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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
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… A short trip report on some happenings during the "Age of the Batholith"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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A 3’ x 6’ proclamation adorning a bar front in Missoula sets the tone:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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My first-order business was to seek consultation with Boulder's premier naturopath physician… who happens to practice in Montana.
So I flew to Missoula and expected to rent a real Montana truck (for max poseur factor);
You know, something big, man-sized, maybe with four wheels on the rear axle and great big mud flaps.
But the nice lady at that Hertz desk saw I was from Boulder so she instead fit me out with this Prius:
(oh well…)
Turns out the doc I was going to see lives at the mouth of Blodgett Canyon.
I had wanted to check this place out since John Harlan III included it in his comprehensive guides.
And I had just two hours to conduct a recon…
So this is the first person I met in Montana after I left the airport, on the way into Blodgett:
Then I met these guys:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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On the trail into Blodgett sits this commemoration to a smoke jumper who died working a big blaze outside of Glenwood Springs Colorado:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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Blodget really has the stuff.
A half-dozen granite towers, each laced with multi-pitch 5.10 crack climbs.
This is the first pair that comes into view,
From the East after less than a mile of walking:
And the same group from the West:
And some independent views of these initial towers:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
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The premier group in Blodgett Canyon is the trio of Flathead, Shoshone, and Nez Perce:
Flathead:
Shoshone:
Nez Perce:
Sadly, or not so depending on your viewpoint… I had to beat it out of there and get to my appointment.
But with just a little bit of hiking on a low angle trail I was able to scope some super cool Montana stone!!!
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Jun 20, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
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More!
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:29pm PT
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That's all I have on Blodgett Prod.
As I stood there on the trail gawking at Flathead, Shoshone, and Nez Perce at 2:30 in the afternoon (prior to my four o'clock appointment),
Two wiry guys with lean climbing packs came bounding up the trail behind me:
They asked me if it was the first time I'd seen it, then without missing a beat...
'Dudes grinned and set off down to the creek crossing and bounded up the talus toward Shoshone for an afternoon ascent.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 20, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
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Wonderful stuff, Tar.
Welcome home--I hope there are more pics from
the batholith yet. . .
:-)
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Jun 20, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
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Beautiful pictures, Tar! Looks like stellar conditions!
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Jun 20, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Blodgett is awesome and the campsite is great, but it's adventure climbing out there. Some of the worst bushwhacking I've ever been a party to was getting to the base of and off of routes in that area. Still great stuff, but ho man, the climbs were only about half the battle.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Gotta give big credit to this fellow, Kevin Hutchinson aka Mojede.
He's put a lot into this gathering (still is as we speak) and he graciously picked me up at the airport so I could save my arms from the driving duties.
There's lots of boulders to hang on to in them hills!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
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Alas, Landgolier is correct in his assessment of Blodgett.
Those approaches (and descents) look horrendous, folks best stay away...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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And yes Clint,
Poor looking rock too.
I ain't never goin' back...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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So much for that risqué alpine granite.
On to the site of the party, bouldering, cragging.
Pat and Tom Kingsbury, and Dominic:
Big Thanks to These Guys for Hosting!!!
Liz in the blue, and friend:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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Mojede, with protégés Ladd and Lyddie:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:17pm PT
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Here's Mark:
And here's Mark on rock, June 14 2008, just a couple of days after a big snowstorm:
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jun 20, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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Tarbuster, Balm in Gilead....to the eyes and the soul. lynne
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
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Hi Lynne!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:31pm PT
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Pat on Recoil, The Bullet Boulder:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
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Tom enjoying a snack:
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 20, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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I did a few routes in Blodgett 20+ years ago and found lots of fun and excitement. The Afterburner had its moments, not so much on the 5.10 crux but on the runout 5.9+ to get up it. Want to go back someday.
Missoula is kind of out of place, more like a liberal California town surrounded by redneck conservatism. Course most of Alberta is as far right as Montana and we know how to 4WD too!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 20, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Wow - beautiful stuff. Thanks for posting it -
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
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Saturday was a big day.
After a bunch of bouldering in the morning, plus some routes...
We headed to camp for a break and saw this fellow along the way:
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Jun 20, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
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WHOA!
That's a good one.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jun 20, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
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Hi back atcha Mr. T. So, tell me, did ST's most famous detective solve any mysteries while on sabbatical? lrl
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 20, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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Nothing like the beautiful Great Gray owl.
I've seen a few in Yellowstone, what a beautiful bird!
I'm also quite amazed it was out in broad daylight.
I thought they were more nocturnal beings.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 20, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
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Nice pix. The horse is really cool. And America needs more chubby Vikings dressed in orange and cowboys dressed in pink.
Sorry bout the Prius.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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The afternoon bouldering session on Saturday, day one of the gathering, took place in a beautiful kletter garden.
It was a lush amphitheater rimmed with dark granite boulders and sinewy aspen.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
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The coolest event of the day, for me, was this ascent of "The Tominator".
