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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2008 - 08:25am PT
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Middle Cathedral North Face Apron rebolting - summer 2008 - first weekend
Last summer I spent a few days helping fix a couple of ropes for
Roger Brown, and he was able to replace over 200 bolts at the Arches
Terrace and Glacier Point Apron. In the previous summer, Roger had replaced
over 260 bolts in Tuolumne Meadows over 2 months. There was also
his staggering project of rebolting the upper slab of the Harding-Rowell
route on the south face of Half Dome, by packing over 1000' of fixed rope
to the top of Half Dome, then rapping down, drilling, filling, jugging out
to replenish his water supply, then packing all those ropes back out
again.... Roger is a force!
There was lots of interest in rebolting the routes on Middle Cathedral's
North Face Apron, thanks in part to a virtual reunion (supertopo forum style)
of the Stonemasters, uncovering the stories and photos from the first
ascents of the classics there in the 70s.
So for summer 2008 Roger's strategy was clear - get there first thing while
early summer temps were still moderate, so we could get some help in
leading up a few of the routes and fixing ropes for the bolt replacement work.
Kelly Rich joined in to provide some much needed leading talent, and I knew we
could get ourselves up *something* - maybe even a couple of somethings?
It had been over 20 years since my first and only attempt to lead there -
back in the 80s I managed to follow a few pitches on Quicksilver but nearly
froze in fear when I didn't want to unclip from a bolt while following a
traverse! So I knew a return to this place would challenge me seriously on
lead (good thing we had Kelly!).
Shortly before the first planned weekend, Roger emailed me with some bad news -
he had a back injury from a freak accident at home. Apparently minor, but
it was a fracture, so this was a potentially big setback. Roger seemed
to think it would just be a delay, but I was concerned about complications
and the priority was Roger's health; the project had to be put on hold
and hopefully he would heal up OK at whatever pace it took.
Greg Barnes had just dropped off 250 ASCA bolts and hangers for the project,
and plans for Yosemite were uncertain at best, so I detoured on the original
first weekend and did some bolt replacement at Chiquito Dome with Joel.
When I got back, Roger said he was ready to start the next weekend, only
2 weeks after the injury instead of the expected 4+ weeks.
Kelly, his climbing partner Bruce, and I drove in on Saturday morning and
met Roger at the base of the wall. Roger was pleased to inform us that
additional help for the rebolting party was on the way - Jesse McGahey,
Megan McGahey, Eric Bissell and Roger Putnam were joining us!
This was great news. Jesse and Eric are the Yosemite climbing rangers,
and chose to spend their own time (day off) to help with the project!
After going over the topos, we came up with a plan which would hopefully
yield fixed ropes to three high points. Roger could then use the
fixed ropes to access bolts in the arcs below the high points over the next
few weeks. Jesse, Megan and Roger P. took Quicksilver, Kelly and Bruce
took Exodus, and Eric and I would try to do a few pitches on Mother Earth.
Before starting, Roger P. ran down and ran back up with Roger B's new 600'
static line!
Saturday 6/14/08
Quicksilver
Jesse leads the Quicksilver p1 corner as Roger P. belays.
Eric and Megan confer to the left.
Megan follows Jesse on Quicksilver p1
Megan raps down the static line from p3 on Quicksilver; Jesse above in white.
Jesse belays while Roger P. places a new bolt at the Quicksilver p4 anchor.
Exodus
Bruce belays Kelly on Exodus p1. Lower Cathedral east face in the background.
Kelly. Note the typical disturbing scarcity of protection
Bruce belays. Quicksilver p1 corner in the background
Kelly gets some temporary shade
Bruce follows Exodus p1 (he climbs barefoot)
Roger B. replaces the Exodus p1 anchor, judged way unsafe to risk the long runout right off the belay on p2.
Mother Earth
Eric leads the "5.7" p1 corner on Mother Earth (more like a delicate 5.8, after brushing debris off the holds as the first recent party)
Looking down at Eric from my high point on p2, a little above the 3rd rusty bolt.
Actually I had only advanced our progress by one bolt, after pulling on all the bolts and doing the mantle on my second try,
then desperately pulling up on the tail of the tat sling just above it!
Note bail biners on bolts 2 and 3 (upper one with initials JM, from Jesse's high point last year).
But I was happy to make a contribution to the lead, even if it was minor.
Eric starting the moves above my old high point; he also freed the pitch instead of using my aid style!
Tat slings on all 3 lowest bolts, plus 2 bail biners. No tat slings on the upper visible bolts.
Checking out the climbing above the last bolt.
Eric finished p2 to the belay stance, but found no usable anchor bolts!
(broken hanger on left; hole / missing bolt at upper right).
It was a good thing Jesse had bailed below this on his attempt last year - he would have needed a bolt kit to get down safely!
Eric climbed up higher and placed some marginal gear, then belayed me with a hip belay on the very narrow stance.
I batmanned the rope a couple of times, but he held me without weighting the marginal gear.
There was a block teetering at the belay, ready to fly, so we double-checked
the base and I advised Eric to trundle it before I started following.
With the left bolt replaced, Eric enlarges/deepens the hole for the right anchor bolt.
Eric removes the marginal gear he had placed for the anchor before we replaced the anchor bolts
(we tried not to weight the gear - note detached flake).
p2 anchor replaced (right hanger to be swapped for double ring hanger later by Roger)
Sunday 6/15/08
Roger B. jugs his 600' static line on the start of Quicksilver, which Jesse, Roger P., and Megan had fixed to the top of p4 on Saturday.
