Top 5 Corner Pitches Ever!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 134 of total 134 in this topic
Towshab

climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2005 - 04:14pm PT
The first AMAZING corner I did was Course and Buggy out at JT. Now I'm addicted and was wandering what everyone else's favorite corners are.
smidogg

Trad climber
berkeley
Mar 4, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
Hospital Corner
Lovers Leap, CA
One of the best corners I have ever done
Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal

Sport climber
Boald'r Effin See Oh
Mar 4, 2005 - 04:20pm PT
Man....you remember Clinton Corners?..from Carter Country?...man that was awesome. I laughed my ass off.
bwancy1

Trad climber
Mar 4, 2005 - 04:23pm PT
Corrugation Corner - Lovers Leap
Hobbit Book - Tuolumne

World Class....
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 4, 2005 - 04:24pm PT
Oz is a corner, right? The parts of it that are gets my vote (even if James did go f*#k it up ;-)
Mungeclimber

Social climber
N. California
Mar 4, 2005 - 04:34pm PT
Great White Book, TM

Haven't done it, but Enduro on Astroman has got to be in top 5

El Matador on DT, haven't done it either.

Clayman

Trad climber
CA
Mar 4, 2005 - 04:43pm PT
Enduro Corner- amazing

Hospital Corner-killer

Coarse and Buggy- thin! took a nice whipper off the crux, undercling, pulled 2 pieces!

OZ-whole route is killer, especially that corner pitch

Sunshine dihedral at Smith Rocks looks really cool




Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 4, 2005 - 05:01pm PT
Good Book (Shame that it's dicey now with rockfall danger)

Moratorium

OZ

Bircheff-Williams first pitch

Course and Buggy

Peace

Karl
Clayman

Trad climber
CA
Mar 4, 2005 - 05:21pm PT
yeh moritorium! forgot that one. havent done the rostrum yet, but moritorium is my favorite route in the valley.
Good Morning!

climber
Prescott, AZ
Mar 4, 2005 - 05:44pm PT
Devils Tower abounds with fabulous 'corners'. My favorites:

Soler 5.9
Mr. Clean 5.11a
El Mat 5.10d
Assemblyline 5.9
McCarthy West 5.10c (?)
Waylaid 5.11a
Hollywood and Vine .10
Maid in the Shade .11c
La Vaca Solitaria .10b

...the view!



jacs

climber
Colorado
Mar 4, 2005 - 06:54pm PT
Spectreman, Vedauwoo
Quarter of a Man, Indian Creek
Wunsch's Dihedral, S. Platte
Spook Book, Needles
Climb of the Century, Eldo
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Mar 4, 2005 - 07:11pm PT
Nightcrawler RR
Davidsons Dihedral and numerous other forks routes like paradise lost (still can't even TR even after OS DD)
CW Hicks 2nd pitch GM
Kingpin 2nd pitch GM
Last pitch of recompence CL

Got to keep thinking

Good Morning I have figgured you out, I know who you are, Sir SAR




Larry

Trad climber
Reno NV
Mar 4, 2005 - 07:44pm PT
The Arch of Time 5.10 Titus Canyon, Indian Creek (new route).

Bottom third of Chouinard/Beckey, S. Howser Tower. Simo.

Someone had just died on Coarse & Buggy when I did it, that was exciting...no falls, no hangs for me.

Abracadaver, Cochise Stronghold.

Karl, I thought "Peace" was straightforward knobs, not a corner :-)
Mungeclimber

Social climber
N. California
Mar 4, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
bumpy path that "peace" route


very few will agree with this, so consider it top 5 Pinnacles Nat. Mon. corner routes...

