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clustiere
Big Wall climber
Running Springs
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Oct 24, 2003 - 10:21pm PT
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yummy
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Oct 24, 2003 - 11:23pm PT
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Pretty darn sweet!
Yup, and even better to drill on...
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thebravecowboy
climber
my pals call me Shackleton
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a genetic blend of a limpet and a gecko, with a hanger shaped shell. After a few weeks it wanders off by itself and decomposes.
alright we're well into the future, now where is my #3 limpet-gecko?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Bump of the century award!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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do whatever you want, life is short, and humans will be gone from the earth in another thousand years do to warming or global conflict,
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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do whatever you want, life is short, and humans will be gone from the earth in another thousand years do to warming or global conflict,
But whatever you do dont clean up and bolt some unknown pitch of climbing in S AZ that hasnt been done for 20 years. Having fun is not cool at all.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Ha ha ha, Skip for the win!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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having assembled a vast stack of limpet-geckos, articulated chocks and micro-sized chocks, and the like, I gotta say, I bought some Tomahawks and I am pretty excited about that hammer.
So yes, I have reached that sad sad point of desperation where I am convincing myself that it is indeed acceptable to nail sandstone. yikes.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Sandstone should be nailed thoughtfully, with the admission that you are creating a clean placement.
Some FAs have to be nailed, but those routes only have so many nailed ascents in them.
TokerVillan would know . . .
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Is it ever ok to nail on sandstone?
Yes but make sure to put down a blanket or you'll thrash your knees.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Some FAs have to be nailed, but those routes only have so many nailed ascents in them.
I could say the same thing about granite, just with a longer gestation period before the hammer becomes unnecessary unless something fixed pulls. Now, back in the late 1960's, having nailed "A4" cracks locally that resembled the classic early ascents of Cleopatra's Needle (i.e., the crack is deeper than the pin, but the pin grinds out no matter how hard you drive it), I wonder if the "leave it alone if you love the formation" people may have a point after all.
I know CMac's post is old now, but I suspect that if the route will actually hold beaks, blades, etc., it's probably solid enough for the placements to evolve into either clean or fixed head placements, assuming enough people want to climb the route. If they don't, does it really matter?
And congrats to Skip for what is easily my favorite post so far on this thread.
John
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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^lame deletion above
shame this thread got so beat out.
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couchmaster
climber
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Last time I Tomahawked some local "harder than the hubs of hell" Andesite (superthin, unclimbed crack), I saw enough damage that I felt (slightly) guilty. Can't imagine doing it to sandstone. I thought Ron Olvesky had it right, nail if you have to and try with all your might to make it so it will take a nut and be a clean placement for those who follow as you clean the iron. We were not able to "constructively scar" that rock in one lead, but maybe 2 or 3 more leads with hawks and beaks, if people are thinking about it and all working that way, and there will be some nice tiny nut placements forming.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 14, 2018 - 10:41am PT
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2016 AAJ, Ivins Mtn., Zion:
Our route...required moderately difficult nailing. The first pitch required a combination of 16 tied-off knifeblades and beaks in addition to other pins and cams. [...]......we made use of tied-off bushes.[....] ....We left no trace except for a two-piton rappel anchor, and when we used trees or bushes to rappel we left no slings. We did not drill. .....
...TF? apparently I've been doing my LNT all-fuggin'-wrong.
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