The white back brace is for Roger's recent back injury.
Roger jugs Quicksilver p3
The East Buttress of Lower Cathedral Rock, mid-morning light.
Kelly attempts the runout Exodus p2.
Bruce wisely belays from a rope tether 20' below the anchors.
Kelly and Bruce on Exodus p2.
Bolt proliferation - Quicksilver p1 anchor.
Bolt at upper right is likely an original from the first ascent (old thin SMC chrome-moly hanger).
Two bolts on left with Metolius rap hangers are 3/8" but not stainless.
Roger will clean this up by removing all but 2 bolts and patching the holes.
This is typical of casually reinforced anchors - people add bolts but do not know how to remove the old ones.
A Bugaboo fixed pin in good shape, Quicksilver p2
Quicksilver p2 anchor
Original bolts are the lowest two; top two bolts are 1/2" stainless, probably placed with a power drill
in the late 80s when they were in use in Yosemite.
Quicksilver p3 anchor
Jugging up to join Roger at the top of Quicksilver p4
Original bolt with Dolt hanger on Quicksilver p4, where Freewheelin' joins it.
Quicksilver p4 anchor
Top bolt added by Roger P. on Saturday so he could belay Jesse safely.
Bolt on right is a 5/16" buttonhead.
Original bolts on left; note broken drill bit in hole just right of bolt - typical problem with 70s 1/4" Rawl drill bits.
Roger at the Quicksilver p4 belay; I'm starting up the lead on p5
We spied this bolt way up and left from the belay. Up close, it doesn't look so great! :-)
Roger sent up the bolt kit
The bolt must have been placed in desperation - very shallow hole.
Clearly not placed by the first ascent team, who placed good bolts, and not on the topo.
I had to stack Lost Arrows under my tuning fork because it was sticking out so far.
This was not enough, so I turned the Lost Arrows over, with their eyes against the rock to get enough thickness to extract it.
It wasn't original, so I didn't replace it. I was also off route
on the pitch, so I reversed a 40' traverse back to my only pro,
then traversed a bit higher, seeking the "pointed flake" shown
on the topo.
Nice view of El Cap from up here
After some extended wandering, I found this anchor, hidden from below by the "pointed flake".
The topo did not show a bolted anchor, but the vintage of the hangers looked about right to be original or placed shortly after the FA.
While I replaced the p5 anchor, Roger tied off the lead line and could finally start fixing the p4 anchor
I placed the new p5 anchor bolts at head height, visible from below
Pulled the old p5 bolts
On the way down, I fixed a rope to the anchor atop Ticket to Nowhere (p5)
Note 1/2" SS bolts with Metolius rap hangers added by someone, but original bolts with thick SMC stainless hangers (from the 80s) not removed (yet).
I finished rappelling and we all hiked out. I drove out with Kelly and Bruce.
Roger has been busy on the fixed ropes since then, still healing up and replacing 9 to 10 bolts a day most recently.
He estimates there are 100 bolts within reach of the current fixed lines.
Once he has fixed those, we'll work to fix to other high points and continue the process!
See Roger's "Bolt Replacement 2008" thread on the supertopo forum for more reports and news on the project.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=621928
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jun 27, 2008 - 08:29am PT
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excellent work
beautiful pics
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jun 27, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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Many thanks for the maint.....Quicksilver has been needing some care for a long time....
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
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I always thought the climbing on Mother Earth (the firsty 10 pitches that is, which are all free at around 11.c) was the very best on the Middle Apron. Hope you guys can replace all the bolts on that lower half of the route - that would provide an all-time classic. Once you hit the big ledge at the end of pitch 10 you can traverse (10a) right into the Gunsight and return to the base.
JL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2008 - 04:33pm PT
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John,
We will definitely replace all the bolts on Middle Earth. Probably I will be taking my aid approach and approach via the traverse, then fix down the route!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 28, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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Clint- those frighteningly thin stainless steel Leeper hanger look alikes were made by Vern Clevenger. Hopefully one or two can make it into Ken's collection as they are pretty unique. Nice work on the bolting.
What no "Leap or 5.12?"
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 28, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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Steve G. wrote: What no "Leap or 5.12?"
How Steve knew about this is beyond me but on the 8th (9th??) pitch of Mother Earth there was a leap for a hold (at least that's how we did it on the first ascent). Kauk was too short for the leap and managed to boulder around the leap (looked totally horrendous) after a few tries. Since that was 30 years ago (that in itself seems incredible) I imagine the moves aren't too hard by modern standards.
We rarely rated anything 5.12 back then. But I do reckon that with new bolts the first 10 pitches of this one would be fantastic as a day climb. It's steeper than most of the climbing on the N. Face Apron, and you get way up there. Perhaps a few new protection bolts should be added. Couple of those pitches are like 10- with almost nothing for pro. The hard stuff is protected okay, as I remember.
As is, Mother Earth is largely a mystery route. I don't think those initial (first 10) pitches have been done in close to three decades, and they were some of the best ones I ever did on Middle.
JL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 28, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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Clint, thx.
Is it odd that I read all the rebolting trip reports? :)
tidbits of history unearthed in your efforts, ya know?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 28, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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I have insider knowledge JL----The Warbler topo from 77 or so. Feast your eyes on a truly classic topo drawn straight from memory on a page from the original Meyers looseleaf guide.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 28, 2008 - 08:38pm PT
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I like the way it was possible in 1977 for Kevin to warp space so that Mother Earth was to the left of the Kor Beck.
