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Llama
Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
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Aug 21, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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alas, my blaster is not currently equiped to handle the compact disc =(
It is certainly quite capable of lending to the chaotic atmosphere up there, however, and takes 6 D batteries I believe. But I shall continue the hunt for the perfect blaster of ghettoness...
one with CD and HOPEFULLY RCA aux inputs for the pod
Back on topic...
Billy, find someone who knows what's up locally and beg them to teach you the required systems (at least the basics) and gear placements (again basic as there is much time required to learn the nuances). The begging may involve purchasing a lot of beer and cheap, yummy food. It will all be worth it though.
Also note that when people say LF is probably the easiest El Cap route... understand that it is STILL AN EL CAP ROUTE!!! Easy is an exteremely relative term in the arena of climbing.
I would agree that for it's straightforwardness, LF is possibly the "easiest" route up the Cap though it has one of the worst approaches.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Aug 21, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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Billy 1 chick, 8 beers, an hour to learn to tie in and belay, and a ride will get you up Cathedral (one of our largest local routes...) They arent lying to you. you have my email. . .
She better be cute!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 21, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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"it has one of the worst approaches"
The approach isn't *that* bad. As you said about the difficulty of the route, It IS El Cap, after all. All of the approaches on El Cap are cake. I did the approach to LF with Fred Beckey a couple of years ago and he's in his mid-eighties...
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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Aug 22, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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"it has one of the worst approaches"
Yes for El Cap. Iv'e checked the route out from the bottom
however the Nose 5.10 version has always been my goal at 4
days and three nights.
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Llama
Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
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Aug 22, 2008 - 03:30pm PT
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Yes approach is bad for El Cap... it's not bad by Valley standards... just for El Cap
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 22, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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My point was that there's not really a bad approach in the valley, period. Sheesh! HD, Watkins, Liberty, etc. are a little off the beaten path, but still relatively close to the road. But any approach on EC is pretty tame.
If you guys are thinking the approach to LF is hard/bad, maybe you should stick to sport climbing or bouldering? Sack up, ya wankers! BWAHAHAHA :)
edit: I'm pretty sure I bitched a least part of the way up to Dihedral and LF, when wearing haulbags tho. Dihedral is a ways up there too.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Billy, if you're doing this just to prove something to yourself, that's an OK motivation...not the best one, just OK...but you should know that the single most important quality for topping out on El Cap is perserverance. You just keep going.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Apparently....
Billy has left the building....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 10, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
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Life up here in the Great White North is pretty kaotic - I'm training hard for my next wall, standing in the garage fondling gear and drinking a beer.
Paging Billy!
Can you hear it? Nothin' but crickets ...
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