A large granite egg sheathed in coarse black granite; this thing required a powerful entry and committing follow-through.
The ground sloped down away from the base at quite an angle as Mr. Kingsbury "Tominated" the conclusion of the the problem...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 07:13pm PT
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jun 20, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
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Nice report T.
Looks more like Kentucky from that last picture, though... :-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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That's Montucky to you sir!
Saddle Up...
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jun 20, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
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Laughing...
Thanks Tarbuster! This is a great TR. I am eating my popcorn and loving the show. Thank you for sharing!
On a side note... This popcorn was made by green energy. I didn't need to use the microwave, I just left the bag outside and it popped like a chinese firecracker. It is one mighty heat wave happening in Northridge.
AF
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jun 20, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
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That's a group picture of people that bring your blood pressure down just by looking at them!
I Like your "sinewy aspen" description... My granddaughter's name is Aspen Alleshannah (middle name means dancing girl ...like the Aspen's dance in the breeze.. and she is sinewy)
Friday nite and off to La Jolla.
Super Great Thread Maestro Tbuster.
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L
climber
A rubber raft in a sea of sharp teeth...
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Jun 20, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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Heeeeey Tar--welcome home!
As usual, those photos of yours are awesome! (Got to admit...the owl was my favorite. You just don't see those guys much during the day.)
What a great looking group of people to party with...and in such a gorgeous place, too. Thanks for the sneak-preview...
Now tell me the truth: Did you just happen to get the Tominator?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 09:46pm PT
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No L,
I didn't attempt the top out (or the mid-section) of the Tominator...
(I provided a crucial and hefty dosing of moral support, heh, heh)
Big party happened Saturday night!
Here's the abridged version, complete with Tarbuster Look-Alike Contest:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
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Sunday morning, at the crack of 10 o'clock,
We headed out to The Wedge for some old-dad-out-to-pasture loping:
(photo from the earlier thread)
Our line was a spiffy 5.8 called "Mutt and Jeff".
The climb was a nice, solid, thick grained white high country granite:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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Scott Cole on the marvelous summit:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
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The day's crew looking happy and refreshed:
Bob (xtremecat) and Scott:
Liz, Meg, and Mark:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 12:02am PT
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Sunday night was the big party night!
We had supplies...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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We had a band:
Archer's Mob!!!
They rendered a mellifluous blend of progressive folk rock.
(You know a backwoods gathering ranks top notch when you have a band)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 12:12am PT
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Here is Clan Mojede, featuring the lovely and beautiful Molly (the real Mojede) upfront!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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After the (-ahem-) pink marshmallows started to go down,
I had to call it a night and crawl into the spacious four-person dome tent afforded me by the ever gracious host Mojede-
...while Archers Mob serenaded at close range with an unplugged acid grass rockabilly number...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:00am PT
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I knew this would be a blast, but my ride isn't quite ready yet... maybe a couple of weeks...
Glad you all had a great time! and I'm looking forward to getting out with you all in the not to distant future!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:16am PT
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This is what we saw Ed H. drive in on, on the shores of Tenaya. No wonder it is not ready yet:
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:37am PT
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The guy with the beard, is he a kayaker by any chance?
I swear he was in Creekin USA.
Nice granite, any loose boulders?
Nobody up there I bet.
Who left the water at Magoo's, thanks, it was a hot one today, not sick yet.
Look at the bowl size on the glassware, who has the plantation?
How was the power done, Honda generator, or batteries and inverters?
Any spurious noise from the power supply?
Just trying to find the best outdoor setup.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 10:34am PT
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Yes Dr. Rock,
There was a generator present: I never heard a peep out of it.
The kids shrouded the beast in crash pads when they fired it up.
The big guy with the beard and orange shirt; not sure about kayaking on his part.
He goes by "xtremecat", which was a handle he used as a snowmobile racer.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 10:35am PT
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 21, 2008 - 10:52am PT
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Cooking marshmellows. YIPEEE!!!!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jun 22, 2008 - 02:58am PT
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I like that Tominator egg boulder problem. Know I'm not strong enough yet to pull it off but like it's looks.
TarBuster, your description of above boulder sounds like a good description of any persons relationship with the one close to them, a strong entry and a committed follow through.
Young man, you do have a way with words. lrl
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jun 22, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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I just got back home after the final camp clean-up--the Kingsbury brothers, Dom, and Liz left after breakfast for Bozeman. Hard Rock and I went for a morning climb to get a last taste of stone in for the weekend. He asked where I wanted to go, and I suggested a VERY obscure (even for Montucky batholith standards) mini-area that he had shown me once prior.
It was a good way to end the gathering--long time (but occasional) Butte partners climbing together at an area that only they know exists.
I know that I had a good time, hope that everybody else did as well.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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Yer the MAN Kevin!!!
We all had a wonderful time.
Lots of terrific companionship.
Thanks Mucho.
-Roy
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jun 23, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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My pleasure, Roy--happy to spend some time in your company.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 23, 2008 - 03:01am PT
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OH man, of all the places for the powers that be to conspire to keep several of us away from...
nice Stuff THANK YOU!! for letting us peer in...