Rat Race
Jorgie's Crack
Ordeal
Portent- though you climb the face
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Mar 4, 2005 - 08:21pm PT
The Open Book at Tahquitz.
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Mar 4, 2005 - 10:22pm PT
Most of the pitches on Primrose dihedral, Moses Tower, Utah
akclimber

Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
Mar 4, 2005 - 10:31pm PT
The Changing Corners pitch on the Nose was the hardest free-climbing I have ever done. Spectacular!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 4, 2005 - 11:49pm PT
apropos - Lucky Streaks, Tuolumne Meadows, the pitches just beyond the crux
Mungeclimber

Social climber
N. California
Mar 5, 2005 - 02:18am PT
Josh is on the money there.
Open book for its sheer historical value alone.
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:18am PT
The Fox, Red Rocks
Valentine's Day, Red Rocks
The shallow corner on Black Orpheus, Red Rocks
Classic Corner, Red Rocks
The Graduate, Red Rocks

of course, my experience of great corners is limited, but these are some fun ones i've been on!
TW#T

Gym climber
san diego, ca
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:47am PT
like stated at the start of this post, coarse and buggy is hands down the best corner pitch you will do. In fact headin out right now to go do it. Are you bringing the tupperware or should I Karl?

adios fellas, have a great day climbing
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:56am PT
EVER? puh-leeze. There are so very many. Like that one Dean plunges off of on the BD website. Having just returned from Indian Creek, I can think of one or two...

I think El Mat is 2 corners, strictly speaking :)

Coarse and Buggy is indeed a nice pitch, but to call it among the best ever... you've been in the little piles too long, my friend. That thing is like 42 feet tall.




How about OUTSIDE corners?

--Angels Arete, New River Gorge

--Defcon 5, T-Wall

--Swanson's Arete, Sunrider, Naked Edge, Northwest Corner, etc etc... Eldo, land of a zillion corners

--That Greg Child route on the Priest looks pretty spectacular.

--Let 'Er Buck, Donnelly Canyon


Seems like sandstone offers the cragger many many corners, of both types. Arapiles comes to mind. But there's nothing like those upper pitches on the Muir or the Nose. I guess those are only in the Top 5 list if you do them in one pitch, though....




mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Mar 5, 2005 - 11:56am PT
Fear of Flying, Phantom Spires ... beautiful

East Corner (2nd pitch), Lovers Leap...great fun climbing in corner, then A0 the crux.
Spinmaster K-Rove

Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
Mar 5, 2005 - 01:01pm PT
2nd pitch of Coffin Nail at Tahquitz!! Suuuuper classic 5.8 corner to a small roof.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 5, 2005 - 02:27pm PT
Tahquitz
Open Book , Obviously!
1st pitch of Fingertrip to El Camino Real,
Consolation, A completely unique corner configuration for the crux.
NE Face West. 4-6 pitches of cruiser fairly continuous 5.6 corner.

Needles
Third pitch of WPOD, Voodoo Dome as well as Spook Book.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 5, 2005 - 02:58pm PT
Enduro Pitch, Astroman
Lyback pitch, Good Book
Green Arch, Tahquitz
Last pitch, New Dimensions
Catchy Corner
High Pressure
Mungeclimber

Social climber
N. California
Mar 5, 2005 - 03:41pm PT
Catchy Corner!!! oh yeah. prefect laybacking in a corner.
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Mar 5, 2005 - 09:49pm PT
In order of excellance:
1. Moratorium (5.11b)
2. The Good Book (5.10d) did it twice, once before rock fall
and once just after (had to wipe off fine powder from every
hold.) Took 30' fall head first on this one.
3. Coarse and Buggy (5.11) Onsight
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Mar 5, 2005 - 09:51pm PT
Oh yeah, forgot...

4. Oz (5.10d) in Toulumne
jan

Trad climber
Mar 5, 2005 - 10:23pm PT
how about this one:

http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/yosemite/muirfeature/muir_image_p23.htm

off course we did not even come close to free it, but it's a pretty good looking dihedral.

in the realm of free routes around .9/.10-, which is what i can do on a good day, hospital corner tops the all time list of dihedral climbs. but that one has already got a fair bit of recognition on this thread, so here's some maybe lesser known corners of reasonble quality in the middle grades:

the crux moves on super pooper (tahquitz) are amazing. more finesse than brute force.

crescent arch (tuolumne) starts as a corner...

