Top 5 Corner Pitches Ever!


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Gym climber
san diego, ca
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:47am PT
like stated at the start of this post, coarse and buggy is hands down the best corner pitch you will do. In fact headin out right now to go do it. Are you bringing the tupperware or should I Karl?

adios fellas, have a great day climbing

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:56am PT
EVER? puh-leeze. There are so very many. Like that one Dean plunges off of on the BD website. Having just returned from Indian Creek, I can think of one or two...

I think El Mat is 2 corners, strictly speaking :)

Coarse and Buggy is indeed a nice pitch, but to call it among the best ever... you've been in the little piles too long, my friend. That thing is like 42 feet tall.

How about OUTSIDE corners?

--Angels Arete, New River Gorge

--Defcon 5, T-Wall

--Swanson's Arete, Sunrider, Naked Edge, Northwest Corner, etc etc... Eldo, land of a zillion corners

--That Greg Child route on the Priest looks pretty spectacular.

--Let 'Er Buck, Donnelly Canyon

Seems like sandstone offers the cragger many many corners, of both types. Arapiles comes to mind. But there's nothing like those upper pitches on the Muir or the Nose. I guess those are only in the Top 5 list if you do them in one pitch, though....

mark miller

Social climber
Mar 5, 2005 - 11:56am PT
Fear of Flying, Phantom Spires ... beautiful

East Corner (2nd pitch), Lovers Leap...great fun climbing in corner, then A0 the crux.
Spinmaster K-Rove

Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
Mar 5, 2005 - 01:01pm PT
2nd pitch of Coffin Nail at Tahquitz!! Suuuuper classic 5.8 corner to a small roof.

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 5, 2005 - 02:27pm PT
Open Book , Obviously!
1st pitch of Fingertrip to El Camino Real,
Consolation, A completely unique corner configuration for the crux.
NE Face West. 4-6 pitches of cruiser fairly continuous 5.6 corner.

Third pitch of WPOD, Voodoo Dome as well as Spook Book.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 5, 2005 - 02:58pm PT
Enduro Pitch, Astroman
Lyback pitch, Good Book
Green Arch, Tahquitz
Last pitch, New Dimensions
Catchy Corner
High Pressure

Social climber
N. California
Mar 5, 2005 - 03:41pm PT
Catchy Corner!!! oh yeah. prefect laybacking in a corner.

Trad climber
Mar 5, 2005 - 09:49pm PT
In order of excellance:
1. Moratorium (5.11b)
2. The Good Book (5.10d) did it twice, once before rock fall
and once just after (had to wipe off fine powder from every
hold.) Took 30' fall head first on this one.
3. Coarse and Buggy (5.11) Onsight

Trad climber
Mar 5, 2005 - 09:51pm PT
Oh yeah, forgot...

4. Oz (5.10d) in Toulumne

Trad climber
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:23pm PT
how about this one:

off course we did not even come close to free it, but it's a pretty good looking dihedral.

in the realm of free routes around .9/.10-, which is what i can do on a good day, hospital corner tops the all time list of dihedral climbs. but that one has already got a fair bit of recognition on this thread, so here's some maybe lesser known corners of reasonble quality in the middle grades:

the crux moves on super pooper (tahquitz) are amazing. more finesse than brute force.

crescent arch (tuolumne) starts as a corner...

NW corner on north early winter spires (north cascades) is a mighty fine dihedral, albeit a bit wide on the crux pitches.

double exposure (skaha) is a most entertaining trad outing up a weirdly leaning corner in the midst of thousands of clip-ups, sporting awkward balance and, yes, sheer double exposure.

caboose (squamish) is a sustained clean cut corner that certainly gets harder as the forearm burn gets worse.

la luna nascente (italy), see here:

motorhead (grimsel pass, switzerland), 16 pitches of which more than half follows a series of thin, hard corners on some of the cleanest, most esthetic granite in europe. remember this route; worth the plane ticket in itself.

and a harder one that i climbed when i was younger and stronger:

cornflake crack (looking glass) is a henry barber test piece somewhere in n carolina featuring a tour the force first pitch and a calf burning stemming crux up higher.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 6, 2005 - 01:05am PT
Jan, my partner Gary noted that my lead of Cresent Arch had the highest "watch me" quotient of any climb we had ever done together. A corner indeed.
Greg Barnes

Mar 6, 2005 - 01:32am PT
Another top competitor for 10- range corners: p4 of Silk Road, Cal Dome

Big Wall climber
Mar 6, 2005 - 02:31pm PT
split pillar, squamish.
the circle pitch on Zodiac is beautiful as well.

Social climber
The West
Mar 6, 2005 - 03:59pm PT
No particular order;
Hollywood and vine, Deto
The Good book
Quarter of a Man
Bomberos Away, Camelback Mtn
The Enduro Corner a-man

Trad climber
Fort Fun, Colorado
Mar 6, 2005 - 06:37pm PT
Just about all Devils Tower has is amazing corners. Broken tree is another classic on it, Durrance is classic just to think when and how Jack Durrance climbed it way back when too. I'll second Assemblyline, and Soler too. So many still to do there!!!!

Trad climber
Dublin, PA
Mar 6, 2005 - 10:43pm PT
-"Fingers in a Lightsocket" - Supercrack Buttress
-Second pitch of "Astro-Elephant" on The Elephant's Perch in Idaho

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 7, 2005 - 12:02pm PT

Tough to list just five...

In the valley I enjoyed La Cosita (right) and La Escuala.
I have not climbed many of the classic valley corner pitches however.

My outside the valley favorites are:

Mayflower 5.9 (Paradise Forks)
Torpedo 5.10+ (really a double corner at PF)
On the Edge 5.11 (Paradise Forks)
Davison's Dihedral 5.11++ (Paradise Forks)
P3 of Mars Attacks! 5.8 (Sedona)
P1 of the Apache Route 5.9+ (Sedona)
P1 of Genesis 5.10- (Sedona)
Follow your Bliss 5.10- (Sedona)
P5 of Coyote Tower 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Earth Angel 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or C1 (Zion)
P1 of the North Chimney 5.9- (Castleton)

This list could go on for a while... Someone cut me off, please!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 7, 2005 - 02:19pm PT
Good Book
Open Book
Last pitch of the Yawn, Have to agree with Swellymon on this one. For those of you who haven't done this TM classic, check it out. Old school for sure.
29 Palms, while not as good as many of many of listed on this thread, still Josh worthy

Social climber
Mar 7, 2005 - 02:25pm PT
You mean the 5.7 corner on the Yawn right? That's the second to last pitch 'cause there's another not so memorable pitch to the top of Medlicott. Classic route for sure.

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Mar 7, 2005 - 02:26pm PT
I haven't tried most of the ones that you guys are posting, so I certainly have no experience to pick the 5 best ever, but here are five good ones...

1. Braille Book
2. Dagger
3. Catchy Corner
4. Meat Grinder
5. The stemming pitch on the RR on Lower Cathedral
Messages 21 - 40 of total 134 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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