Lesser Known list of classics in Yosemite

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Messages 141 - 150 of total 150 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 20, 2008 - 02:41am PT
hey there clustiere... i was on checking email, for one last time tonight... say, thanks for this neat post... (thread)... i got your name now.... sorry i messed it up ... (i get things backwards sometimes and did not want to mess it up with the i, e's...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
Dynamo Hum (up behind C4, uphill from Henley Quits, was originally C4 tree, and the FFA was Largo and Tobin 75.
Double D

climber
May 21, 2008 - 11:25am PT
Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Bump for yosemite climbing trip!
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 19, 2009 - 12:27am PT
Since clustiere bumped this back up, might as well answer his question of last year: N buttress (regular) of Middle Cathedral is good. A few sections of undistinguished (easy) climbing, but quite a lot of good pitches too; not to mention the obligatory short grovelly tunnel-through chimney for a Harding route (way easier and a bit dirtier than most though). The 10a corner high up is really good climbing, with passable TCU or small wire pro, wish the one ancient spinner bolt there were better but you are OK without it (especially if you select B: do not fall). Whole climb is maybe not quite so good as E buttress, nor as hard and sustained as NE buttress of Higher, but pretty damn good.

Another rarely done route that's also pretty good is East Corner of Higher Spire. 5.9 or harder on almost every pitch.

In the slab realm, do something worthwhile (not Harry Daley) to get to Monday Morning, then to Patio, then to Coonyard. After MM slab, you won't find a line in front of you. Great rock, climbing similar to Grack Marginal which people rave about. Reasonable runouts (rhymes with R).
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 19, 2009 - 12:55am PT
The south facing wall of The Devil's Dancefloor holds some classic sportbolted faceclimbs.

Now that Tamarack Flats Campground is open, it's a 30 minute approach.

Some of the best faceclimbing I've done in the Valley. Amazing rock.

One 3 pitch route, Eldorado, climbs over a six foot roof on the first pitch, up a golden, hold infested, ever steepening 12a face on the second, and a Tuolumne style crystal slab finishing pitch, 11+.

There's a freestanding pinnacle up there, with a real nice 2 pitch route, 11 d arete 1st pitch, and double water groove with huge knobs 5.11 second pitch, The Medicine Man.

Don't know of any ascents other than our crew.
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
I totally agree about East Corner on Higher Spire, I think it's a much better route than the Reg. on the spire.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
May 21, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
Essence is a really cool two pitch climb 5.11. It just is quite a hike to get to.
Trad-Monkey

Trad climber
SF, CA
May 21, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
SuperSlide, the bottom pitches are a blocky adventure but the last pitch has a totally classic splitter hand crack.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 21, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
DD wrote: "Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!"

Now that's a route I hadn't thought about in like 30 years. There were some dime edges by the crack and by using the edge of the tip seam as an edge itself, it was possible - barely. The first bit is hard as well.

Devil's Dancefloor has got to be one of the great names in all of Yosemite.

Not at all obscure but super duper good is the Lost Arrow Tip free. Never hear about people doing that one.

And for a super obscure and totally forgotten run out gem, try Chain Reaction, or the easier Peanut, to its right. Both good climbs.

Lastly, The Fin. Great 11d finger crack.

JL
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