NW corner on north early winter spires (north cascades) is a mighty fine dihedral, albeit a bit wide on the crux pitches.

double exposure (skaha) is a most entertaining trad outing up a weirdly leaning corner in the midst of thousands of clip-ups, sporting awkward balance and, yes, sheer double exposure.

caboose (squamish) is a sustained clean cut corner that certainly gets harder as the forearm burn gets worse.

la luna nascente (italy), see here:
http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/misc%20areas/lunanascente1.htm

motorhead (grimsel pass, switzerland), 16 pitches of which more than half follows a series of thin, hard corners on some of the cleanest, most esthetic granite in europe. remember this route; worth the plane ticket in itself.

and a harder one that i climbed when i was younger and stronger:

cornflake crack (looking glass) is a henry barber test piece somewhere in n carolina featuring a tour the force first pitch and a calf burning stemming crux up higher.



jan
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 6, 2005 - 01:05am PT
Jan, my partner Gary noted that my lead of Cresent Arch had the highest "watch me" quotient of any climb we had ever done together. A corner indeed.
Greg Barnes

climber
Mar 6, 2005 - 01:32am PT
Another top competitor for 10- range corners: p4 of Silk Road, Cal Dome
alik

Big Wall climber
edmonton
Mar 6, 2005 - 02:31pm PT
split pillar, squamish.
the circle pitch on Zodiac is beautiful as well.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 6, 2005 - 03:59pm PT
No particular order;
Hollywood and vine, Deto
The Good book
Quarter of a Man
Bomberos Away, Camelback Mtn
The Enduro Corner a-man
timmy_t

Trad climber
Fort Fun, Colorado
Mar 6, 2005 - 06:37pm PT
Just about all Devils Tower has is amazing corners. Broken tree is another classic on it, Durrance is classic just to think when and how Jack Durrance climbed it way back when too. I'll second Assemblyline, and Soler too. So many still to do there!!!!
Slab-Dyno

Trad climber
Dublin, PA
Mar 6, 2005 - 10:43pm PT
-"Fingers in a Lightsocket" - Supercrack Buttress
-Second pitch of "Astro-Elephant" on The Elephant's Perch in Idaho
WC

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 7, 2005 - 12:02pm PT

Tough to list just five...

In the valley I enjoyed La Cosita (right) and La Escuala.
I have not climbed many of the classic valley corner pitches however.

My outside the valley favorites are:

Mayflower 5.9 (Paradise Forks)
Torpedo 5.10+ (really a double corner at PF)
On the Edge 5.11 (Paradise Forks)
Davison's Dihedral 5.11++ (Paradise Forks)
P3 of Mars Attacks! 5.8 (Sedona)
P1 of the Apache Route 5.9+ (Sedona)
P1 of Genesis 5.10- (Sedona)
Follow your Bliss 5.10- (Sedona)
P5 of Coyote Tower 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Earth Angel 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or C1 (Zion)
P1 of the North Chimney 5.9- (Castleton)

This list could go on for a while... Someone cut me off, please!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 7, 2005 - 02:19pm PT
Good Book
Oz
Open Book
Last pitch of the Yawn, Have to agree with Swellymon on this one. For those of you who haven't done this TM classic, check it out. Old school for sure.
29 Palms, while not as good as many of many of listed on this thread, still Josh worthy
Tradboy

Social climber
Valley
Mar 7, 2005 - 02:25pm PT
You mean the 5.7 corner on the Yawn right? That's the second to last pitch 'cause there's another not so memorable pitch to the top of Medlicott. Classic route for sure.
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Mar 7, 2005 - 02:26pm PT
I haven't tried most of the ones that you guys are posting, so I certainly have no experience to pick the 5 best ever, but here are five good ones...

1. Braille Book
2. Dagger
3. Catchy Corner
4. Meat Grinder
5. The stemming pitch on the RR on Lower Cathedral
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Mar 7, 2005 - 04:47pm PT
Yeah! Dagger. Forgot about that one.
Mike.

climber
Mar 7, 2005 - 05:28pm PT
P28 of Muir Wall (150', natural belay to boot)

This pitch on the Muir. I think it's #24. 80+ feet of continuous beauty.

Pitches 1 & 2 of Open Book combined (60m) = one super pitch

Pitches 8 and 13 of Excalibur

The Bismark on Mescalito (top 5 for belaying!)

The Horse Chute dihedral is stellar location climbing but mineral deposit in the crack keeps it off the definitive list IMO
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Mar 8, 2005 - 05:29pm PT
Paradise Lost.

Wavy Gravy on Scarface is kinda cool.

That crux pitch on the University Wall in Squamish that Peter Croft freed looks pretty damn amazing.