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 23, 2008 - 10:00am PT
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Tarbuster-
Just thought you like to know: Ken and I put up 2 new routes (5.11a and 5.11d) on Friends Rock on Saturday. We had 2 friends do a climb on the Wedge (both of them new to the back way in). Coming back to the saddle - one of them thought he would shortcut around one of the spires even though I called to him to follow me. He ended up at heading west out to the interstate and showed up 3 hours later at the mine trail head after he bummed a ride from a rancher. Always an adventure.
Enjoyed you visit.
-Kurt
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2008 - 10:25am PT
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The "back way" into the wedge: the hills are alive!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 23, 2008 - 04:58pm PT
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Nice report Roy! Great pics too! I'm really glad you were able to make it. I like the shot of Scott on the summit of the Wedge, it looks surreal.
I should mention to the folks out there that the boulder problem Recoil is a Tarbuster FA. Nice work on that one!
The coolest event of the day, for me, was this ascent of "The Tominator"...
(I provided a crucial and hefty dosing of moral support, heh, heh)
It was pretty cool for me too Roy, and I think I wouldla held off if it wasn't for your sage like advice.
I should also mention that the Batholith Bash got a little coverage...
From Sunday's Bozeman Chronicle:
I'll round up the 2nd half pics here in a day or so, just kinda getting back into the groove of things...
Cheers,
Tom
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tahoetun
Trad climber
Stevensville, MT
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Jun 23, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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We had a blast meeting and climbing with everyone. Big thanks to Tom and Kevin for puting on the show and to Kurt for all the routes and Beta. Hope to get out there and climb with you all again soon. And don't forget Meg and I live about 20min from Blodget--so, if you looking for partners or a place to throw down. . .
Let's do it again next year!
-Mark
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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Jun 23, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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Mojede, hmmm..your kids real names are Ladd and Lyddie......Any stories?
edit;-)
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jun 23, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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nita, nothing too exciting in naming them. We liked the name Lydia, but it sounded a little old fashioned. Liddy sounds fun, but there's the G. Gordon of that name, so we changed the spelling. Her personality now is very fitting for her name.
As for the boy, we kicked around a few, but couldn't settle in on one. One of my childhood friends was named Ladd. His father was an archeologist and we used to go on digs all the time. When he was a junior in High School, he was killed trying to trundle a huge rock in the Crazy Mountains. I just liked the name Ladd, and wanted to remember him for the free spirit he was.
The "L" and "dd" theme is kinda fun and cute--Lyddie and Ladd(ie), what a pair.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 24, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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Nice pics Tar,
Looks like you all were having fun.
Zander
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 30, 2008 - 10:44am PT
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Tarbuster-
Went to do Flathead with a youth on Saturday.
Hot but we left Msla at 5am so we made it before the heat.
The South Face route has some shade and made it up in about 6 hours of climbing time. Anyway took a young (35) rope gun to get me up. But the interesting info is that he and others do all three Spires (Flahead, Shos, NP) in a day (about 12 hours climbing time).
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Jul 13, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
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Mojede
I had a great time. Thanks for showin us the stuff!
Scott
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2018 - 05:03pm PT
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Thanks for bumping this thread!
The Batholith Bash qualifies as one of the best road trips/parties I've ever enjoyed.
Mojede and Tom really know how to brew up a proper shindig!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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I had forgot you put this fab trip report together, years ago Roy. I remember I had to work all that summer. Haven't seen Kevin-Mojede in quite some time now. I need to look him up and get back to the batholith.
Cheers,
Arne
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2018 - 07:35pm PT
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Arne,
I had a long conversation with Tom Kingsbury yesterday. One of my favorite of all people!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Yeah, those brothers are our own royalty. So serious about their trade they left this soap opera, what almost 10 years ago? How is Tom?
When you coming back up? Maybe we should form a 10 year anniversary?
Arne
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2018 - 10:02am PT
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10th anniversary, don't I wish!
Due to severe musculoskeletal strain, I'm a house cat now: WTF!
Tom is doing awesome. Still a cartographer, working for himself. Three-year-old son and a beautiful wife who is a watercolorist.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I went to the first bash and hung in the area for a week. Great event with good peeps. Miss those boys chiming in around here the batholith is a special place much like the Needles, the deasert, and many of the other magical places throughout the West.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Hey Tad-
I haven't seen him in a couple but the last time I did he was headed down to Mill Ck to do some more FA'n. Looks like he is still at the U.
Man, the zone of the Boulder bash is incredible in terms of number of problems, the setting ain't too shabby and if you MTB, dirt road ride or moto, you'll be busy for years climbing and taking rest days on the wheels.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Gathering at the start of the 1st bash.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jack learning some good jamming technique.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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May 31, 2019 - 10:44pm PT
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Am glad I am saving this one to disk.
Thank you so much Tarbuster, for some future summer climbing goals!
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