Middle Cathedral North Face Apron rebolting photo TR 6/14/08

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 61 - 71 of total 71 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Feb 19, 2009 - 08:45pm PT

Classic routes long dead have been resurrected thanks to Rodg., Clint and their many friends.

Very nicely done! Yomens work to be sure.

JL

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Feb 19, 2009 - 10:11pm PT

What a renewal. Thanks Roger and Clint and crew.

All the best,

The-safe-and-warm-at-home-Roger

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jan 23, 2011 - 09:44pm PT

bump for climbing

ablegabel

Trad climber

Dublin,Ca.

Jan 24, 2011 - 11:51pm PT

Just for the record. I did not add or replace the bolts on the Middle Cathedral North Face Traverse. When I did it in early to mid 2000, there were no bolts, just the old piton that you guys pulled out (more out than in). We did about a dozen hook moves through that section. We did the route from the Gunsight to the Middle Cathedral Decent Gully and had an incredible day on an old and forgotten natural passage. Although you found the new bolts useful, I can't begin to tell you how much they offend me. They have ruined a great section of an existing established route. Although few people probably would ever do this route, it is no excuse for it to be ruined for the few who would aspire to take on the challenge. This is a historical route from the early days in Yosemite climbing. 5.8, A3. Dick Long, George Mandatory, Jack Davis and Bob Skinner, July 1954. Why don't the bolters just sh#t on the first ascensionist. These bolts should be removed! I suspect that these were added for easier access to a new 5.12 bolted face climb on Middle Cathedrals North/West Buttress (but I don't now that for fact). Although this section probably goes free at 5.10, it is not an excuse to deface an existing route. I hope that the climbing community will not let shameful actions like this stand - Eric Gabel- By the way, I have nothing but respect for Rodger, Clint, Bob and any others who have participated in the replacement of bolts on existing routes.

Buju

Big Wall climber

the range of light

Jan 24, 2011 - 11:56pm PT

Fixing that line was one of the highlights of early season 2008. Great work Roger!!!

-Roger Putnam

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 03:24am PT

Eric,

Sorry I guessed (wrongly) that the new bolt was something you had replaced.
I should have checked with you first before posting that, or at a minimum made it clear it was just my guess.
I knew you had done the route,
and I knew you wouldn't add a bolt.
I think you are right - it was probably added when Border Country crossed it right about there.

Clint

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 19, 2015 - 08:11pm PT

rebolting...

mikeyschaefer

climber

Sport-o-land

Oct 21, 2015 - 02:34pm PT

Sorry Eric and Clint. Your assumptions are wrong about me placing the bolts on the traverse. I think they might of been there before I did Border Country. I have no idea why they are there and they aren't used for BC.

ablegabel

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Oct 21, 2015 - 03:37pm PT

Hi Mikey,
Sorry for implying that you may have placed those bolts. I'm very glad to hear it wasn't you. I guess the timing was close to when your route went up, so I assumed it had something to do with that. Once again, my sincere apology.

When we originally went across the traverse, my partner was following my lead when a hold broke on a free move. The hold smashed him in the head, he took a winger, and was caught by a sky hook. This was the first sky hook of several in a row. Not sure what would have happened if that one had blown. He had blood all over his head, but was fine. We had such a grand day that I'll never forget. The exposure in the middle of that face is incredible, as I'm sure you know.

Your routes look awesome buy the way, nice job and nice style on the FA.

- Eric Gabel