Haven't climbed D & T in Boulder but it looks really cool.

The Kor-Ingalls is pretty much a 250' corner stacked on top of a couple smaller ones.

And I have to climb the first 25 feet of Coyne Crack like a corner!
Hardly Visible

climber
Port Angeles
Mar 8, 2005 - 09:21pm PT
A few that I've enjoyed are 3rd pitch N. face Rostrum,I'd second Mellisa's Meat Grinder suggestion, Moby dick left (in a perverse sort of way), Over the Hill at Eldo, and Calamity Jam at Smith.
Nice geometry on that thing you posted a picture of Mike but that crack sure looks thin.
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 9, 2005 - 01:18pm PT
Pitch 4, White Punks on Dope on Voodoo Dome in the Needles was really really fun.

AndyG

climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 9, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
Can't believe nobody's mentioned:

Incredible Hand Crack, Indian Creek. That was a beauty.

I also enjoyed
Oz,
Course and Buggy,
Open Book,
Crux pitch of Red Dihedral, Incredible Hulk,
El Camino Real at Tahquitz is also sweet.
Touch and Go at Josh is interesting because it seems to favor short people.

Andy
Mungeclimber

Social climber
N. California
Mar 9, 2005 - 03:11pm PT
Omg, I've never heard anyone say that about Touch and Go, but I had a heck of a time on it 6'1" and my buddy floated it and is 4-5" shorter than I.

I can't figure out why this would be?
Dogger

Social climber
SE
Mar 9, 2005 - 05:28pm PT
North Carolina "Inside" Classics

P1--Reflections

P1--Double Dihedrals

1st½ Fathom

P4--Blond Ambition

P1--Maginot Line




Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Mar 9, 2005 - 07:02pm PT
You might as well throw Invisible Airwaves and Electric Kool-Aid on that list. And the Womb, while we're at it. Bumblebee.

Someday I have do go back and do justice to the first pitch of Reflections. That may be the best 5.10 layback corner in the Carolinas, but I sure didn't treat it that way...I think the last pitch may actually be the WORST corner in the state :)

You think the Fathom is really that cool? It seems like you mostly just trot alongside it,not really climbing it like a true corner. When we finally hit the groove, though, I was sho 'nuf glad we came the way we did. Yikes.

Never done the Skyhedral, people say it's nice. The Double D, though, that one's proud. Plus Plus.
AndyG

climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 9, 2005 - 08:25pm PT
"Omg, I've never heard anyone say that about Touch and Go, but I had a heck of a time on it 6'1" and my buddy floated it and is 4-5" shorter than I.

I can't figure out why this would be?"


I think it's the stemming. The best stems are spaced for short legs.

Anyway, that's my $0.02.

Andy
Petch

climber
Mar 10, 2005 - 01:55pm PT
Corner climbs in my canyon
1. Dog Party at the Box at the Leap
2. Hospital Corner
3. Grand Illusion
4. Tombstone Terror
5. Last pitch Bookmark
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Mar 10, 2005 - 02:26pm PT
Representing the North East:

Pitch 3 of VMC Direct Direct, Cannon Cliff, NH

Pitch 3 of Recompense, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Pitch 3 of Diedre, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Book of Solemnity, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Duet Direct, Cannon Cliff, NH
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 10, 2005 - 09:00pm PT
This is a good troll that has produced a quality list. but I don't think it can ever be definitive.
There are too many good corners, corners are one of the best climb types ever.
There are whole areas that are mostly strong on corners; Devil's Tower, Paradise Forks, Indian Creek etc. Some areas have such an embarrasement of riches that they have great corners by default; Yosemite, Josh, Vedauwoo, the Blackhills, the Soups, the Sierra in general.
The coolest thing about corners are the stem rests; technique over power.
The five best? Anyone's selection will make a great to do list.
Dihedrals are a cornerstone of quality climbing;


splitters are cool too.
Slab-Dyno

Trad climber
Dublin, PA
Mar 10, 2005 - 09:30pm PT
"Friday the 13th" at Vedauwoo, WY:

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 10, 2005 - 11:34pm PT
Great photo!
A truely great corner! But if you can only pick five, would it make the cut? Would it beat 4th of July? Agean stables(aka hesitation Blues?) Flying Butress? Grand Traverse? Hung like a horse? and that's just Vedauwoo! What about Black Corner? the first 5.11 pitch of Day in Court? and many more.

