Dihedral Wall clean- TR

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 54 in this topic

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Niko

climber

Agoura Hills, CA

Jun 25, 2008 - 01:37am PT

Great job, but where are the pictures of you getting down?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 13, 2008 - 01:33am PT

Great TR! Way to work it out up there and not pound. Leaves a satisfying feeling to take nothing away from the route but the smiles in your snapshots. Good job!

dogtown

climber

Where I once was,I think?

Aug 13, 2008 - 02:46am PT

Way cool TR. thanks.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Aug 13, 2008 - 02:52pm PT

Neat report, congrats on a fine job!

Lambone

Ice climber

Ashland, Or

Aug 13, 2008 - 06:15pm PT

If you guys are still following this thread, wondering if you did standard hauls through the last chimney pitches or monkeyed the bags up some other way? Just curious. I think it's cool you did the full route. Congrats!

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Aug 13, 2008 - 09:02pm PT

Sweet!

Buckwheat

Big Wall climber

No. Cal

Aug 14, 2008 - 06:10pm PT

Encouraging!!!

cragnshag

Social climber

san joser

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 07:01pm PT

We hauled the final chimneys. It was not too bad- I hauled whilst Chris unstuck the bags on her way up. At one point the bags dislodged a block that almost clobbered her. Took all day to get from xgiving to the top and we were a bit parched.

nutjob

Stoked OW climber

San Jose, CA

Aug 14, 2008 - 08:51pm PT

This is pretty inspirational, good stuff!

Bldrjac

Ice climber

Boulder

Aug 14, 2008 - 10:14pm PT

Great job on doing such a proud ascent. I agree with Piton Ron.
THIS is the way to climb El Cap; CLEAN!! Thanks for the TR

JACK

Lost Arrow

Trad climber

The North Ridge of the San Fernando

Aug 15, 2008 - 08:19pm PT

Cool tr

Lost Arrow

Trad climber

The North Ridge of the San Fernando

Aug 16, 2008 - 06:10pm PT

Bump

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 17, 2008 - 02:02am PT

The Dihedral Wall is definitely a line! Lots of awkward left-handed nailing back in the day. Much more fun without the mallet.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Aug 17, 2008 - 03:18am PT

Clean walls are proud. Nice job!

Looks like so many classic lines and cracks from far away but pretty grassy up close. How was the munge factor compared to other el cap routes?

Peace

Karl

Chris C

climber

Sep 9, 2008 - 04:24am PT

Hi,

Thanks for all your encouragement! Life's been a bit crazy this summer, but I thought I should finally set the record straight.

First, Bob did an amazing job, leading all those pitches! Except for the 4th pitch, the one where I took a whipper. Yes, I can say I have now jumared almost all of El Cap. It would have been nice to have had time to lead more, but Bob did a great job leading under those sweltering conditions, which was a ton of work.

Clint and Bob are right, I was back cleaning quite a bit. The things that popped were 1) blue alien that came out, 2) sheared the pin, 3) blew the copperhead. Landed like Bob said on another blue alien. It was a totally clean fall (very steep!) so it was no problem to finish it except I had to figure out how to get up past the fixed gear which took some time. Sorry again for the delay which did not help with the water situation.

The scariest moment was actually near the top when (yes, we were doing standard hauls through the chimney), I was on my jumars and a block the size of a laptop sailed at me. Fortunately I saw it at the last moment and I was able to deflect the flat side coming at my face, but it knocked me off my jumars and I hate to think what would have happened if I hadn't seen it in time or it hadn't been so geometrically advantageous. I put on my helmet for the last pitch.

Since right before Dihedral, I had to move out of my house, grade a final, and e-mail in my own final exam for a class from Yosemite Lodge at around 4a, following which I hiked up my load to the base of Dihedral around 6a, I was grateful to actually get some sleep on the wall...! Only once we got down, I didn't get very much again before I had to be down at Whitney Portal. But, once I arrived, Sarah made me take a day off before we hiked up to Upper Boy Scout and that kind of easy mountaineering is possible even if you are moving slowly. So there were no heroic ascents of any sort, at least not in comparison to Eric's free solo of East Buttress on Whitney. Eric and Sarah were great company and put up with my post-wall state of fatigue, so I have to thank them for their patience!

I have not gotten to do so much climbing this summer since then - a couple days out at Baihe outside of Beijing. Right now I'm in Yangshuo trying to rustle up some partners so definitely e-mail me if you know of anyone who can go out in the next week!
tradgirl@gmail.com

Chris