I think those Dolt hangers that you show on pitch 4 where "Quicksilver" meets "Freewheeling" are probably from my bolt kit--state of the art, man.
Cool thread, lots of great memories. I have a few B&Ws from the first ascent of "Freewheeling." I'll have to scan them.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 28, 2008 - 09:34pm PT
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very cool Steve!
talk about un-"earthing" tidbits right before you eyes.
hahaha
I must be pre-cognitive.
and for my next trick, nothing up my sleeve, PRESTO!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 28, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
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I recall that Kauk refered to doing that Mother of a leap statically as the "hardest moves he had done on rock."
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 28, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
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All of this makes it all the more interesting for someone to go up there in this century and find out what the hell's up there. Maybe we're all just dreaming here and the thing's cake. But I sorta doubt it . . .
It's up to Clint now, and his friends. Going down from the big ledge up high (end of 10th pitch) is the only way to rebolt this one, IMHO.
JL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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Kevin,
> When rapping Mother Earth, because the last two pitches are straight up the corners, and those corners are reached by a Long traverse, an option would be to continue east past those corners on the North Face Traverse route, before descending.
Yeah, I think that would be the plan - essentially to rap the Smith-Crawford.
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Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
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Jun 29, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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Wow,
Very impressive Lads. Bravo!!
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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Clint,
Awesome photos and TR fro the weekend. I haven't gotten back since that day. Quicksilver was a lot of fun, and I'm sure it will be even MORE fun for the next party.
Yes, very good thing I bailed on Mother Earth last year. I wasn't interested in the 30' plus run-out over those old rusty 1/4"ers. Eric Bissell, or Grasshopper as we call him, is a great face climber and cool under pressure. I'm psyched to have another climbing ranger to share the fun! We really want to get back on the Mother Earth and continue the project. Have you been back over there?
Largo,
Maybe we ca talk about "a few more protection bolts", I think if this master piece is going to be appreciated in this century we might want to add a few more bolts. I'm sure I'll catch hell for that comment. I talked to Ron K. last year, and he made a similar comment. He said it was incredible climbing, but he didn't mention "leap or 5.12".
Cheers,
Jesse
Awesome stuff over there
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I think the whole approach of running the rope out has been junked as of about 1980 so of course, if someone goes back up there and rebolts Mother Earth, by all means slap in enough bolts that folks will want to get on the thing, otherwise it will never get repeated. And that would be a shame since the climbing is fantastic.
JL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2008 - 01:18am PT
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Kevin,
The original bolts will be replaced using the Fixe SS 4mm thick hangers stamped ASCA. Those only go onto original bolts (as far as we can determine, using the topo, etc.).
If somebody wants to negotiate with George, Eric, Kevin, John and Mark on adding new bolts, that would need to be done separately from the ASCA rebolting.
John, Mark and Ron were on the FA of the complete route, adding the upper half above the North Face Traverse route.
There weren't any 30' runouts on the first two pitches. I think it will feel less runout once the bolts are replaced and you are no longer wondering how many might break and how far you will go if you fall. We tested the 1/4" bolts on the second pitch before leading above them.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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Stories and photos from the first ascent of Mother Earth are on the "Welcome to Kevin Worrall" thread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=252358&msg=287218#msg287218
I have put these together on a separate thread "Mother Earth - stories and photos from the first ascent" to make them easier to find.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=626619
For Sewellymom and others, here are the first two posts in the above thread on Mother Earth. They explain the origin of the route with George Meyers, and how he recruited "special forces" to push the route further.
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Sep 18, 2006, 10:07am PT
Author: Largo
Sport climber From: Venice, Ca
Yo, KW--
Tell us the story about you and three others on Mother Earth, and how you battled up to the big ledge after many heroics only to find that George had mistakenly bought dog food for dinner.
JL
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Sep 18, 2006, 09:57pm PT
Author: The Warbler
climber From: the edge of America
George Meyers climbed with barely contained excitement - his fingers would flutter on each feature as he chose the exact position to move from. His gapped tooth grin was ever present on Middle, and his enthusiasm for the mind game played on her burnished flanks quickly worked it's way into some of us and grew to a passion ordinarily reserved for the fairest of maidens. John Long and I became two of her most ardent suitors.
General Meyers had found a weakness on the slab laying just right of the massive triangular North Face Apron, and had recruited one of my earliest climbing partners, Eric Schoen, to help explore the possibilities. As John will remember, we were together at the base of the Dihardral on Slab Happy Pinnacle when Eric, after sending the crux, uttered the classic "Jams are good, protection's good, I'm coming down!" All other versions credited to someone else are just that. Eric was the original. His mild manner, juxtaposed with an uncanny mantling ability and a herculean build, earned him the nickname "Mellow Brutus".
Eric and George boldly pushed upward little by little following the route as it led them. George's vision was a free climb ascending the entire slab, crossing the old North Face Traverse route, and continuing up the sweeping Northwest Buttress to the highest topout on the most massive Cathedral. An ambitious project for the era. I kept track of their progress as I climbed elsewhere, always pinning GM down for details after one of his skirmishes. Then one day they reached an impass. I don't remember the details, but chances are Mellow Brutus was a little too mellow for the increasing difficulty. General Meyers needed special forces.
