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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 17, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Having met Wally Reed and his lovely wife Ruby at the opening of Ken's exhibit, I found myself pondering his many accomplishments in Yosemite (take it away Ed!). I got a taste on the East Buttress of El Cap (FFA with Sacherer, August 1964). Proud effort in hard-soled kletter shoes!
At the top of my interest list is the Powell-Reed on Middle. Anyone done this route in recent times? It sure looks worthwhile.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 17, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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The Iota, 5.4 1956 Wally Reed Bill Henderson
Southeast Face Lower Brother, 5.8 A1 III 1958 Wally Reed Charles Raymond
Reed's Leeds 5.10b 1963 Wally Reed Mike Borghoff
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 5.9 1957 Wally Reed Herb Swedlund
The Remnant, Right Side 5.7 1960 Wally Reed Herb Swedlund
The Rorp 5.7 1963 Wally Reed Frank Sacherer
Selaginella 5.8 II 1963 Wally Reed Jim Posten
The Cleft, 5.9 R 1958 Chuck Pratt Wally Reed 1965 Chuck Pratt Chris Fredricks
East Arrowhead Buttress, Overhang Bypass 5.7 III 1957 Mark Powell Wally Reed Warren Harding
Lower Cathedral Rock, West Face 5.8 A2 III 1963 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed
Lunch Ledge Direct (Space Case) 5.8 A4 IV 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
North Dome, South Face Route 5.7 1957 Mark Powell Wally Reed 1960 Mort Hempel Irene Ortenberger Steve Roper
Powell-Reed 5.10c IV 1957 Mark Powell Wally Reed 1964 Bob Kamps Tom Higgins
Reed's Pinnacle Left Side 5.10a 1962 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed Gary Colliver 1962 Frank Sacherer Dick Erb Larry Marshik
The Slack, Center Route 5.10d 1958 Charlie Raymond Wally Reed 1967 Pat Ament Larry Dalke
Space Case (Lunch Ledge Direct) 5.8 A4 IV (5.10c) 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Lower Watkins Pinnacle A3 II 1957 Mark Powell Herb Swedlund Wally Reed George Sessions Merle Alley
Reed's Pinnacle Direct 5.10a 1964 Frank Sacherer Mark Powell Wally Reed Gary Colliver Andy Lichman Chris Fredricks
Lower Watkins Pinnacle A3 II 1957 Mark Powell Herb Swedlund Wally Reed George Sessions Merle Alley
Reed's Pinnacle Direct 5.10a 1964 Frank Sacherer Mark Powell Wally Reed Gary Colliver Andy Lichman Chris Fredricks
El Capitan, East Buttress 5.10b 1953 Allen Steck Will Siri Willi Unsoeld Bill Long 1964 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed
Observation Point 5.9 III 1962 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehrenfeucht 1964 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jun 17, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
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Wally Reed at the opening,
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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I had wanted to ask Wally how his name ended up on Reed's Pinnacle but a quick pass through Roper's green guide tells the tale. Wally was in on all three routes to the summit including the ultra classic second pitch of the 3D! Not everybody was made of the right stuff to hang with Sacherer but Wally clearly had no problem keeping up. I sure thought about the FA when I first lead the committing final pitch of the 3D long ago.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 18, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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Regular Route on Fairview Dome. FA Wally Reed & Chuck Pratt 1958
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jstan
climber
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Jun 18, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
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It is surely none of my business but, while I have long known about Reed's pinnacle, i know nothing else about Mr. Reed. It feels like there is a hole in my knowledge that should not be there. Anyone?
His climbing with Sacherer suggests he carried a slide rule on his belt once. I noticed right away he is not using a pocket protector.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 18, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
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Bump.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 18, 2008 - 07:12pm PT
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Wally is truly a humble and mellow person. Very difficult to rile. I did a number of climbs with him in the early 60's. Kamps, Wally and moi did one of the early free ascents of the Worst Error. The rappel rope hung up on the third pitch, a long and unprotected chimney. Kamps and I watched in horror as Wally climbed back up without a belay to free it. Neither Kamps, nor I volunteered.
Having climbed a lot of routes with Sacherer I believe Wally to be the perfect partner for him. He could sit back and smile when Sacherer "went off". "O.K Frank, can we get back to climbing now"?
Several years prior, Galen, Walker and myself went up to climb the Worst Error, got lost, made a first ascent which we appropriately called the Real Error. Ascent by default i guess.
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Mimi
climber
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Jun 18, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
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Joe, anytime you are in the mood, please tell us more about your time in Yosemite. What rich history.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
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Wally and Mark Powell were the free climbing dream team at the dawn of the golden era and in many ways the original Valley locals. Steve Roper has this to say in Camp 4.
