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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 12:27am PT
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Right on Holly, way to go!!!
I remember you talking about doing the Shield while we were at Coilers. I figured you'd do it sometime this month but when Tom posted that you guys were up there the very next week, I was like DAMN!! That girl doesn't waste any time!!
You're coming up on about 20 El Cap ascents by now, right? Way to bring the female pride to Monkeyland!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 21, 2008 - 12:31am PT
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Well, Pete, I have I real problem with people that use rationalizations like: "if it required a hammer then its not clean so even if it HAS been done without hammering then I get to beat on it".
Fer chrissakes just document the minimal number of fixed anchors required to do it hammerless, maintain them, and save the route.
It used to be "traditional" to shoot at buffalo from trains.
Where are they now?
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:28am PT
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Excellent TR!! You ladies are mighty impressive, and I really enjoyed getting to tag along for the ride -- if only vicariously. That photo you took looking down at Lorna just about the Shield roof is one of the most dramatic I've seen. Congrats on the climb and thanks for posting up.
Oh, and Ron, the buffalo are on the grill...right where they're supposed to be.
Ed
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:39am PT
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"Fer chrissakes just document the minimal number of fixed anchors required to do it hammerless, maintain them, and save the route."
Concur. Good idea.
Incidentally, for one who has taken offense to anti-Jewish stuff on line, you might want to watch your use of anti-Christian wording, eh?
Cheers,
PTL and PTPP
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:40am PT
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Nice work ladies! Fantastic trip report Holly. That headwall is a special and fabulous place to visit.
We watched you climb on the headwall from the meadow. It is cool to find out what happend up there with the whole fat lip thing. We couldn't figure out what was going on up there that afternoon. It is fun to read first hand and see pictures of that event and the whole climb for that matter.
Best Regards
T2
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captain chaos
climber
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Jun 21, 2008 - 02:33am PT
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Two back to back, cool... good job girls-
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 21, 2008 - 03:54am PT
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Rad ascent, good job! Gives me goosebumps... Can't wait to get on it (soon!)
-as far as the other stuff goes-
The ladies were up front and honest about hammer placements, that seems leaps and bounds ahead of others. I think as long as you are honest about what you do and climb clean to the best of your ability thats more than enough. After spending time in Zion I saw first hand what nailing does to routes, albeit in an accelerated bubble. It sucks. Theres a lot of rock out there that doesn't get the traffic, so I guess if it really bugs you head to a route thats not a trade route, or something. Just my measly 2 cents as a wall n00b.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 21, 2008 - 09:02am PT
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My apologies to Pete (and others offended), but note the misspelling which was deliberately done.
(for Jahweh's sake just doesn't seem to trip off the tongue quite as well, lol)
GD,
I'm not trying to escape the scarring, but rather trying to rein it in.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 21, 2008 - 09:05am PT
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I agree Ron, and I'm glad it was you who brought it up... always been at the forefront of route preservation, so its good input. (and the shield might be the best example)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 21, 2008 - 09:08am PT
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Shit!
THAT was fast.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 21, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Great TR ladies and a proud send.
Did that route in the mid-70s when there were no pin scars and I remember thinking, this thing might get pinned out some day but the exposure will always be here. Get's my blood flowing just looking at those pics . . .
JL
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Thank you John. That was all I was really trying to say, didn't really want to get into another squabble.
But that route is so special, such a definitive aid climb, that it would speak well of climbers if we made the effort to make it last.
I think that Charlie Porter may have ushered in a whole new take on more subtle routefinding that helped others run with the ball, a watermark ascent.
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apogee
climber
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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Well done! Looks like good fun was had by both of you, which really is the point, eh?
I did the Shield about 10 years ago, around the time of the first 'clean' ascent, and after returning, got lots of questions about whether I did it 'clean', too, since that was now the standard for the Shield. Yeah, right. Now that the Nose has been freed, it should only be done free, too. Umm, yeah.
There is Ideal, then there is Real. Routes that are done at higher standards give us all higher aspirations, and those who bring those standards truly amaze me. I will probably never do the Shield truly clean (however that is defined), or free the Nose, but if I do it again, I will try hard as hell to aspire to the newer, higher standard.
Kudos to you both for your success, your honesty, and the smiles on your faces throughout (even with a fat lip). This gives us all something to aspire to!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
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Nice one Holly.
But what about this: "so much for saying I never drop stuff."
Shoe / NA?
Congrats on the new house and another lap on the Capt.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
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Lol, its ok Ron. I woke up at 530 am to go to work in Idyllwild. but i am fast.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 21, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Blew me away!
I only wish more climbers understood the difference between "style" and "ethics".
But I'm tired of harping; my views are known. Cool climb ladies, catcha later.
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jenren
Trad climber
Sac, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
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THANK YOU HOLLY!!
We are grounded by injury this week..your TR brightened our day!
Thanks so much for sharing..your efforts are so appreciated and enjoyed! : )
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
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What a great report! Your photos are just too great!
Thank you for sharing... Loved it!
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Jun 21, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
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I got the biggest kick out of the people caught sleeping.
Not once, but twice!
High elevation voyerism.
Never seen that before. Being caught going to the bathroom would be a real nightmare, but what are you going to do, traverse over and steal the camera?
At least you did not post the names to the lazy climbers, shame on them!
Good editing, smooth story line.
Interesting, part of the lyrics for The Shield, for which I am guessing the climb was named:
"Mama plays a queen on the hill built on a dream
While the children play in the field
Papa smokes the pipe of a sweet and better life
But how strong is the shield?
Can peace be found on the carpet above ground
Where sky is forever blue
So let it pass baby now, the slow and riding cloud
Which may take me from you"
Question 1: How did you traverse from crack to crack at the Triple Cracks?
I am guessing a small swing?
Question 2:
Where do I buy these heavy duty quick draws:
I like the bigger straps.
Question 3:
What would be a good way to handle s a slippery bottle of sunscreen while hanging out at 2000 feet?
Thanks!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
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Dr. Rock,
> I got the biggest kick out of the people caught sleeping.
> Not once, but twice! High elevation voyerism. Never seen that before.
Then you haven't seen Pete up there?
A year ago, my partner and I were sleeping at the Alcove on the Salathe' (same spot in Holly's photo) until around noon. There were several good reasons for it. We were behind 2 parties, waiting to do the long p19 above the Ear. We didn't get to start p19 until around 2am! Being tired due to the late hour, my partner took an occasional rest on lead which may have been naps. I was napping even more at the belay. Dawn broke as I started to follow. After we did p20 to the Alcove, we settled in for some sleep. We realized we wouldn't be able to go to the Block that night anyway, because I didn't think there was room for 4. So we caught up on sleep, fixed 2 above the Spire, and had the nice bivvy on the Spire that night.
> Question 1: How did you traverse from crack to crack at the Triple Cracks?
I am guessing a small swing?
There are bolts between the cracks. See the topo or other Shield photos.
> Question 2:
Where do I buy these heavy duty quick draws:
I like the bigger straps.
Petzl and others make those.
http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/biners/petzlspiritcarabiners.html
http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Petzl/idesc/Spirit+Quickdraw++%2D+17cm/Store/MG/item/111390/N/1030
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