George and Eric had pioneered six pitches of increasing difficulty and angle to a lonely belay seemingly within striking distance of a deep corner system leading down 200 feet from the North Face Traverse. Steeper climbing had stopped them, but George believed only a short section remained and that it was doable. I had been hoping for just such an opportunity, and John shared my interest. My regular climbing partner, Mark Chapman also joined the team.
Our plan was to stock the huge ledge on the North Face Traverse with bivy gear to eliminate hauling on the route below, and to have a base camp for the upper thousand feet of rock. That done, we spent the night at the base to get a jump on the first half.
We were immediately impressed by the beauty and boldness of the climbing. George's descriptions of the route deliberately hadn't done it justice, and he reveled in our experience as section after section of perfect stone and variety greeted us. The last pitch they had done was a continuous barrage of technical moves past bolts placed on stances that were difficult just to clip from. It follows a magical line up an otherwise unclimbable section of the wall and as such was used by Jay Smith and Paul Crawford to advance their own route nearly ten years later. It is surely George's best pitch on the rock, and it ends at a small ledge with lower angle rock only 30 steeper and smoother feet higher. I think George had even placed the first bolt on the next lead but was unable to continue.
Somehow the lead fell to me. I cinched my EBs, checked my swami, exited my butt bag, and went. Barely made the moves to the bolt, clipped and started toward the next stance. Thin smeary moves up a small fold in the stone brought me to a meager stance and I made the best of it. 15 minutes later, as I clipped the new splitshank, my toes were experiencing the kind of pressure that turns coal to shining gems. I lowered and handed the sharp end to Largo.
John moved on past my bolt and with his characteristic power and finess surmounted the headwall. Having attained the level of the beginning of the long corner system leading to our plush bivy, John placed a bolt and began the fifty foot traverse. As the three of us craned our necks fom the belay, we watched him steadily move toward easy ground and the skyline. But Middle is full of suprises, and John arrived at a sloper ledge surrounded by featureless rock, with the coveted crack system two feet out of reach. Much hollering ensued and John informed us that it didn't look good, but that he would place a bolt and do what he could. I had seen Largo blast bolt holes in half the normal time before and I always attributed it to his overall mass and thigh size forearms, but this hole was placed with the speed of light.
John's frame was a silhouette on the skyline, the afternoon sun piercing our eyes. When he announced he was going for it, we all hopefully squinted into the sun. A cumulus cloud of chalk dust rose on the updrafts, and John pulled slack, but did not reach higher. His bulk disappeared from the skyline instead, and our moment of confusion was his moment of decision. He suddenly reappeared, arms outstretched, not unlike Superman, flying upward. Another chalk cloud appeared as he slapped the target and swung sideways tugging the rope abruptly. After much cheering, the pitch was ours, and the ledge followed.
Meyers botched it and brought a family size can of some kind of artificial meat for our dinner. The serving suggestion on the label looked good, but it was false advertising. As John said, it might as well have been dog food. It was inexpensive though.
That night we built a big fire with oak branches cleared from our sleeping areas, and cast giant shadows of ourselves up the massive untouched Northwest Buttress of Middle Rock.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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" ...I think the whole approach of running the rope out has been junked as of about 1980 so of course... "
Really?
Tell that to Huber Bros., Yuji and Hans, I could go on.
The guys on the cutting edge could care less about bolts every three meters.
Add bolts to an established testpiece so anyone can do it? You surprise me.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Honolulu
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Please donŽt dumb the routes down with more bolts.Theres so many sad sport routes already.If anything,It sounds by the description of Mother Earth,there might be room for a new,Modern,route nearby.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I'm not particularly happy about adding bolts to Mother Earth, a route done 30 years ago in EBs (non-sticky rubber). Yet there's no indication this route (and probably Black Primo, or Black Rose, as well) will ever see any traffic with the pro as is. Maybe when the old quarter inchers get shorn up it won't be so bad. By and large the hard climbing on Mother Earth is very well protected, but some of the not-so-hard climbing (5.9 and 10a) has thin pro as I rec all. But perhaps I'm wrong about this. Clint and company wll just have to go up (top down) there an d start top roping and see what seems reasonable and take it from there.
JL
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Another good one to rebolt would be Black Rose, aka Black Primo. Work down (climb Quicksilver or Freewheelin') from the ledge. Tha route is the shizzzat and I'll bet it hasn't had an ascent in a decade. Too bad.
JL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2008 - 04:46pm PT
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John,
Black Rose (aka Black Primo), was rebolted in the 1990s, at about the same time as Jigsaw.
Apparently, the original name was Black Primo, but this was (mistakenly) thought to be a drug reference, so it was changed to Black Rose for the 1976 and 1982 Meyers guides? The name was changed back to Black Primo in the 1987 and later guides.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Honolulu
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Why dont the young valley hotshots repeat these routes.Maybe these threads will inspire them like they have me.Tommy??? Dean???I know where IŽd be climbing today if I was in the Valley.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Black Primo is the polished diorite on this fabulous route. Insane friction and little visible until you are right on it!
The route crosses the diorite just above my left shoulder in this photo.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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FYI, Kevin W. placed a bolt on one of the scariest stances I ever saw on a face route, the bolt protecting the crux - and that one might have the steepest crux (a bulge, really) of any of the Middle face lines. I've long since forgotten the moves on many of those old routes but not that one.