All corners are cool. Some are, however , more photogenic. Thanks for immortalizing that one better than I have seen it done before.
Early in, well, a while back in, my climbing career, I lead up over that first roof in the photo, placing a hex in the middle of it. I thought I had it made! I didn't. I tweaked, slipped, fell and slammed into the wall underneath.
Never a dull moment.
The second roof is almost a number grade easier than the first one.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 11, 2005 - 12:43am PT
that looks truely sick and I really want to visit Vedauwoo (that is how sick I am). I am assuming the route goes up and under that block then up over it top... don't tell me it follows the crack above though it would be too much.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 11, 2005 - 01:42am PT
Dude, don't ask what you don't want to hear. The route follows the crack to the summit. it's Vedauwoo, after all!
You'll love it!
That is such a cool photo, I feel 'blessed' to have had so many of my formative years, there.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 11, 2005 - 11:11am PT
Forget which pitch this is on Horse Chute. Its the coolest corner i have ever seen:

Joseph Myers

Trad climber
Antelope, CA
Sep 27, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
Hospital Corner. That route is wonderful, to say the least. But i would have to say El Matador would top it...even though i haven't done that one yet.
JM
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Sep 27, 2006 - 03:06pm PT
As long as we're talkin' Tahquitz don't pass up The Green Arch...

In Josh, if you like Coarse and Buggy, go find Snake Book.

How about Spook Book, in the Needles...
darod

Trad climber
South Side Billburg
Sep 27, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
Ant's Line 5.9
Roseland 5.9
Bird's Cage .10b

in the Gunks....great corner climbs...
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
Of course Friday the 13th goes through the upper roof. That's Pitch 2, although ever since some idiot put bolts on it right under the middle roof, most people never climb it. The meat of the upper roof is out of the picture but it's a classic with solid jams to the lip followed by and incredible thrash to pull right onto the summit slabs. Most people call that 11+/12-.

My favorite corners that I've done?
Enduro on Astroman - Yosemite
Good Book - Yosemite
Wunch's Dihedral - S. Platte
Quarter of a Man - Indian Creek
King Cat - Indian Creek
The Corner pitches on Primrose - Canyonlands
N. Face of the Rostrum - Yosemite
Hollywood & Vine - Devils Tower
Catchy Corner - Yosemite
Over the Hill - Eldo
Corner Pump Station - Lumpy Ridge

Mal
smitty

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Ca
Sep 27, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
There was an awesome 5.11 corner at Penatente Canyon right left of "Bullet to the Bright Blue Sky" and left of the virgin. I thought that climb was fantastic sustained small climbing!!! I doubt it will make classics when compared to some of these others, but I love corner climbng and that one definitely tickled my fancy!
Forest

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Sep 27, 2006 - 04:24pm PT
In chochise stronghold, the first pitch of Forest Lawn is pretty sweet. Note that the camera was turned a little. It's not this vertical:
Jay Hack

Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
Sep 27, 2006 - 04:29pm PT
Coarse and Buggy forsure
Last Pitch of S. Face of Prusik Peak
Open Book at Tahquitz
Red Zinger in Red Rocks
3rd pitch of Slow Children, Index
wilcox510

climber
Sep 27, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
Smitty - thats "Not My Cross to Bare" 11a/b. I'm not much of a sport climber but i LOVE that route.
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Sep 27, 2006 - 04:46pm PT
Pitch 4 of the Casual Route on the Diamond.

Brad
Old&InTheWay

Trad climber
NC
Sep 27, 2006 - 04:57pm PT
So many good corners

Tipple S - Seneca, WV
Cornflake Crack - Looking Glass, NC
Terror in Tiny Town - City Of Rocks, ID
Red Dihedral - the Hulk, CA
Double Dihedrals - Whiteside, NC
Mr. Clean - Devils Tower, WY
Prayer Book - South Platte, CO
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 27, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
Think I've got you all beat.

The Ultimahedral on Catharsis.

Half of this grade V is in a single perfect corner.


Not enough?
How about the whole route?