Ken very graciously allowed Wally and Ruby to view the history exhibit by themselves before the opening. I was still fussing around and had the opportunity to visit while they took it all in. Right in front of the El Cap Era section Wally paused and came over to disclose earnestly that "I never really did any of those big climbs."
"Wally, I am well aware of what you did and you have plenty to be proud of. Climbing has done nothing but get easier since you guys were up there in your hard-soled boots!"
Like a warm drink on a chilly night, Wally took in the praise and gave me a glowing look as he stepped back into the living past.
The amount of sincere humility in some of these pioneers is truly staggering. Always trying to measure yourself against Robbins or Harding. It totally makes sense that Wally could handle the volatile young upstart Sacherer when he showed up.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 28, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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When I was first starting out, it seemed that if Wally Reed was on the first ascent of a route we were trying, it was going to be strenuous, poorly protected, likely wide hands to offsize, and almost always a classic line. Those guys really got after the great lines. How about the 3D for an all time classic! "Obligatory for hard men."
First time I made it up the 3D I felt like Hercules.
JL
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 28, 2008 - 09:50pm PT
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Something to add to this: Wally was a ranger, I seem to remember. And yeah, incredibly even-tempered. It would seem he was meek if you didn't listen to him.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
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Or repeat his routes with original equipment in mind. A cropped Glen Denny shot of Wally and Bridwell from Yosemite in the Sixties, 2007.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 28, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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Pall Malls at the ready.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 29, 2008 - 02:14am PT
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"If we can see further, it is because we stand on the shoulders of giants."
In this case, a modest but most accomplished one.
Ed: You double printed the following in the list:
"Lower Watkins Pinnacle A3 II 1957 Mark Powell Herb Swedlund Wally Reed George Sessions Merle Alley
Reed's Pinnacle Direct 5.10a 1964 Frank Sacherer Mark Powell Wally Reed Gary Colliver Andy Lichman Chris Fredricks"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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The Powell- Reed was a climb of note in Pat Ament's excellent A History of Free Climbing in America, 2002.
The plate from Roper's guide showing the original line as the "aid variation."
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2008 - 10:47am PT
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Bump for a tale from LongAgo!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
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The written description of the Powell-Reed from Roper's green guide.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 19, 2008 - 11:14pm PT
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I climbed the Powell-Reed on a weekend in early June of 1973. We took a day and a half. The third pitch had a very hard lieback for me, and I almost fell near the top leading it. We used some pins, so I don't know what it would be like with modern gear. There were several sections of munge -- and rather wet munge at that.
I haven't done Stoner's Highway, but it looks much cleaner. Still, we thought the face was beautiful, and after the shouting died down next door on Paradise Lost (Largo was climbing it on Saturday), we had the whole face to ourselves.
By the way, we must have spent the night on the same ledges as Powell and Reed on the first ascent. The shards of a broken wine bottle were the clue. . .
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jul 20, 2008 - 12:25am PT
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Back in '72 when Jim Orey and I were hanging out in C4 and looking for interesting things to climb it seems to me that anything with "Powell and Reed" placed after the name of the route after it meant commitement which usually entailed serious run-out climbing. I remember that the climbing on the Powell/Reed route on Middle Cathedral demanded serious routefinding and a belief in one's climbing skills. Getting from Belay A-B challenged Jim and I but the climbing was never out of control.............just vagely intimidating.
I'd love to see a profile on Wally Reed. He is one of the Valley Original Pioneers.
jack
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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This thread is a profile in the making so pitch on in if you like.
I am glad to see that somebody has done the route. I assume that you did the Kamps Higgins free variant not the original right hand finish to the PR ledges.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 20, 2008 - 01:39pm PT
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well, who's going to sit down with Wally Reed and do an interview? This is something that should be done as Wally is too modest to write up his accounting of those times.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
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That would be me and Ken.
Wally was involved in the FA of the Nose and will be a participant in the YCA's 50th Anniversary celebration upcoming on November 8. We will be doing full bios on the six folks in on the Nose that are still around as well as gathering the specifics on their Nose experience. This thread and the Museum show really helps set the stage with any luck at all.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 20, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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From Climbing in North America by Chris Jones
pages 204-205, "The Southern Californians" chapter
After this climb the companions went their separate ways. Wilson dropped out of climbing and disappeared to the East Coast. After one more major climb Gallwas also went on to to other things. Powell alone remained dedicated to the sport. His contemporaries, although keen weekend climbers, never lost sight of the importance of completing college and getting a good job. Powell was different. He threw himself into climbing completely and abandoned college. He spent the entire summers of 1956 and 1957 climbing and supporting himself between times by laboring and meter reading. This was a major break with the past. It marked the change from the career man, who climbed on the weekends to the climber who supported his habit as best he could. Several of Powell's contemporaries resented his wholesale dedication to climbing. They considered it a waste of his college potential and characterized him as a "climbing bum."
