Nose Rack 1979


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Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2008 - 12:07am PT
A pig? No hammocks, of course not.

Here is a shot of Max a little bit below camp 6. That pack is the size of a medium/small average everyday cargging pack. We had two of them. They were specially made for us by Victor Marcus who owned Strawberry Mountain Company.


Trad climber
London, UK
Jun 27, 2008 - 02:35am PT
Nose Rack 1981

Pretty similar to Mark's:

11 Friends (2 x number 4 - not as confident on the wider stuff)
6 nuts on rope
1 set Rocks
1 set RPs
 quick-draws (quick draws hadn't reached the UK)
24 free 'biners
2 pairs of aiders
2 pairs of Petzl ascenders

Troll haulbag - backpack size - about 70 litres?

I think this was a fairly typical rack for the time, I don't recall that we were especially trying to shave the grams. We didn't have much else we could have taken. Gear was more expensive in 1981, relative to the cost of beer.

We made a 2 bivi ascent, second man jugging and not at free as Mark and Max of course.

Simon (in yellow) has climbed 5.14 and did the Bob Graham Round two weeks ago in 22 hours 30 minutes. I had a strong partner!

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 27, 2008 - 08:44am PT
Pig is slang for a haulbag.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 27, 2008 - 08:57am PT

Maybe 2-3 pitches above Camp 6?
It looks like the 5.8 section near the end of p31 in the 1982 Meyers topo. (But I could be wrong)

Beautiful spot.

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Jun 27, 2008 - 08:58am PT
Mark, I climbed for a decade in a Strawberry Mountain swami belt, including using it on the Regular Route on Half Dome.

I still have the Mountain Magazine article "Art of the States" that inspired me to push myself to my personal limits; the fact that you and Max were from NH made me realize that anything was possible.


Social climber
My Inner Nut
Jun 27, 2008 - 09:38am PT
Thanks for a great thread, Mark. Looking forward to more scans 'n stories!

Erik Wolfe
Tony Puppo

Jun 27, 2008 - 10:30am PT
Hey Mark, I was that guy with a chick, Janet Wilts. You guts were flying. It was super hot and we really wanted to give y'all some water and in the end we topped out, 6.5 days not too bad we thought. Didn't you break your wrist swinging into a corner down low?
Dave Johnson

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 27, 2008 - 10:39am PT
Just think how much faster you would have climbed if you guys had a thermos of Hood River Coffee; probably would have been the 3rd or 4th NIAD!

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jun 27, 2008 - 10:43am PT
Just bass Add!

Trad climber
Jun 27, 2008 - 10:46am PT
Absolutely unbelievable. Just too cool and very inspirational.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2008 - 11:07am PT
Tony, That's so funny! after all these years... I don't think I broke it but it bothered me for quite a while after that.

That story is: I had belayed at the very top of Sickle ledge, Max swung over and climbed up to Dolt Hole, not placing any gear at all. I lowered out the bag, Max hauled it and then took up the rope. I unclipped from the anchor and yelled up to Max "I think I'll just slide over". Max said "are you sure?" I let go and was immediately "sliding" way faster than I wanted to and crashed into the corner. I really jambed my wrist but at the anchor I just wrapped it real tight with some tape and continued on.
We passed some guys there in Dolt Hole, we passed them so fast that they got bummed out and rapped off!

Tony, do you remember those four BASE jumpers that next morning?

Max is from Nevada, I'm the New Hampshire boy.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 27, 2008 - 01:55pm PT
Nice thread Mark. I still don't understand how everyone managed to get by on so little water. I think everyone used the two quarts per day rule.

The few times I have become fatigued due to dehydration never happened on a long climb. Good thing, too.
Jimmy S

Granite State
Jun 27, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
Very cool Mark.
"Long Hard and Free" was inspirational to me and my buddies in the 80's. I really liked the Free as can be mind set. Start at the bottom, go to the top. Free as much as possible. "No need to get crazy about it". Get that scanner cranking!
Jim Surette
North Conway
Tony Puppo

Jun 27, 2008 - 03:56pm PT
Yeah the base jumpers scared the hell out of us. They opened up just above us and I remember saying to them you guys are crazy and their reply of "no you guys are the crazy ones!"
Double D

Jun 27, 2008 - 06:43pm PT
Sweet post Mark. No jumars? Ho Man!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 27, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
Thanks for the story, and pictures - very nice! Was it your first ascent of the Nose?

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 27, 2008 - 08:07pm PT

"They were specially made for us by Victor Marcus who owned Strawberry Mountain Company"

any historical information for us, Mark?

Strawberry was cool :)

Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 28, 2008 - 02:03am PT
What a great thread - hard to wrap the mind around the information you're giving us. Way out there!

Somewhere buried on this site is a pic that Chris Mac posted of the rack Caldwell used on the Nose the day he freed it and the Salathe. That was an anemic rack, but if we strike the pins, yours may be smaller.

Seven quarts of water is a pittance!


From Chris Mac:

Caldwell's rack:

1 each really small cams
2 each .75"- 2.5" (small blue camalot to gold gold camalot)
1 # 3 (the blue camalot)
1 # 4 (the gray camalot)
1 # 6 (the really big green camalot)

4 stoppers (but i dont think he placed a single one)

8 draws

6 long slings

1 60m 10mm rope

And another rack McNamara used on a speed ascent of the Nose:

PS: here was our rack

8 stoppers
1 purple/blue alien
1 green alien
1 yellow alien
1 yellow/red alien
2 red aliens
2 orange aliens
2 red camlots (#1)
1 gold camalot (#2)
1 blue camalot (#3)
1 gray camalot (#4)

I take more than all of these combined when I go up single pitch climbs.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 28, 2008 - 03:29am PT
The rack quoted above for Tommy is for Freerider, not for the Nose or Salathe'. No way would Tommy take a #6 up the Nose!

Jun 28, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
Clint Cummins,

I don't understand the loop on the carbiner? That
does not provide a mechanical advantage.

I did not like "-> stitch plates?" due to rope twist
when used for rappel so I did stay with a figure 8
for both belays and rappels.
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