Lesser Known list of classics in Yosemite


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Social climber
May 20, 2008 - 02:41am PT
hey there clustiere... i was on checking email, for one last time tonight... say, thanks for this neat post... (thread)... i got your name now.... sorry i messed it up ... (i get things backwards sometimes and did not want to mess it up with the i, e's...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
Dynamo Hum (up behind C4, uphill from Henley Quits, was originally C4 tree, and the FFA was Largo and Tobin 75.
Double D

May 21, 2008 - 11:25am PT
Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Bump for yosemite climbing trip!

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 19, 2009 - 12:27am PT
Since clustiere bumped this back up, might as well answer his question of last year: N buttress (regular) of Middle Cathedral is good. A few sections of undistinguished (easy) climbing, but quite a lot of good pitches too; not to mention the obligatory short grovelly tunnel-through chimney for a Harding route (way easier and a bit dirtier than most though). The 10a corner high up is really good climbing, with passable TCU or small wire pro, wish the one ancient spinner bolt there were better but you are OK without it (especially if you select B: do not fall). Whole climb is maybe not quite so good as E buttress, nor as hard and sustained as NE buttress of Higher, but pretty damn good.

Another rarely done route that's also pretty good is East Corner of Higher Spire. 5.9 or harder on almost every pitch.

In the slab realm, do something worthwhile (not Harry Daley) to get to Monday Morning, then to Patio, then to Coonyard. After MM slab, you won't find a line in front of you. Great rock, climbing similar to Grack Marginal which people rave about. Reasonable runouts (rhymes with R).
The Warbler

the edge of America
May 19, 2009 - 12:55am PT
The south facing wall of The Devil's Dancefloor holds some classic sportbolted faceclimbs.

Now that Tamarack Flats Campground is open, it's a 30 minute approach.

Some of the best faceclimbing I've done in the Valley. Amazing rock.

One 3 pitch route, Eldorado, climbs over a six foot roof on the first pitch, up a golden, hold infested, ever steepening 12a face on the second, and a Tuolumne style crystal slab finishing pitch, 11+.

There's a freestanding pinnacle up there, with a real nice 2 pitch route, 11 d arete 1st pitch, and double water groove with huge knobs 5.11 second pitch, The Medicine Man.

Don't know of any ascents other than our crew.
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
I totally agree about East Corner on Higher Spire, I think it's a much better route than the Reg. on the spire.

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
May 21, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
Essence is a really cool two pitch climb 5.11. It just is quite a hike to get to.

Trad climber
May 21, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
SuperSlide, the bottom pitches are a blocky adventure but the last pitch has a totally classic splitter hand crack.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 21, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
DD wrote: "Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!"

Now that's a route I hadn't thought about in like 30 years. There were some dime edges by the crack and by using the edge of the tip seam as an edge itself, it was possible - barely. The first bit is hard as well.

Devil's Dancefloor has got to be one of the great names in all of Yosemite.

Not at all obscure but super duper good is the Lost Arrow Tip free. Never hear about people doing that one.

And for a super obscure and totally forgotten run out gem, try Chain Reaction, or the easier Peanut, to its right. Both good climbs.

Lastly, The Fin. Great 11d finger crack.


Trad climber
Jul 8, 2015 - 01:25pm PT

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jul 8, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
Haven't done the NW Face of MCR, but I've been at the base, and the route looks pretty clean and fun.

Many, many decades ago, Richard Harris and I did the NW Buttress, which was easy and enjoyable. The NW Face looked like an enjoyable, straightforward and lenghty romp.


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 8, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
The Book of Job

Beggars Buttress

Lost Arrow Chimney

Stepping Out
The Warbler

the edge of America
Jul 8, 2015 - 07:24pm PT
Left Side of Slab Happy Pinnacle looks great, but I haven't done it.

Don't know why it doesn't get done more, but the Left Side of Moby Dick is really good, much better than it looks and totally unique. Same with Left Side of Reeds, Vendetta, and Edge of Night, three user friendly wide climbs that are clean and beautiful.

Plumb Line on Elephant Rock fits in with those, just longer.

Windfall and Windjammer on The Tower of the Cosmic Winds are a couple of obscure classics that stand on either side of the gatepost to the Valley with Windjammer in plain view of The Wawona Tunnel parking lot.

Soul Sacrifice, Vanishing Point, Overdrive, Right Side of The Worst Error, Hairline, Pink Dreams, Inch and a Quarter Blues, Energy Crisis, Demon's Delight, Tightrope...
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