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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
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Cool. That's what I thought. Looks like I'm in all the way. Thanks. The other guy has done the route in the 70's. But I trust his memory like I trust my own. Just wanted to make sure.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Vitaliy,
I climbed Lost Arrow Chimney two years ago with Zander , and was completely trashed. We bivi 30 feet below the notch, and next day I almost faint on decent. I sit down eat all my remaining foot, than eat all Zander's remaining foot, and only after that proceed.
I'll do it again with you in the summer long day. I was so busy last time that missed Harding hole, not to climb it, but just to see how it looks
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 11, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
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My friend Gleb wanted to do it with me, but if he is not into it this summer, will email you for sure!! It looks like an awesome route. Seems like a step up from Steck Salathe.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 11, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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Why climb Lost Arrow when Hurricane Jingus is right there Vitaly?
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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How long did it take to climb. I see two days. And I see four days. Two days would mean, one night at the notch, summit, then traverse to the rim or rap. Four days would mean bivy at 4/8/notch, then summit, traverse/rap. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Skcreidc, it's been 15 years since I climbed it, but don't recall any overhanging bits up to the notch, and very little mandatory free climbing.
Cannon, times are operator dependent. The ledges are so great to camp on that I'd recommend not rushing it and chilling as much as you can for the full Valley wall experience . Great views! Though, there are the notorious nightly winds...
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TheSpeedoBandido
climber
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Apr 23, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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Hey, has anyone tried throwing a rope between the tip and the main wall? Either from the main wall to the tip, or the other way around? My friend and I want to do LA direct, and have some friends meet us up at the top - the thing is, our friends don't want to rap down into the notch and climb the tip with us - they just want to do the tyrolean over to the tip. If we were on the tip, do you think they could chuck a rope out to us to set up the tyrolean?
Also - is that tree anchor for the tyrolean on the main wall bomber, or should they bring some pro to back it up?
Thanks!
~Will
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 23, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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Did the tip only back around 70-71. There were four of us, but since we only had one set of jumars, drew straws for who would do the climb and who would toss the rope over and tyrolean. I was one of the winners and got to do the climb. The guy I did it with was named Jim McCarthy, (Not THE! Jim McCarthy!) Much younger guy.
I think we caught the rope on about the third try. It wasn't all that difficult a rope toss. It's down hill quite a bit from rim to tip. A stiff wind might complicate that. YMMV.
There was a group of high school age climbers in camp 4 that had hiked up to watch and they all rode the tyrolian over. With that much manpower we had a half dozen haulers running on the rim with a tag line. We had people flying back and forth from tip to rim all afternoon and caused a traffic jam in the valley. When tourists started wandering over from the falls overlook and asking how much we charged for a ride over we figured it was time to shut it down.
I think somewhere I have a copy of Andy Embic's hand drawn topo from his ascent when Roy Nazz broke his leg and he ended up soloing out of the notch the year before.
If I can find it, I'll scan it and post. It sounds like this route has changed quite a bit over the years. It might make an interesting comparison.
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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the guide book talks about beaks and hammers. any one have any beta on a rack to bring? i am not planning on bringing a hammer. talk to me about gear to bring
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