ElCap Report 6/18/08


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Crestline CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 18, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
ElCap Report 6/18/08
By Tom Evans

Yo! Really nice today and not so hot. The bridge was jammed with all the slacker boys and a horde of Tourons too. Most of the traffic was on the Nose with no NIAD’s going on. The air was as clear as I have seen it all spring and several teams were moving toward the rock to start routes. The guys who fixed on the trip several days ago came down as did Team Celtics who started the Muir yesterday. Team Celtic was hit with rock fall from high on the wall as they slept on their ledges. One of the team was hit and injured but, fortunately, not seriously. There were no parties above them so the old Cap hucked some missiles down at random. Beware folks, that thing is alive and weathering all the time!
Today’s report is brought to you by an awesome Spanish woman who came by to look through the scope. The bridge rats just sat and stared! Thanks for brightening our day and bringing some beauty to a collection of anything but beautiful bridge rats!
Today’s Report…

Zodiac: I did see a team of three starting on the so called pile of dung “direct start” late in the afternoon. I also hear a team of Koreans is planning on climbing it soon too.

Tribal Rite: Ottawa Doug had a good night on ECT with 4 guys who came up the Nose yesterday. He called me around 10am and said to tell his family that he was fine but was having difficulty with the cell phone so don’t be concerned if he doesn’t call for a while. He let the others pass him and thus was somewhat delayed starting in the morning. I saw him climbing the first pitch of Tribal, above the Boot, at around 3:30 this afternoon. He looks good and is in excellent spirits.
Ottawa Doug hauling bags to Texas Flake
Ottawa Doug checking the topo on top of the Boot Flake
Ottawa Doug on the Boot shot from way down town

Nose: The Colorado Girls were on the Great Roof when I got there this morning. They climbed the roof and on into camp 5 this afternoon. The last I saw them they were climbing toward the Glowering Spot pitch so I assume they were heading for camp 6 for the night. They looked solid today and should be off tomorrow.
Joy leading the Pancake Flake
Colorado girls climbing into camp 5 from out west
Joy hauling bag to camp 5 late in the afternoon

The two parties below the girls have sort of merged into a gangly party, loosely organized. They climbed the Boot together but did the King Swing separately. They were together in the Gray Bands and will most likely stay at camp 4 tonight. Doug said one was a German team and the other Americans. They are all moving right along but will not catch the girls.
Dropping in on the King Swing
Heavy traffic on the Boot Flake
Two teams climbing in the Gray Bands toward camp 4 (on top of the obvious pillar at left)

The Girls husbands climbed to Dolt Tower today as a warm up for a NIAD on Friday. They reported 5 gallons of water there.
I did talk with a team of two who left for the route this afternoon planning on a push at night and into daylight… should be rough tomorrow for the men.
I hear that the Aussies are going for an on sight NIAD tomorrow.

Lurking Fear: I did see Dave Mital was up on the route this afternoon. He is just a few pitches from the top and will most likely top out late tomorrow.
I saw a team of two doing the first pitch this afternoon.

In other news: The day was a fine one here. Many monkeys were around. Dude 1 (Clay) and Dude 2 (Corbin) were hanging too. Corbin and Hayden are planning on climbing the LT as free as possible in the morning. The air was really clear today and I enjoyed shooting even though I hate this time of year for shooting climbers on the Cap. Wish there were more to shoot at. The Cossey entourage, just down from the Reg. NWFHD, lounged around the meadow today after a late night return. Ben leaves in the morning while Lee and Amanda are staying on a couple of more days. Lee and Jake are going on a NIAD tomorrow.
Anticipation is rising regarding Hans and Yugi going for the record on the Nose later in the month. Hans has been particularly active on the route this month and looks in really great shape. The details are under wraps but I will let you know what’s up as things unfold.
I got an email from the Dihedral team (Bob Steed and Chris Chan)who are now back home. They said they did in fact climb the entire route and sent it clean!!!
Guess that’s all I want to write about at this time… So … that’s the way it is for this the 18th day of June 2008. Be careful walking the base of the Cap, all kinds of things are raining down these days.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jun 19, 2008 - 12:02am PT
Thanks as always for a great report.

Trad climber
The West
Jun 19, 2008 - 04:44am PT
i am disappointed that i need to bump this. you would rather have a wife appreciation thread? or something about blackwater? f***

Trad climber
Utrecht, The Netherlands
Jun 19, 2008 - 05:01am PT
Thanks for the report and the awesome pictures.

Yep I wish you had more to shoot at too!!

Social climber
Jun 19, 2008 - 05:20am PT
hey there tom.. say, thanks for these great reports... it is so very strange and awesome at the same time to see how folks can even do this, considering how huge and massive this wonderful rock is....

thanks again...

Social climber
Jun 19, 2008 - 05:54am PT
hey there chirst... say, there is some good 'behind the scenes' moral support, though, in the wife appreaciation thread...

course, they sure love seeing the trip pics, right along with you... but say, take a peek at it... these guys have great support in their lives for these great climbs...

well, god bless, and thanks for "bump up" for these the el cap report... i just love seeing el cap...
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Jun 19, 2008 - 07:59am PT
Good stuff, Tom. Weirdness, too. Somehow I made my previous troubles vanish...Stupid 'puters...See ya!

Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2008 - 09:00am PT
Go Bob Steed!

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jun 19, 2008 - 09:22am PT
as the recipient of an immaculate, no-dad-imput conception, christ's take on the wife thread is understandable.

Cardiff by the sea
Jun 19, 2008 - 09:23am PT
Well it looks like things will start getting good the next couple of days for Ottawa Doug. Did you put him up to those green pants Tom? or does he just have bad taste LOL? Please tell him next time you talk that I am watching and following his ascent. New Dawn to Tribal is the next big one for me. I hope he is enjoying himself.

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 19, 2008 - 10:28am PT
Thanks for the report

Trad climber
San Diego
Jun 19, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
Good stuff Tom! Looking forward to being in the valley again.

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