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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 11, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
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hey chris-
the meadows misses you too bro!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 11, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
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I talked to Oliver (Moon?)...anyways, the buft Canadian dude. He's done BFBB and other hard wide. He sez it's hard, but that's not "mandatory" beta...poorly pro'ed, as well.
ct, that's a fantastic photo.
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chad
climber
Tuolumne
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Jul 11, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Just heard about this thread. Whats up Bachar, Bovine, James full of slander as usual. I'm up in the meadows right now using some sweet dial-up internet.
Tried that route twice, 2001 with sean K, neither of us sent, I fell out of the crux moves in the roof about a dozen times, onto the #3 peanut. cracked my cheakbone pretty good on one fall.
here's a bit of info. The fixed #3 peanut under the roof is the first piece off the anchor, then it's about 15 feet no more pro, through the crux. the crux is very short. the arm bars were actually pretty easy, and super secure for the first few, then your feet cut out and it's a couple real hard moves. it's a water groove, totally flaring . As far as I knew dale bard had the only ascent (proud), i think Oliver did not send, but it would be for lack of effort because he is a beast(he made short work of BfBB and Trench Warfare), maybe he did though. Maybe David sent it, wouldn't doubt that either. I talked to Dale years ago, he did it the same way as I tried, with the arm bars. After the last good arm bar, he sucked his legs up, jammed his feet into the back of the groove, and pressed his knees out against the sides of the groove. pretty wild beta, and definite short guy beta, i couldn't get my legs up i there. The route looks cool in pics, and from the road, but in reality it's a bit of a nightmare. the first pitch is a mellow 5.6 solo to a ledge with no anchor, then super runout grainy 5.9, then a 10d traverse under the roof that is always soaking wet. I think it would have more ascents, but most people go up once, and do not generally return. it's hard, but not in a fun way i guess. above the crux is pretty nice climbing though.
hope someone finds this info interesting. I'm off to the beach.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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Did Piggot ever go up there or was that some other wide thing? Jaybro, do you recall?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
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Piggot did the Owl, and at least got on Elephant's E. I thought Cilley told the he (Rick)did EE. I asked him about it and we ended up swapping Owl stories and never back to EE.
-never even spoke about Boa.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 11, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Chad,
Thanks for that write-up. Ever try Piroette? That one seems to get just as little traffic.
Nice job on Broken Arrow!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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I tried it with Dale a long time ago. We couldn't make a move on it. He became obsessed with it and got it.
Dale could straight arm bar anything - no stacking needed. The best pure off width climber I've ever seen.
I was looking at it the other day and it brought back memories.
It's wicked man....
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Jul 14, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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Chad,
Good to hear you're not a poser. Hope the meadows are sick.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 04:56am PT
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Pretty sure that Chad Shepard pic is from 2001. I'm not sure if he ever sent it but it sounds like he kept trying.
*edit* oops he posted in this thread already
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Jun 29, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Bump for sickness!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 29, 2009 - 12:54am PT
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John, What's it like getting to the biddness? ie the face below the roof.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 26, 2009 - 03:10am PT
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ho man... looks so sweet
from the Alpinist web site...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2009 - 03:42am PT
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Dang!
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Eric McAuliffe
Trad climber
Alpine County, CA
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Jul 26, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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isn't that somewhere near aqua nobby? Lama looks SOLID; thats a scary looking flare!
E
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Aug 20, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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Bump because its rad. Anyone get on it this year?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Aug 20, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
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Dale. Focus. Done...eventually.
Hey, that is a superb pic of Boa and the Forked Tongue Rt.
Reminds me of why we went up there. What beautiful rock.
TC
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 20, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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If you can/have done Boa roof you're an instant rock climbing demigod ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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the start of another TM season...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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this thread is really about how strong Dale was and how intense and focussed he could be.
EDIT: although looking through it again I'm thinking about how odd it is that John has moved on
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