conditions, but they said the top was pretty grim. Zode, maybe, if ya catch a good window.
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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