Gentleman's Agreement.
(That's actually MORE than 5 pitches.)
scotty vincik

climber
up north, these days
Sep 27, 2006 - 05:18pm PT
OTHER CLASSIC VALLEY CORNERS:
CRACK OF DOOM
CRACK OF DESPAIR
MENTAL BLOCK

THESE ARE SOME MAN-SIZED CORNERS. LONG AND WIDE AND CLEAN
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 27, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
Ron,
Tell me more about this formation. Pictures?


The Red Dihedral : Rainbow Wall : Redrocks

Another Indian Creek thing.
(photo copyright Tim Kemple)

OZ : Drug Dome : Yosemite NP
LuckyPink

Mountain climber
north bay today/someplace else tomorrow
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
Peaceful Warrior in Lost World improves your mind
dufas

Trad climber
san francisco
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
mithral dihedral
red dihedral
black dihedral (mammoth)
trauma at pinns is good
MSmith

Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:29pm PT
The famous corner of Horse Chute is a great pic. Unfortunately the crack has a coral-like crust that isn't much fun.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:32pm PT
The Ultimahedral is the 500' right facing corner immediately to the right of the big scar on Timbertop Mesa; can't miss it.

Gentleman's Agrrement is also in Zion, a right facing corner on the SE prow of Mt. Nemia (AKA one of the 3 "Marys", this one being the furthest W).
Again, can't miss it.


Ultimahedral, mostly wide, rap the route.
GA, bring the full range, standard descent into gap to the E, a few short raps.
goatboy smellz

climber
northboulder, co
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
corners, aretes, itz all fun...

NoRushNoMore

climber
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:41pm PT
10b (Pitch 5) and 11a (pitch 10) Silk Road
and 9+ pitch 5 War of the Walls both at Calaveras

If you have not done these you have not seen the real corners yet! close to 200' each of non-stop corner bonanza
Dog

climber
Sep 27, 2006 - 06:52pm PT
Enduro Corner-Astroman
Oz
Moratorium with Eric Gable
Good Book
Nose-the upper pitches
don'thaveone

climber
bishop
Sep 27, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
What about Yin-Yang (in the valley? I remember it being an awesome corner.
GhostClimber

climber
Sep 27, 2006 - 07:55pm PT
Touch and Go
Split Pillar
Braille book
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
Cenotaph Corner in Wales. Sight of my first leader fall. Great location....Great History.....Great Corner. Celebrated ascent with a Chip Buddy and a pint of Bitters at the local pub!!


Cracko
s. o.

Trad climber
the desert
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:02pm PT
I am suprised Piton Ron didn't include this one:
Monkeyfinger in Zion
six pitches of mostly liebacking plus an amazing slitter in the face.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
everyone likes a good slitter.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:21pm PT
SO, a bit shallow to call a corner.
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:26pm PT
Spaghetti Western, Indian Creek
The Book of Solemnity, Cathedral Ledge NH
Mechanics Routes, Mt Washington NH
Scimitar, the Leap
Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome
Wings & Stings, Hammer Dome

no shortage of clean, excellent corners out there
wildone

climber
Isolated in El Portal and loving it
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
What about "the tube" at pat and jack's? I like that one.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 27, 2006 - 08:49pm PT
Oops.

Just saw I misread the title; thought it was top five pitch corners.
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Sep 27, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
La Reina-Joshua tree
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Sep 27, 2006 - 09:36pm PT
i didin't read this. too many posts. my vote goes to: bircheff-williams, pitch one.

runner-up: rockwork orange, josh

third runner up: all of the above.
TradIsGood

Fun-loving climber
the Gunks end of the country
Sep 27, 2006 - 09:47pm PT
Today I had fun on Bloody Bush and Wrist at the Gunks. Red Pillar, P2 of Classic, and Horseman have interesting corners, too.