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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How about using original stainless SMC hangers for the Mother Earth refit? The restoration concept got lost in the the rock dust and glare when I proposed original equipment for GBG.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2008 - 05:02pm PT
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Steve,
I did use Petzl Coeur hangers on the Space Babble protection bolts, which are similar in size to the SMCs.
Roger is doing almost all the actual replacement on the Middle Cathedral North Face Apron, and he likes using the Fixe hangers with the ASCA stamp. They are a little larger and easier to spot. Middle Earth p2 was mostly (rusty) Leeper hangers, which were at least easy to spot because of their dark color.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The SMC's have a solid performance record, match original hardware and were produced in great quantity. No such option for the Leepers is readily available beyond the ones I make but all SMC's would certainly do. No additional effort is required to install period hardware beyond sourcing the hangers.
Just have to change clips.....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2008 - 03:35pm PT
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Mother Earth rebolting update:
On Saturday 7/12, Bob Steed and I went up the Gunsight with 6 of Roger's ropes, and across the North Face Traverse (with epic hauling through a tree). I replaced the first bolt on p11 (which protects free moves to an aid pitch). We then rapped from that bolt down Mother Earth, leaving fixed ropes for Roger starting near the top of p8. (I'll try to post a separate trip report on this soon).
On Sunday, Roger drove to Yosemite, and hiked up to meet us at around noon. He finished replacing the bolts on Mother Earth p2, and also replaced the bolts and anchor on p3. The rest will follow soon, I'm sure, along with the lower pitches of the Smith-Crawford, etc. Roger has replaced over 120 bolts in his first month this summer.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 14, 2008 - 04:16pm PT
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ThatŽs cool that you guys are going to replace those old coffin nails in Mother Earth. IŽm sort of amazed that you could reverse pitch 8 with that traverse and all. BTW, how did that pitch look? Could you spot the leap? ItŽs been so long I canŽt really remember much, with all the weed we smoked back in the day.
JL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
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John,
The way we rappelled from the North Face Traverse ledge was to go down 190' from the first bolt on p11. This reached a 2' x 20' flat ledge which is a little bit above the top of p8. We placed a new rappel anchor at the left end of this ledge. Normally I avoid placing a new anchor without permission ahead of time, but our original plan to reach/rappel the Smith-Crawford did not work, and we needed some way to get down and reach out left to cover the traverse. From this rappel anchor, we fixed our highest rope. We then rapped it down and left about 180' to a 6" x 4' stance/ledge with the third bolt on p7, where the rightward traverse on p7 starts. I replaced this bolt, and we fixed the next rope to it, and then easily down below it.
Here is how we did it. I can't exactly recommend this as a rappel route at present, since it uses some single bolt anchors.
I looked briefly for your bolt at the right end of the traverse, but did not see it. After finding the bolt on the left end of the traverse and looking at the topo again, I figured it must have been well to the right of where I had been looking. Roger will probably be able to find it.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:16pm PT
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Awesome! Great work everyone. And thanks for keeping Roger busy, he wore us ragged trying to fix lines fast enough for him in Tuolumne!
Steve:
"Clint- those frighteningly thin stainless steel Leeper hanger look alikes were made by Vern Clevenger. Hopefully one or two can make it into Ken's collection as they are pretty unique. Nice work on the bolting. "
My friend Joe and I just pulled one of those off the anchor for Wise Crack a few weeks ago. If Ken needs one I'll get him that one. I know I've seen some before but that anchor is sitting in my truck right now.
As far as using stainless SMCs, we would first want to make sure people are OK with that. Those hangers to have an annoying drawback as far as being able to clip two biners through the hangers (definitely a poor option for belay anchors). The only other problem with them is that they tend to bend easily when placed on overhangs, but that's not an issue here. It may be hard to come up with ones in good shape as well. If people do want those for the hangers on Mother Earth, I sorted through loads of stainless SMC hangers (most of which are 1/4" or 5/16" hole), and most of the 3/8" ones I have are pretty beat-up. Most of my nicer 3/8" hole stainless SMCs are on new routes I did 5-10 years ago. I can switch some out quickly, but a good number are not easily recovered in the summer (Owens, other warm areas). Also, I painted a lot of them tan or grey, which would not be optimal for MC runouts. It'd be nice to find someone with a stash of unused 3/8" hole ss SMCs they were willing to part with.
Anyway, if people really want stainless SMCs on that route, we should make sure Roger uses Petzl hangers since they are about the same thickness as ss SMCs, while the Fixe ones are thicker, making switching the hangers more of a problem.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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Clint,
Thanks to you and partners for all your good work on Middle Cathedral north face apron. Especially good to hear Black Rose was rebolted, one of my favorites on MC. I loved the shiver of the brooding black rock, strong run outs on shady slabs, holds appearing, then disappearing, with the higher big chest of Middle leaning out over you, as if about to intone, "And just what do you think you are doing, speck of flesh!?"
I found some Yosemite giants talked, some brightly and soothingly, some in deep, deep tones of power. For me, the north face of Middle rumbled ...
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Buju
Trad climber
A Sandbar
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Jul 15, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
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Kelley, Bruce, Clint, and Roger...
It was spectacular to have the oppostunity to work with you all that day. unfortunately work has me in the backcountry for the rest of the summer. this fall i would be more than happy to help out some more.
thanks again for the opportunity,
Roger Putnam
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2008 - 04:56pm PT
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Roger,
Thanks for the help! The high point on Quicksilver you reached with Jesse and Megan has been enough to keep Roger Brown busy for many weeks! (penduluming far left and right after I extended the high point by one last thankfully easy pitch).
