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TW#T
Gym climber
san diego, ca
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like stated at the start of this post, coarse and buggy is hands down the best corner pitch you will do. In fact headin out right now to go do it. Are you bringing the tupperware or should I Karl?
adios fellas, have a great day climbing
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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EVER? puh-leeze. There are so very many. Like that one Dean plunges off of on the BD website. Having just returned from Indian Creek, I can think of one or two...
I think El Mat is 2 corners, strictly speaking :)
Coarse and Buggy is indeed a nice pitch, but to call it among the best ever... you've been in the little piles too long, my friend. That thing is like 42 feet tall.
How about OUTSIDE corners?
--Angels Arete, New River Gorge
--Defcon 5, T-Wall
--Swanson's Arete, Sunrider, Naked Edge, Northwest Corner, etc etc... Eldo, land of a zillion corners
--That Greg Child route on the Priest looks pretty spectacular.
--Let 'Er Buck, Donnelly Canyon
Seems like sandstone offers the cragger many many corners, of both types. Arapiles comes to mind. But there's nothing like those upper pitches on the Muir or the Nose. I guess those are only in the Top 5 list if you do them in one pitch, though....
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Fear of Flying, Phantom Spires ... beautiful
East Corner (2nd pitch), Lovers Leap...great fun climbing in corner, then A0 the crux.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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2nd pitch of Coffin Nail at Tahquitz!! Suuuuper classic 5.8 corner to a small roof.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Tahquitz
Open Book , Obviously!
1st pitch of Fingertrip to El Camino Real,
Consolation, A completely unique corner configuration for the crux.
NE Face West. 4-6 pitches of cruiser fairly continuous 5.6 corner.
Needles
Third pitch of WPOD, Voodoo Dome as well as Spook Book.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Enduro Pitch, Astroman
Lyback pitch, Good Book
Green Arch, Tahquitz
Last pitch, New Dimensions
Catchy Corner
High Pressure
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Catchy Corner!!! oh yeah. prefect laybacking in a corner.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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In order of excellance:
1. Moratorium (5.11b)
2. The Good Book (5.10d) did it twice, once before rock fall
and once just after (had to wipe off fine powder from every
hold.) Took 30' fall head first on this one.
3. Coarse and Buggy (5.11) Onsight
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Oh yeah, forgot...
4. Oz (5.10d) in Toulumne
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jan
Trad climber
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how about this one:
http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/yosemite/muirfeature/muir_image_p23.htm
off course we did not even come close to free it, but it's a pretty good looking dihedral.
in the realm of free routes around .9/.10-, which is what i can do on a good day, hospital corner tops the all time list of dihedral climbs. but that one has already got a fair bit of recognition on this thread, so here's some maybe lesser known corners of reasonble quality in the middle grades:
the crux moves on super pooper (tahquitz) are amazing. more finesse than brute force.
crescent arch (tuolumne) starts as a corner...
NW corner on north early winter spires (north cascades) is a mighty fine dihedral, albeit a bit wide on the crux pitches.
double exposure (skaha) is a most entertaining trad outing up a weirdly leaning corner in the midst of thousands of clip-ups, sporting awkward balance and, yes, sheer double exposure.
caboose (squamish) is a sustained clean cut corner that certainly gets harder as the forearm burn gets worse.
la luna nascente (italy), see here:
http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/misc%20areas/lunanascente1.htm
motorhead (grimsel pass, switzerland), 16 pitches of which more than half follows a series of thin, hard corners on some of the cleanest, most esthetic granite in europe. remember this route; worth the plane ticket in itself.
and a harder one that i climbed when i was younger and stronger:
cornflake crack (looking glass) is a henry barber test piece somewhere in n carolina featuring a tour the force first pitch and a calf burning stemming crux up higher.
jan
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan, my partner Gary noted that my lead of Cresent Arch had the highest "watch me" quotient of any climb we had ever done together. A corner indeed.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Another top competitor for 10- range corners: p4 of Silk Road, Cal Dome
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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split pillar, squamish.
the circle pitch on Zodiac is beautiful as well.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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No particular order;
Hollywood and vine, Deto
The Good book
Quarter of a Man
Bomberos Away, Camelback Mtn
The Enduro Corner a-man
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timmy_t
Trad climber
Fort Fun, Colorado
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Just about all Devils Tower has is amazing corners. Broken tree is another classic on it, Durrance is classic just to think when and how Jack Durrance climbed it way back when too. I'll second Assemblyline, and Soler too. So many still to do there!!!!
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Slab-Dyno
Trad climber
Dublin, PA
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-"Fingers in a Lightsocket" - Supercrack Buttress
-Second pitch of "Astro-Elephant" on The Elephant's Perch in Idaho
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Tough to list just five...
In the valley I enjoyed La Cosita (right) and La Escuala.
I have not climbed many of the classic valley corner pitches however.
My outside the valley favorites are:
Mayflower 5.9 (Paradise Forks)
Torpedo 5.10+ (really a double corner at PF)
On the Edge 5.11 (Paradise Forks)
Davison's Dihedral 5.11++ (Paradise Forks)
P3 of Mars Attacks! 5.8 (Sedona)
P1 of the Apache Route 5.9+ (Sedona)
P1 of Genesis 5.10- (Sedona)
Follow your Bliss 5.10- (Sedona)
P5 of Coyote Tower 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Earth Angel 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or C1 (Zion)
P1 of the North Chimney 5.9- (Castleton)
This list could go on for a while... Someone cut me off, please!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Good Book
Oz
Open Book
Last pitch of the Yawn, Have to agree with Swellymon on this one. For those of you who haven't done this TM classic, check it out. Old school for sure.
29 Palms, while not as good as many of many of listed on this thread, still Josh worthy
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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You mean the 5.7 corner on the Yawn right? That's the second to last pitch 'cause there's another not so memorable pitch to the top of Medlicott. Classic route for sure.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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I haven't tried most of the ones that you guys are posting, so I certainly have no experience to pick the 5 best ever, but here are five good ones...
1. Braille Book
2. Dagger
3. Catchy Corner
4. Meat Grinder
5. The stemming pitch on the RR on Lower Cathedral
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