But they don't compare to the corners shown.
estwing

Trad climber
montreal
Sep 27, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
no one has mentioned the "Shadow" variation to University Wall in squamish
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Sep 27, 2006 - 11:11pm PT
there are some good suggestions scattered above, and i haven't climbed all of them (yet), but here are 5 great corners that i didn't see anywhere up there:



slot machine, resivoir wall, IC
kool cat, cat wall, IC (chosing that one because i'm not certain, is king cat a corner or a roof?)
the linkable pitches of rock on, squamish (is it P4&P5? maybe not top 5, but really cool)
new dimensions, linking the final 2 pitches, arch rock, YV
midterm, arch rock (it is a corner before you slide inside her)


again, not necesarily my top 5, but 5 worth being included in this thread.




btw- anyone from anywhere who doesn't include the fox @ RR in their top 5 has simply never climbed it, and saying, "so-and-so-corner looks cool", that doesn't count for shite.
Melvin Mills

Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
Sep 27, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
Paradise Lost - The Forks

It has all the styles of corner climbing and is a pumper.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Sep 28, 2006 - 12:04am PT
Some of my favs seem to be like so many others,
OZ
The Good Book
Course and Buggy
and about 50 different places on El Cap, like this one.
sorry about the black sides, but photobucket is doing weird things. I deleted it, cropped, saved and re-loaded it and it still is showing the letterbox, hmmmm
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Jan 12, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
I'd say Quarter of a Man....


In my case, Quarter of a wo-Man.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 12, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
The most recent issue of one of the mags (Climbing or R&I, I forget which) had a feature on the South Face of Half Dome, showing a free ascent of the obvious big corner. Looked like pretty amazing climbing, although there were a lot of picthes of 12 and 13, so probably out of reach for most of us here.

D
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 12, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
The classic S.E. Corner of Beacon Rock of course...
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Jan 13, 2008 - 12:40am PT
The corner to climb on Tahquitz Rock is The Green Arch.

The corner to climb in Josh is 29 Palms (other than certain boulder problems..)

Tobin's Dihedral, at Dome rock is another oversight on this thread so far.

Gorilla Warfare, in The Needles. Hoah!!

Odub

Trad climber
Cincy, Ohio
Jan 13, 2008 - 12:42am PT
The Inhibitor, 11a, Red River Gorge
Spectreman, 11c, Vedauwoo
Enduro Corner, 11c, Yosemite
4th pitch of Moonlight, 12+, Zion

In that order...

Chewbongka

climber
Jan 13, 2008 - 12:51am PT
"everyone likes a good slitter"

hahahahahaha we finally got it... wicked...

...whew...he-heh
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 13, 2008 - 03:15am PT

The Good Book


Oz


Open Book, Tahquitz


The Kind
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 13, 2008 - 03:41am PT
Muir Wall

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 13, 2008 - 03:47am PT
The Yawn

Eggstele

Trad climber
Kings Beach, Lake Tahoe
Jan 13, 2008 - 08:16am PT
Too many posts to read to be absolutely sure, but I am pretty sure no one has mentioned:


Silk Road - Cal Dome


It has been several years, but I remember a few amazing 5.10 corner pitches

elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Jan 13, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
An old favorite of mine is:

Triple S (5.9)at Seneca Rocks West (By God)Virginia

Tom Evans
Brian Kimball

Sport climber
Westminster, CO.
Jan 13, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
Enduro Corner 5.12d on Salathe Wall. No one has mentioned this 200' pitch and given the facts it could be THE BEST corner pitch on PLANET EARTH, NO???

Epitaph 5.13b on The Tombstone. It is a mind blowing winter aid line as well. I am suprised that this incredible overhanging line up this amazing formation does not get more attention. Just leave the pitons and hammer on the ground eh!

Christmas Tree 5.12d at Battle of the Buldge. 160' of Green Alien LOVE. This route is probably not in the top 5 'ALL TIME' but it was not mentioned and I certianly think this route is traditionally overlooked, especially being that it is located on such a popular wall. YO, CHALK IT UP!

Casual Route 5.8 Corner. Only one other person mentioned this. Given the setting, altitude, quality and ease, as well as the fact that you can climb the entire corner as a 230' pitch if you have a 70m rope and are willing to run it out; I think this could be a fair argument for top 5 and it is certianly one of the best rope stretchers I have ever climbed in my life!
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Jan 13, 2008 - 02:41pm PT

Some of us prefer to be enclosed in a nice, secure corner. Maybe we feel a bit vulnerable out on a flat wall and the opposing sides give us a sense (possibly false) of protection.

Of course, I'm preferential to Course and Buggy. I've also loved every liebacking, stemming and splayed open instant on the Good Book, the Moratorium, the Green Arch, the Bircheff-Williams, Anticipation, the Open Book, High Pressure and Oz.