Have fun in the backcountry.
Clint
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Idaho Falls, ID
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Jul 16, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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My hat is off to Roger Brown [with a back brace] and crew for a job well done. The climbing community will forever reap the rewards of your efforts! Thank you!
Thor
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 17, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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hey Clint, thanks for rebolting Wise Crack! (and all the others too!!)
my notes from 3/03: "not great bolts"
I remember using the crack near those bolts, and the bolts, and hoping my partner wouldn't wip off the 5.10a...
Also, I remember hiking down to the left instead of rapping off the route.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jul 17, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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Clint,
Just got home. There are only 6 more protection bolts left to replace on "Mother Earth" so I guess I blew that one hanger wise:-) I got a question so I will ask it here. From about half way up the 6th pitch there is a line of bolts (at least 1 without a hanger that kinda parallels "Mother Earth" up to where "Smith Crawford" breaks off left. Are these just off route bolts placed by the 1st ascent team as they probed their way upwards? Did the "Smith Crawford" team place these and does thier route actually have its own bolts? Did someone do a direct route from the top of 5 of "Smith Crawford to the top of 7 of "Smith Crawford"? If no one knows the story on them I will just leave them as they are. Also where "Smith Crawford" leaves "Mother Earth" it apears as if the "Smith Crawford team placed their own bolt rather than trust the "Mother Earth" bolt as there are two bolts here. I intend to pull both and only replace one and patch the other hole. The "Mother Earth" bolt will be the one replaced. Is everyone cool with that? Also there were 2 fixed pins backing up the bolt protecting the 5.11c move on the 7th pitch of "Mother Earth". I removed them after replacing the bolt yesterday. Going back on Saturday and will finish "Mother Earth" Sunday. I will leave ropes fixed to the high points to access other stuff.
Roger Brown
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Jul 17, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
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Great work guys, but puh-leeze, protect your eyes from flying rock and metal when you go to pounding drill bits with a hammer! And no, closing your eye lids with each hammer blow does not count as eye protection!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 17, 2008 - 04:14pm PT
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Roger, I do have about a dozen SMC hangers, but I don't know how to get them to you in time ;-)
After ME, what's your schedule??
Man, I can't wait to go and climb some of those beauties!
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jul 17, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
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Kelly,
After ME we will replace everything we can reach from our high points. "Road to Ruin" and "Orange Peel" are now complete thanks to the fine work by Clint and Bob last Sunday. We still have the last 2 pitches of "Exodus" to get to, the last two bolts and anchor of "Tears of Joy" and the anchors of "Home Run" and "5 O'clock Shadow" need to be checked. We will do the first 5 pitches (some we already got) of "Smith Crawford" and what we can get to of "Crazy" There are some short routes in the area we can get also. Then its off to our old friend GPA. We plan to fix to the "Coonyard" then on to the "Oasis". That should keep us busy for the rest of the season. We are pretty flexable, our plans could easily change.
Roger Brown
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jul 19, 2008 - 03:54pm PT
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Clint,
The flake below and left of Kevin is where I was setting up an anchor to position the rope a little better for the two bolts on the 5th pitch when I spotted the hangerless bolt just a little above me. Then I could see 2 more bolts directly above that spaced around 10 feet apart. They were old thin SMC hangers. I had already looked at the 4 "Mother Earth" bolts above the flake on this pitch and they were right where the topo showed them to be. One of them can be seen just to the right and a little above Kevin. The 2 extra bolts were to the left of Kevin. I'll get some pictures of them when I go back up and probably just leave them alone. A little "mystery of history" so to speak :-)
Roger Brown
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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Jul 20, 2008 - 05:47pm PT
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Incredible job Roger, Clint, Bob, and others!
Eric and I are getting fired up by the idea of climbing ME with the new bolts in place. We've been up in Tuolumne for work, and for play for the last week. We established a couple of new climbs on Peak 11,357, (not on the clock!) the forgotten cirque of the Cathedrals above Nelson Lake. Totally awesome out there, and a great alternative to the crowds around Cathedral Peak.
Roger, I'll see you tomorrow for trail work on Middle. Sorry to pull you away from ME for a day. I know you are itching to get back up there.
See ya,
Jesse
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 20, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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Jesse, that would be great if you guys went up there on M.E. after Roger gets through rebolting it and tell us what is actually up there. All of us on the first ascent (30 some years ago) don't have any idea how it fits into modern standards -present-day climbers might find it easy sailing, but I think you would value the moves and the location. Only one way to find out . . .
JL
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Jul 20, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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Dick Cilley said "Why dont the young valley hotshots repeat these routes.Maybe these threads will inspire them like they have me.Tommy??? Dean???I know where IŽd be climbing today if I was in the Valley."
I can't speak for Dean, well actually I can't speak for Tommy either, but I have asked him this very question. He said he was mostly just interested in climbing on the "best rock" and that the sometimes grungy nature of the rock on the south side of the Valley just isn't as appealing to him.
Also, Jesse if you or Eric bail I'd be psyched to jump in. We'd have to climb fast though because I work at 6pm :)
-Justin
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 20, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
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Hard not to fall for such a pretty face! Not much grunge on the routes that I've done.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 14, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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Aha!! I finally found some of the Mother Earth info I was looking for!!
What an inspiration.