During the mid-1950s the general level of Yosemite climbing was inexpert. In 1956 two unsuccessful attempts were made to repeat the south-west face of Half Dome, while such hoary favorites as the Higher and Lower Cathedral Spires counted some four ascents each. In contrast to this mediocre performance Robbins and the Southern Californian Mike Sherrick made the third ascent of Sentinel's north face, and Powell established a stunning free climb, Arrowhead Arete (5.8). Powell's pace was quickening. The next summer he and Wally Reed put up several good climbs, most notably the Powell-Reed Route, the first breach in that somber wall. With these ascents Powell effectively brought Tahquitz standards to Yosemite. He free-climbed to the limit, and where he had to use aid, he forced himself to move up on marginal A4 pitons. He made his climbs in a bold, forthright manner, leading them straight off without repeated reconnaissance.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 20, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
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so one question I always had... about The Rorp, which seems to me an atypical Sacherer FA. I'm wondering if Sacherer was eyeing the Flatus chimney, a more logical Sacherer objective...
...and if he was, why didn't he do it? certainly within his ability at the time (1963).
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 20, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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You're right, Steve. We went right at about 600-700 feet, rather than nailing up to and aroung the ceiling. There was a flake system (well, more like a narrow ledge in places) leading across to another dihedral. As I remember it, the hard part was getting to that traversing point -- but my memory has doubtless been dulled by the 35 years since we did it.
John
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2008 - 05:38pm PT
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So, based on the Roper guide photo, did you end up climbing the righthand original "aid variation" or did you follow the Higgins-Kamps left hand free variation?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 20, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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Oops! I meant the other right. We took the Kamps-Higgins line to the left (which according to the 1963[red] Roper guide, was already the standard route before Kamps and Higgins freed the route).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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Might have to call Roper on this one! Matter of route gospel and all.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Jul 20, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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Bump...
Thank You!!!
This is the stuff that keeps me coming back to Super Topo! (Besides L's stories and Lynne's great conversations.)
AF
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Jul 21, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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When Kamps and I freed the Powell Reed Route on Middle Cathedral, Bob freed the lower flaky face aid section, and I got to lead the layback crack/cracks. I believe we followed the original aid route ("aid variation") and did not do any free variation pictured trending left in the topo/picture. The reasons I believe this are:
 Kamps was very strict about doing original lines when doing a FFA, not variations, and as the youth under his wing, I went along with his preference. So, when leading, I'd just ask, where next, he'd point, and I'd go.
The picture shows some layback cracks in shadow which I distinctly remember being very hard and hard to stop on and protect. I recall Bob fell twice following one of them, and I let him slide further than I should sitting on a slim ledge and getting yanked partially off, tight to my anchor. We had a nervous laugh there.
Shortly thereafter, Frank Sacherer told me he did the route free but found a way to the left around the nasty layback cracks of the old aid route since he didn’t like the protection difficulty. Maybe, then, the line in the topo to the left was his variation.
This is all from memory. Old diary just says, "FFA with Kamps. 1964."
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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scuffy b
climber
Sartre's No Exit 1/32 mile
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Jul 21, 2008 - 04:32pm PT
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What a surprise, Tom.
It makes good sense, but...
who expects something like this,
an apparent beta correction 45 years after the fact?
Who suspected two different "variations?"
Thanks
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2008 - 09:09pm PT
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Thanks for responding to my request for history on the Powell- Reed FFA. Your posts are hearty and extraordinary fare for climbophiles like myself.
Had Bob ever fallen following you before that route? Do you remember enjoying the climbing or was it too improbable to relax much? Any recollection on number of prior ascents before your FFA?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 21, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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Steve, you just keep getting the great stuff out here
for us.
Thanks, BIG TIME!
EDIT
Are you a historian by trade, or only dabbling in it?
Just curious--but keep doing it, either way!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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I work with Ken at the YCA and climbing history has long been a passion for me. I haven't quite quit my day job yet though.
Voices of the past, present and future meet at the ST Cafe for a little excitement. Glad you enjoy it!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 22, 2008 - 11:34am PT
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Steve
Well, you're doing a pretty spiffy job of it.
I'm actually a history major, haven't really decided
the string, but probably American political history. . .
But really working on the degree in elementary education.
My college doesn't have a major in education, so I had to
choose history as the major and elementary ed as the minor.
Thanks again for all of the great posts.
Perhaps we'll meet at Facelift!
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Jul 24, 2008 - 06:44pm PT
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Steve,
Sorry to be late tracking this thread. You asked:
Had Bob ever fallen following you before that route?
Do you remember enjoying the climbing or was it too improbable to relax much?
Any recollection on number of prior ascents before your FFA?
