Nose Rack 1979


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F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
road to recovery
Aug 7, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
Our 1975 rack,

I think all the pins slowed us down, plus the homemade haulbag had big holes in it my the end of p 1. Only to be a whippersnapper once again!

The photo reminds me of one of Robbins Nose rack photo's minus the nuts

Where I once was,I think?
Aug 7, 2008 - 06:52pm PT
More Photos Please !

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 7, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
I'm still impressed as hell.
You guys are unbelievable.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 7, 2008 - 09:14pm PT
I guess you guys didn't take any solar-powered showers, then?

Great thread! Keep 'em coming. What?! Only four thousand slides? Thought you guys did lots of climbing?

When are you coming back for another go at the Big Stone? See you in the fall?


Aug 8, 2008 - 04:08am PT
Clint - you said a couple of times that your leg hauling system is a 2:1 - actually it is a 1:2 (foot goes down 1', bag comes up 2').

This system is often used in racing sail boats, and would make hauling faster (if you have the leg power).

Did you find it just too cumbersome? Is that the main disadvantage?



Social climber
Prescott, AZ
Aug 8, 2008 - 03:04pm PT

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 12, 2009 - 01:05am PT
Dragging it out of the archives.
I love it!
The year after Lesher and I did a clean "hammerless" ascent.
It was a great adventure, all the way around.

Feb 12, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
BFD. Gagner and I did the Nose in June 1979 with a double hex rack and double stopper rack. No friends or pins.
Incidentally Gagner didn't sh#t for the entire route (2 1/2 days) but exploded on top.

'cross the great divide
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
Mr. Hudon, (That seems to be the only way I can address you after all the years of inspiration you have provided, even though you're probably not much older than I.) I have a question about scanning that photo.

You seem to have scanned the slide into digital format without everything being blue. I got a slide scanner for Christmas, and just can't get the color of the digital slide to be true to the color of the original slides. Do you have any recommendations about that?

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
That was nice of him not to sh#t.

wbw, You have to play with the white balance on your scanner. On my scanner software I'm able to choose between Echtachrome and Kodachrome. Echtachrome will be way blue. It might be worth it to buy the scanner controls from these guys: It might give you way more control over your scanner than you have right now.

BTW, no Mr. please, I'm just a regular ol dirtbag like anyone else.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 12, 2009 - 03:38pm PT ol' dirtbag,

Glad you found your old thread here. After, the shameless self thread bumpers thread, I decided to seek out a few from other folks to bump!

We may need to get back to you on that slide scanner expertise.
An old friend and I were just talking about getting a slide scanner as that would "bump" up our contributions quite a bit.

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
Old school rack bump

Feb 25, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
Boy - this thread brings back memories.

Rick Harlan and I did the Nose in May 1979. Our tactic was to go fast, and light, and for some reason we didn't have any Friends yet - we were probably too poor. We didn't have any pins or hammer, just two sets of stoppers and hexes. I still remember doing dicey, weird stacks on Boot Flake and on the pitch above the Glowering Spot - both of which are wicked parallel. We were pretty much aiding and not freeing too much.

Also we only took two ropes - I'm not sure why. On the 4th class pitch below Camp 4 we just dropped the haul bag, even though the belays are horizontal to each other, since we didn't have a rope to lower the bag out - ha, ha - got a few holes in the bag on that one, but I think the water bottles survived somehow.

The bummer was the three European climbers (2 guys and a gal) who were in front of us trying to jug with a pack, and moving exceedingly slow; and they wouldn't let us pass. Because of this we bivied on the 4th class ledge below Camp 4 the first night (we had fixed to Sickle) and then at Camp 6 the second night with the next pitch fixed. We were off early the next day. I still think we could have easily done the route in two days if we hadn't gotten hung up behind this slower party.

And to think the Nasal Passage is crowded now....


Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Feb 25, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
Mark, going back to the first gear pic... I've seen bigger racks on the Nutcracker! Way to get to the minimum and make it work!

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 29, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
Bump it up.
More climbing
More satisfying!

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 2, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
Bump Mark's story up there again--great adventure!!!!

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Apr 8, 2009 - 11:43am PT
This is the goods
Oso Flaco

Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
Jun 22, 2014 - 08:35am PT
Planning on doing The Nose on July 4th weekend this year. Thanks for the inspiration to go light, however, that amount of water sounds absurd. What happened? Seems like everyone is soft now compared to the past era...or maybe just better equipped and wiser from hearing stories like this.
Messages 61 - 78 of total 78 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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