My own Middle C. efforts are more limited. DNB in 6 hours with Royster in 1980, Central Pillar, East Butt. and some dabbling on low pitches.
But it is interesting to read here about Black Rose/Primo also.
I think I did the 3rd or 4th ascent with Kim Carrigan in 79?
It may not have been the 3rd, but I'm sure Carrigan advertised it to me that way.
He was having trouble finding a partner, and I had the face climbing rep among the Oregon gang. We swung leads equally, but he led the crux.
It got chilly when we finished in the shade and the wind picked up, so I ended up wearing his super-ghey frilly shirt on the rap down....I wish I could forget.
Thanks for a great thread.
Edit: Ninja chimp said Tommy or Dean referred to it as "grungy" over there?? Hruumph.. Anyone who has climbed over there can tell you there's PLENTY of quality stone. I think Largo said "only one way to find out..."
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Feb 14, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Great thread! I was never much of a face climber but boy these look like good adventures! Thanks to the team for the rebolting, a great service.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
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Somehow during the summer I got far behind with posting photos.
Here are several more from July 12-13 with Bob Steed, and one from July 23 with John Imbrie:
Bob Steed, partway up the Gunsight, festooned with 4 of Roger's ropes. I had 2 ropes and other stuff in a big pack, and I couldn't keep up.
Bob has scrambled up the Gunsight and over to the start of the 5th class on the Middle Cathedral North Face Traverse.
Bob has led halfway across the traverse to a bush belay, with all those ropes still tied around him.
Partway across the crux on the traverse, looking back towards Bob. Fortunately Eric Gable had been in the area and had replaced some of the key bolts. There was a comical soft steel fixed pin near the start which I clipped, but Bob cleaned by jerking it out.
It took me a combined 3 hours to lead and haul this pitch, mainly due to the epic haul of 5 knotted ropes and a pack through an unfriendly tree. Finally Bob got to follow.
Bob starting across the crux.
Bob at the end of the traverse, now above the lower part of Mother Earth. We realized at this point that our original plan to continue to the top of the Smith-Crawford was not so good, as our rack was minimal and the next pitches looked harder.
We replaced the first protection bolt on the upper part of Mother Earth, so we could rap from it.
After a 55m rap, we were on a nice ledge with no fixed anchor in sight, so we chose to place a new rappel anchor near the left end of the ledge. We tied Roger's 6 ropes together and fixed them to this anchor.
After another 55m diagonal rappel left, we could not reach the bolted anchor below the crux pitch on Middle Earth, so I replaced the bolt at the start of the traverse, which was at a good stance.
Nice long bolt, but ready for an upgrade.
We rapped down Mother Earth in the dark, anchoring Roger's ropes at each fixed station, until we reached the top of p2, where Eric Bissell and I had already fixed 2 ropes to the ground.
On Sunday, Bob and I went up Roger's fixed ropes on Orange Peel / Exodus, to try to advance the high point on those routes.
Bob did a bold combination free/aid manuver to get to the top of Orange Peel. He tensioned off the red rope to the Orange Peel corner, then liebacked holding the rope, with his feet on the corner/arete. He managed to reach the anchor and replaced it.
"Where's Roger?"
(Already up on the 8 fixed ropes on Mother Earth, busy replacing bolts).
At the same time, I went to the top of Quicksilver and rapped down Roger's fixed lines to the left, where I managed to tension over to the top of Road to Ruin.
The Road to Ruin anchor had two 3/8" Rawldrives (split shaft), so I replaced the hanger on the right one. The left one was more rusted, and it sheared off when I was trying to remove the nut. (Unfortunately I hadn't thought to bring 3-in-1 oil with me). So I drilled a new hole to replace it. At this point the clouds opened up and I got a bit wet....
After I got down from Road to Ruin, we met up with Roger, and I delivered the new Hurricane Wilderness drill holder generously donated from Bruce Hildenbrand to him. Compare with his old one, which had shortened about an inch due to peening from replacing hundreds of bolts. It had long since gone beyond the old cable groove, and Roger even had to shorten its rubber grip and he didn't have much left to hang onto!
John Imbrie on Exodus, 7/23/08. I'm "leading" by running a miniTraxion up Roger's fixed line. I couldn't lead this like Ryan did - that takes talent and commitment.
Eventually I was able to repeat Bob's runout tension/lieback manuver from 7/13, to reach the top of Orange Peel (we had forgotten to leave the fixed rope clipped there). I then led an easy traverse across to the very top of Exodus, where we fixed a rope so Roger could replace the bolts in its final pitch.
By the way, Roger did find the "5.12 or leap" at the end of the Mother Earth traverse - he has photos and the bolt which protected that move.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 14, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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Thanks Clint. Nice!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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Great job guys! Can't wait to give ME a go with the new steel!
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Feb 19, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Finally getting around to finishing up my 2008 report to the ASCA.
Here is the North Apron part.
Ramer, All Bolts Replaced
Spank Your Monkey, All Bolts Replaced
Road To Ruin, All Bolts Replaced
Ticket To Nowhere, All Bolts Replaced
Quicksilver, All Bolts Replaced
Walk Of Life, All Bolts Replaced
Freewheeling, All Bolts Replaced *
Bottom Feeder, All Bolts Replaced
Cat Dancing, All Bolts Replaced
Orange Peel, All Bolts Replaced
Exodus, All Bolts Replaced
Tapestry, All Bolts Replaced
Five O'Clock Shadow, All Bolts Replaced
Home Run, All Bolts Replaced
Desperate For Doughnuts, All Bolts Replaced
Ennui, All Bolts Replaced
That'll Teach You, All bolts Replaced
Crazy, All Bolts To The Top Of The Fourth Pitch Only
Smith/Crawford, All Bolts To The Top Of The Fifth Pitch And First Bolt Of Sixth Pitch Only.
