Photos showing the various states of Dana Couloir

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 23, 2008 - 03:12pm PT

William McConachie just sent me some great photos of the Dana Couloir that I posted on the newly created route page:

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hidadana

They show the variable conditions the route between june and august.

here are a few of the photos here:

June 2008:

August 2008:

10b4me

climber

the gray bands

Aug 24, 2008 - 12:43pm PT

guess I won't be climbing that this year.

marky

climber

Aug 24, 2008 - 03:41pm PT

it looks perfect in the June photo: water ice on the left and presumably neve in the middle. I've climbed this only in september and october, and had pretty good conditions. But the August photo looks utterly wretched.

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Arid-zona

Aug 24, 2008 - 05:25pm PT

Dirt is the new ice confirm/deny

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 07:06pm PT

june is the new october

Mar'

Trad climber

Santa Fe, NM

Aug 24, 2008 - 08:01pm PT

Gee, I wonder why you didn't show us a picture of the Mendel Couloir, Chris. That would be denial!

marky

climber

Aug 24, 2008 - 08:04pm PT

June: WI2
August: M2

poop_tube

Big Wall climber

33° 45' N 117° 52' W

Aug 25, 2008 - 12:21pm PT

I have pics of mendel from this year. LOTS of stuff shooting down when we were there. Too dangerous to climb. Conness glacier is nearly gone. And the ice on north peak is waaaay thinner than last year. Do people not realize this?

Rockhopper

Sport climber

California

Aug 26, 2008 - 04:23pm PT

All,

This is what many of the snow/ice routes look like in the Sierras now.

I was just in the Palisades, climbed Sill and looked at the Palisade glacier. Very sad, the Palisade glacier is going fast, and it was a spectacular glacier for California.

To climb mount Sill, all the route guides talk about bring crampons. There is no snow/ice to climb sill. It all disapeared a long time ago (late June this year?). And we are left with crud where there once was a nice snow and ice approach. For anyone going to do Sill, bring the approach shoes, forget about the ice ax/crampons.

I remember doing a complete traverse of the palisade glacier 4 years ago around this time and it was beautiful. Now the glacier is in full retreat.

I hate to say it, but this is the sign of the future.......