Oh yes, and what is the name of that classic Largo/Harrison route at Josh (named after a Hendrix song?) that starts out on overhanging thin hand crack in a perfect corner, then surmounts the giant roof while hand-traversing the big flake. Help me with this...
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Jan 13, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
That would be Imaginary Voyage ...?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 13, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
I need to go climbing...

Too right!

I'm thinking the Red Dihedral pitches at the top of the Rainbow Wall were about the most cosmic corners that I ever climbed.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 13, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
Corrigation Corner; The Leap

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 13, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
Chitlin Corner, Maine


Red M and M's Vantage, Wa.

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Jan 13, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
Hey Todd = would them be yer chitlin's there ...?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 13, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
Yessir, they would be.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jan 14, 2008 - 01:59am PT
The big corner (13a?) at Squamish--The Shadow (?) There was a profile of it in an old Climbing and then more recently in Alpinist. Requires incredible shoulder and hip strength. Oh, and really good rubber.
TradIsGood

Recently unshackled climber
the Gunks end of the country
Jan 14, 2008 - 07:10am PT
Also at Gunks - P2 of Baby - 6.
Much shorter, but intense - The Spring - 10.
As mentioned earlier, Ant's Line - keeps coming at you until you reach the anchor (just above the crux!)
Tim Lawrence

Trad climber
Madrid, Spain
Jan 14, 2008 - 08:05am PT
The Daily Planet in Squamish has to be one of the best corner pitches ever!
scuffy b

climber
Stump with a backrest
Jan 14, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
Spencer, you did a great job leading Catchy Corner on a couple
hexes in 77.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 14, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
Moritorium
Good Book
Paradise Lost
Mayflower Direct
Forest Lawn
Corrigation Corner
SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 14, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
Cracko--I've never done it, but I'm glad you mentioned Cenotaph
corner. It's a beaut.
Tom Evans--I agree about Triple-S in West (by god), Virginia, but it was a 5.8 when we old climbers did it.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jan 14, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
Another excellent corner in the Gunks is Bonnie's Roof.

And Todd Gordon - I'd agree Chitlins Corner is phenomenal. Pitch one - at the grade (5.7), I cannot think of any corner that comes close in quality. And pitch 2, while shorter and harder (5.10a) is pretty damn good.

GO
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 20, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
here's one of the corners mentioned...

Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jan 21, 2008 - 01:24am PT
Here are a few shots of my favorites:


Enduro corner on the Salathe/Freerider

Wunsch's Dihedral

adam d

climber
CA
Jan 21, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
gunks corner pics

The Winter, 10d

Simple Suff 10a (Barber FFA)


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 5, 2008 - 10:23am PT
El Matador

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 5, 2008 - 10:24am PT
Class Act.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 5, 2008 - 10:32am PT
Gram Traverse, two pitches of corner. Just at a funny angle...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 18, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 19, 2008 - 01:19am PT
Another good one is Green Arch at Tahquitz. A thin corner, but a corner nonetheless.

JL
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 19, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
Is it Top 5? Naww ... but all Josh climbers will recognize this nifty, over-protectable little corner.

BigNick

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Feb 19, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
Here’s a few:

JT

Pat Adams Dihedral…albeit a steep corner
Popes Crack
29 Palms
Scary Monsters

RR

Cloud Tower …crux pitch…and last?

Yos.

Beggars Buttress …at least 2 of the pitches
East Buttress Lower Cathedral

Needles

Ankles Away…1st pitch
adam d

climber
CA
Feb 19, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
Chiloe's is Light Sabre
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 20, 2008 - 07:04am PT
Chiloe's is Light Sabre

And adam d is right! Fun little corner, eh?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 1, 2008 - 08:38pm PT
didn't read the whole thing
Bircheff williams?
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Mar 1, 2008 - 11:14pm PT
with all these great photos ther seems to be alot of good corners out there.

personally I found the 10th pitch of Silk Road to be one of the best I have done. Also and I did not see anyone else mention Dog Party at the Leap. Great job by Petch doing this one first.
It is short but stout and I get worked on it every time.

take care
dave
Messages 1 - 134 of total 134 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta