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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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Dale Bard freed this beast in 1982 in EB's at 5.12d with Harrington.
Does anybody know who's done this thing?
Thanks, JB
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
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I'll see if I can dig up an old Epperson photo of it (Chad Shephard climbing?) He's using some pretty unorthodox wide technique. Walt Shipley may have done it (mention of it showed up in another thread.) Schneider? Not many, that's for sure
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Double face out armbars ( in the photo, I've never been up there, yet)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Jay, what in the heck is that?!?
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
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Regarding the brilliantly framed image by Epperson - the cramped frame conveying the climber's predicament perfectly - I understand that what followed immediately was a fall, so the fancy double arm bar is presumably not the way to go.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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that looks easy
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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Okay, so it was a face in, attempt. Oh well.
As Schneider set to Walt (who had just suggested that very beta (guy never forgot anything he heard, I swear)) one memorable night, on the lodge slide show benches.
"Doubtful!"
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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is that up on the pywiak(sp?) headwall?
if so, i heard that was just a pose for a shoot as opposed to an effective technique for an ascent (let's be honest, lots of the climbing photos out there are either posed or re-enactment poses for photos).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
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looks casual.
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lemon_boy
climber
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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i have actually used the 'double chickenwing' technique on several overhanging (and quite a few not-overhanging) routes, and it actually works pretty good. you set one wing, and then shuffle the other a small bit, slowly working them back and forth. in particular, it is pretty good in flares as they can conform to your arm dimensions a bit better than parallel cracks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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I'll send Shanti.
I did no dble armbars on Lizard King, but maybe I should have-Mebbe on New Maps of Hell, too!
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Jul 10, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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If Chad did not get it clean on that go in the photo, What about his partner that day, Sean Kriletich? I can't remember if either one of them sent...
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tr4
climber
Jah Meadows,ynp,ca
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Jul 10, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
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Yeah I do remember in 2002 or 03 those guys going up there, Chad and Sean. I think Oliver the beast from Canada went up a few years ago too.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 10, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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yeah, that thing looks light - uh huh...
(holy sh*t)
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bob
climber
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Jul 11, 2008 - 10:38am PT
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Nope, no send for the boys in 2003. Looked hard as I stared up at them from below nursing my monstrous hangover. Bad enough that I still remember it. Looks quite engaging for sure. Definitely no problem for folks to take the whippers thats for sure. Sounds like a fixed nut was the lucky piece. Never got up there and tried it myself. Did the approach pitch when doing Soft White Underbelly. No pro! You thinking of getting up there John?
Bob J.
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CF
climber
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Jul 11, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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I worked on this with Vern Clevenger back in the 70's and the crossed arm bars are pretty much the only thing that works as there is no crack in the back. Vern almost got it one day as he had the fist jam but then fell. The approach pitch is pretty run out and a bolt may have fallen out.
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Jul 11, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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Chad didn't send it and I believe the double-arm bar was a little bit of a pose. He couldn't figure out how to do it. Bard probably threw his legs over his head and did a Houdini move. There's a small brass stopper protecting the move. A little hairball. Let me know if you go out and try it John. I'd like to hear about it.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Why is it called Boa Roof? I didn't know that boa constrictors had a habit of spitting out their prey.
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