Matterhorn Peak (Short TR)


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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2008 - 01:05am PT
So we climbed Matterhorn in early August. This was my first real alpine roped climb. It was a great climb in a great location. This climb was done with my friend of the same name - Alex.

We hiked in the afternoon before the day we were to climb. The approach was definitely steep! Here is the peak from just above the lower lake. You can clearly see the Double Dihedrals.

Here is a closer shot of the peak from the cirque below it. The glacier doesn’t look very big, but it is bigger than it looks. Walking along the rocks below the glacier, we noticed that there was actually more glacier below the rocks.

Our camp was situated on a huge flat rock that was a perfect base camp.

We had an amazing sunset that night!

We woke up and started the final approach about 7ish. I am obviously not a morning person!

The route we intended on doing was the North Arete. In retrospect, we must have started the route higher than we should have but it worked out okay. At the end of the first pitch, I set up a belay on the aręte. From here, Alex led up the aręte and around to the right side of the aręte. I then took the lead on pitch three. I got up about half a rope’s length and realized I was looking at the second dihedral of the Double Dihedral route. I realized that I needed to go back to the aręte to get on route, but I just couldn’t resist climbing the dihedral! I made it about half way up the dihedral and set up a belay. Here is Alex following the pitch.

I then led up the rest of the dihedral and then onto the face moves. I guess the face is rated 5.8, but it was not real hard, just exposed. This took me to the top of the false summit which you see in all the pictures of the mountain. Here’s the view from this point.

From here, Alex led the next two pitches of easy climbing to the real summit. This is him on top.

The view was great from the top. You could see Conness and Dana. I think that North Peak and the Cathedral Range are hiding just out of the picture. The Conness glacier is quite visible here.

The descent was uneventful, but here is the parting shot.

A great climb!! We basically combined the North Arete with the Double Dihedral route. The climbing on this mountain was really fun with inspiring views!

Dingus Milktoast

Aug 21, 2008 - 01:12am PT
Dude I SO KNOW that flat rock!

Jason the Canuk after our ascent of DD and N Arete combined. We did it from the car - he wasn't looking forward to the hike out.

Russ Walling

Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
Aug 21, 2008 - 02:31am PT
bump for the good stuff
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 21, 2008 - 02:38am PT
good show Alex²

been meaning to get up that one sometime

I have no clue
Aug 21, 2008 - 08:41am PT
Glacier started at the flat rock if I remember correctly.

Trad climber
East Side, California
Aug 21, 2008 - 09:04am PT
Nice TR. North Peak is in your photo, it is the first peak north (viewer's left) of Conness...

Ice climber
Aug 21, 2008 - 10:19am PT
Good job !
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Aug 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!


Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Aug 21, 2008 - 11:15am PT
Looks like a great trip. Nice job.

What's that huge cave-looking slot on the formation to the picture-left of Matterhorn?

Trad climber
Aug 21, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
Nice tr-- one of the classics I've never done.

Several years ago I hiked in despite dubious weather and was on the start of the route when the lightening started. Honestly, I wasn't that unhappy-- it felt chossier and a bit more intimidating than most of the other routes that I like.

Maybe this will motivate me to return with a rope and a partner.
handsome B

Gym climber
Aug 21, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
nice work!

thanks for the TR

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 21, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
good stuff, the to-do list never stops growing!

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 21, 2008 - 03:09pm PT

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Aug 21, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
Wow! Did a route, maybe the same one, on Matterhorn Peak back in 1970 or '71 with PhantomX when we were 14 year olds. I hadn't seen it or pictures of it since. Beautiful pics.

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2008 - 04:16pm PT
bluering: Yeah that cave looking thing was an uber-wide tunnel thingie. It looked pretty awesome, but I didn't inspect it real close. Probably much harder than I can climb!

bearbnz: Thats cool! I wasn't sure quite where North Peak was. Thanks for clarifying. I've gotta get up that one of these days too!

klk: Yeah you should definitely return. I didn't find much of it too chossy. Maybe a little in the beginning but the two pitches we did on the DD route were more than worth it!

Ed: Yeah you used the Alex2. Awesome! We've been shortening it to A2.

How the heck do I get the superscript function to work here? The basic HTML method is not working!
Dingus Milktoast

Aug 21, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
There are trolls and orcs up there in that cave. Believe.


Social climber
Aug 23, 2008 - 02:14am PT
hey there alex and all....

ooooooooooooo.... i love the matterhorn.... course, i dont climb or even travel... but say, i love that ol' webcam sunrise and sunset (live from zermot)....

really, i do love looking at the mountain, the range, and the area... thanks for a really nice share of your matterhorn trip... great stuff.... feels so fresh and inspiring, from those pics, too....

congrats on your climb....

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 23, 2008 - 03:11am PT
anyone notice that massive rock slide zone in one of the middle landscape pics. gnar


Mountain climber
Aug 23, 2008 - 04:37am PT
Thanks for the TR. Those pics make me pissed I'm sitting here on my fat A instead of out there. Was over there in Yo this past may but I didn't get out of the valley. This climb in spring reminds me of Mt. Humphreys. I gotta get out there and do it sometime.

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2008 - 03:52pm PT
Dude, I hadn't noticed that slide......that's pretty sweet!

Aug 23, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
yer gettin after it! nice! whats on the plate for labor day weekend?

munge, good catch, that there is big.

Trad climber
Aug 23, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
strong work y'all

Social climber
Feb 25, 2009 - 08:38am PT
hey there... bump for the matterhorn...


great picture to start it off with, beautiful!
scuffy b

just below the San Andreas
Feb 25, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
Hey, cool report. Can anybody tell the location of that big

Inking the deal at Ralph Spoilsport Motors
Feb 25, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
That's the famous Slide on Slide Mountain in Slide Canyon. First reported in 1894.

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jun 30, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
Walleye, hey I appreciate the history there.
Ain't that something, the report more than a 100 years old!!


DMT, it sounds like you and your partner did both the DD and the NA in one push c2c, is that right?

If so, Wow! helluva day!!!!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Jul 1, 2014 - 10:30am PT
I love to repeat read good TR's and bumpem to the top of the topo.

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 1, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
Hey alpine aficionados, is this about right?

Credit: Alex

Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

Lead question is if peak labeled "Virginia Peak" is actually Twin Peak(s). With maybe Virginia Peak behind it?

Much appreciated, thanks!

Social climber
Jul 1, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
Climbed it with my mom last year in a day. Tied with Mithril Dihedral for the most hiking for least climbing I'd done in my life :P haha. Great summit!
Matterhorn Peak July 2013 <br/>
Matterhorn Peak July 2013

Credit: GDavis

Social climber
Feb 20, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
hey there say, bump... :)
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