| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2008 - 09:24am PT
|
Once again this year, The Doctor and I have been busy new-routing in Sedona. In the last few months we have put up 5 new routes, extended a route by two bolts, and have 6 & 7 in the works.
The Doctor's Office is in a narrow slot canyon, the walls rising to 250 feet on either side. A view from up canyon:
Following the wash up from Oak Creek, the coolness of the air from the slot canyon is a welcome respite from the desert heat.
The entry:
Due to the cooler conditions, the flora is strikingly different:
It was 9:30 AM, and already 85 degrees in Sedona when we arrived to an almost chilly 60 degrees at the Office. The group included my friend Cody, his friend Savin, the Doctor and myself. Cody was interested in checking out the "new area" so we offered to give them the tour. A break in the monsoon season allowed for perfect summer conditions at the "coolest summer crag in Arizona".
This year I put up 3 new routes in the "Reception" area (the entry), so we decided to warm up there. "Cool reception" is a fun .10b, Savin climbing:
We all took a run then moved 1 foot to the right and climbed "BP Cuff", a really good .11b dihedral capped by a roof move. Cody on lead:
First crux move:
Fun skinny dihedral climbing:
Chillin' in the shade:
The next route was "Unlicensed Practitioner", a 4-bolt .11d that is fun and friendly. 5.10 climbing to a two-move crux. I worked out the crux moves and hope to send next time. The boys had a hard time with it, and the Doctor made it look easy as usual.
We then headed up into the Doctor's Office proper, pointing out the routes, left to right: Shock Doc/.12c,Melonoma/.11d, No Appt Necessay/.11d, and The Short Assistant/.11c.
I thought it might be better to go to "The pharmacy" and let them sample some of the easier routes there, so we climbed the 20-foot "Iron Rod", a 5.8 stem move to a rebar via ferrata, that gains access to the cliffs above. This ladder was put in by the Rodman. View down to the second level (Dr's Office), Rich climbing "Short Assistant" in background:
And Cody coming up the ladder:
We all got on "Free Refills" a 95-foot 5.10b that will flash-pump you like nobody's business. A 50 foot arete leads to a traverse, then another 45 feet of slightly overhanging face-climbing on amazing features. Cody on lead:
The Doctor on "Side Effects", his new .12a:
The Doctor and I left at that point, making a few suggestions for the lads, and headed back into the heat.
I have recently posted all of the new routes on Mountain Project, here's the link:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/the_doctors_office__the_pharmacy/106174829
Also, I have recently drawn up topo's for the area:
Erik
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
AWESOME!
|
|
Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
|
|
All I can say is WOW,what a beautiful area
|
|
Blinny
Trad climber
I'm not Mark Blanchard
|
|
ShitInZeeHatInZee!
Whoa.
The Doctor is IN!
ox
Fake
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Blinny
The DR is ON!
MisterE--you guys were sure HOT in that cool canyon!
|
|
Ouch!
climber
|
|
Those are great pictures.
|
|
Sewellymon
climber
.....in a single wide......
|
|
STELLAR!!!
p.s.- where's the Fun Police? You guys are having a way too good time....
|
|
L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
|
|
Wow Erik--Nice job!
The features on that rock are incredibly beautiful--especially the Doctor's 12 project.
That arete you guys were warming up on (11b warm-up--hahaha!) looked like a great time, too. And all in the coolness of a slot...you sure do know where to climb.
(I didn't notice any suffering going on...was that because Mikey Layton wasn't around?);-)
|
|
L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
|
|
I did, however, notice the Doctor sitting on a very nice pack...
|
|
Standing Strong
Trad climber
sunlight on the surf
|
|
p.s. that backpack is cooler than dora the explorer's talking backpack
|
|
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!