Mother Earth, All Bolts To The Top Of The Tenth Pitch And The First Bolt Of The Eleventh Pitch Only.
The Following Folks Worked With Clint And I On The Project:
Jesse McGahey
Megan McGahey
Roger Putman
Eric Bissel
Kelly Rich
Bruce Bundy
Ryan Mattock
Micheal Flood
John Imbrie
A Total Of 270 Bolts Were Replaced
Special Thanks To Bruce Hildenbrand For his Donation Of A Like New Wilderness Drill Holder
* The First Three Pitches Of This Route Had Been Previously Been Replaced.
Roger Brown
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 19, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
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Roger Brown you have influenced alot of people in this climbing community. You really are an important icon for me.
thank-you!
hope to help you this summer.
Ryan and Emma
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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Roger,
You're a force of nature!! If any of us tried to do this, we might last for about 20 bolts over a few days. But you show up in a back brace and rebolt your way through rehab! 330+ bolts later in 2 months spread around another injury rehab, you decide to take a break and start working long hard hours in construction....
We're all ready to help out, just say when!
P.S. Way, way up high on the helpers list is Jesse. He made a huge difference by getting Roger registered as a volunteer, so that he did not have to waste a lot of time and gas camping out at Crane Flat. Plus he organized a big posse of psyched climbers for leading / fixing ropes on Roger's first day of rebolting! That was awesome.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
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Man, you guys rock. Now I have no excuses for not dragging my fat, lethargic A#@ up there.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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Thanks Roger and Clint!!!!
Also thanks to the rest of you that helped.
Jeff
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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Climbing mag or whoever it is, get it together and award a golden piton - no make that platinum - to Roger in a special category of selfless service to the whole climbing community. Unbelievable, no amount of thanks is enough for you and all the rest who rebolt routes for all the lazy asses like myself who just climb them (if we even get that motivated!). Thanks, thanks, thanks. Free beverage of your choice, anytime.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 19, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
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Classic routes long dead have been resurrected thanks to Rodg., Clint and their many friends.
Very nicely done! Yomens work to be sure.
JL
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 19, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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What a renewal. Thanks Roger and Clint and crew.
All the best,
The-safe-and-warm-at-home-Roger
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 23, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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bump for climbing
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Dublin,Ca.
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Jan 24, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
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Just for the record. I did not add or replace the bolts on the Middle Cathedral North Face Traverse. When I did it in early to mid 2000, there were no bolts, just the old piton that you guys pulled out (more out than in). We did about a dozen hook moves through that section. We did the route from the Gunsight to the Middle Cathedral Decent Gully and had an incredible day on an old and forgotten natural passage. Although you found the new bolts useful, I can't begin to tell you how much they offend me. They have ruined a great section of an existing established route. Although few people probably would ever do this route, it is no excuse for it to be ruined for the few who would aspire to take on the challenge. This is a historical route from the early days in Yosemite climbing. 5.8, A3. Dick Long, George Mandatory, Jack Davis and Bob Skinner, July 1954. Why don't the bolters just sh#t on the first ascensionist. These bolts should be removed! I suspect that these were added for easier access to a new 5.12 bolted face climb on Middle Cathedrals North/West Buttress (but I don't now that for fact). Although this section probably goes free at 5.10, it is not an excuse to deface an existing route. I hope that the climbing community will not let shameful actions like this stand - Eric Gabel- By the way, I have nothing but respect for Rodger, Clint, Bob and any others who have participated in the replacement of bolts on existing routes.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 24, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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Fixing that line was one of the highlights of early season 2008. Great work Roger!!!
-Roger Putnam
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 03:24am PT
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Eric,
Sorry I guessed (wrongly) that the new bolt was something you had replaced.
I should have checked with you first before posting that, or at a minimum made it clear it was just my guess.
I knew you had done the route,
and I knew you wouldn't add a bolt.
I think you are right - it was probably added when Border Country crossed it right about there.
 Clint
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 19, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
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rebolting...
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Oct 21, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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Sorry Eric and Clint. Your assumptions are wrong about me placing the bolts on the traverse. I think they might of been there before I did Border Country. I have no idea why they are there and they aren't used for BC.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 21, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
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Hi Mikey,
Sorry for implying that you may have placed those bolts. I'm very glad to hear it wasn't you. I guess the timing was close to when your route went up, so I assumed it had something to do with that. Once again, my sincere apology.
When we originally went across the traverse, my partner was following my lead when a hold broke on a free move. The hold smashed him in the head, he took a winger, and was caught by a sky hook. This was the first sky hook of several in a row. Not sure what would have happened if that one had blown. He had blood all over his head, but was fine. We had such a grand day that I'll never forget. The exposure in the middle of that face is incredible, as I'm sure you know.
Your routes look awesome buy the way, nice job and nice style on the FA.
- Eric Gabel
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 21, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
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great thread. I'd much rather follow this than some of the other valley threads right now.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
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Thanks for the correction, Mikey.
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| Messages 1 - 71 of total 71 in this topic |
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