Bob and I had our share of falls over the years while climbing together. I don't know, probably some roughly equal share, but I never kept track. We also, for a time, had a "running competition" with one another for broken heels. First me (into North Sea in Scotland), then him (Tuolumne), then me (Indian Rock), then him (Stony Point). We tried to laugh, but it felt like some kind of hex.
To your question, the only other fall around that time I recall was Bob coming off Blanketty Blank at Tahquitz, but he was leading, not following. He took one fall, started over and got it. I had the benefit of watching the funny mantle and so got it without a fall. I remember him razing me about my spending too much time at Stony. Of course, as a young upstart, I was proud and happy to get it and be with Bob, my mentor and guiding light, and wanted with every fiber to keep up with him. But the biggest fall I recall goes to me with Bob belaying on El Camino Real at Tahquitz. I went 50' with pins popping (pins sang going in, but were held only at the neck in inward curving layback crack, it turned out). Finally, one held and I stopped horizontally facing Bob, a mere foot or so above the belay ledge/bush. Being young and driven at the time, I hardly realized how close to disaster I came, and just went up again and led it without another fall. Bob followed no falls. Later, I learned Bob was rattled not just by my fall but at least two other big ones he held while climbing with others around that time. He got over it, but I think we both gradually learned seeing and holding a big fall can be worse than falling itself.
As for FFA of PR on Middle, we were nervous at the beginning with such a big wall in front of us and a fair amount of reported aid we hoped to free, but got more into it and excited as all started to go nicely over rock so colorful and inviting. I didn't much like the layback section getting a good away from the pro and all, but saw a ledge I was heading for, felt pretty strong and just went for it. A few times that strategy got me into trouble, but not this time. Overall, our spirits kept rising the higher we got and the climb was within reason given our skills of the day.
I don't know how many times the route had been done when we did the FFA, but I suspect we did either the second ascent or one of the few early repeats. I say that because Mark Powell told us he wasn't aware of any repeats at the time we headed off, but maybe he wasn’t up to date.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2008 - 09:27pm PT
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Thanks for the background Tom. I was curious about just how hard the climbing was if it gave Bob real trouble. Hats off to your prowess on that day!
The gimpy ankle competition is too funny. Bob must have had some doubts about the whole show seeing as he quit for a spell after holding a Sacherer fifty footer and thought himself a cursed belayer as the story goes! Hard to imagine these days but one had to wonder where the real limits of the hip belay were every time you held a real sizzler back then.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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Since the Nose is on the table, Roper had this to say by way of comparison and contrast with Harding.
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Jul 27, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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What an amazing day! I just got back from my first trip to Tahquitz 9 hours ago and I read this...
Tom said: "But the biggest fall I recall goes to me with Bob belaying on El Camino Real at Tahquitz. I went 50' with pins popping (pins sang going in, but were held only at the neck in inward curving layback crack, it turned out). Finally, one held and I stopped horizontally facing Bob, a mere foot or so above the belay ledge/bush. Being young and driven at the time, I hardly realized how close to disaster I came, and just went up again and led it without another fall. Bob followed no falls. "
While we were there we did El Camino (actually did it yesterday) and I remember thinking, as I was lie-backing the flake, about how hard it would be to hold on with one hand, place a pin, hammer it home and then continue climbing. Now I get home and read this story! Thanks for sharing it Tom.
the view looking down El Camino Real as of yesterday:
-n
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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Who hasn't done the Regular Route on Fairview? Following in Wally's footsteps again. Roper had this to say about Tuolumne Meadows history.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
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Bump for a Nose pioneer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 11:21am PT
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One good bump deserves another!
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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It was gems like this thread that brought me to ST in the first place and the relative lack thereof that causes me to wander away. Always a pleasure to wander back and stumble upon this kind of quality "oral" history. Thanks, Steve.
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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Biking home yesterday I passed a retired professor walking the other way; he'd been on my thesis committee (years before I started climbing) so I waved hello and pulled over to talk. He asked what I've been up to lately, and it being summer I mentioned rock climbing.
"That's interesting," he says, "one of my doctoral students in the 1960's was a climber, and he even got his name into some Yosemite guidebook."
This piqued my interest, of course. "No kidding!? What's his name?" (I was already anticipating the answer but in disbelief at the same time. I remembered that one of the FAs on Selaginella - one of my favorite routes - was a botanist.)
"Wally Reed."
So we had a nice conversation about Wally Reed and his doctoral research. How cool! You know, degrees of separation and all that...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 07:46am PT
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Wally is in the finest tradition of those who climb on their feet by the way, Pilgrims. Like Preuss, Dulfer and Al Steck. One of the early pioneers of "Climb Like a Girl", a bumpersticker sometimes still seen on climber cars.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 14, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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I think Wally was a doctoral student for about 50 years!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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An understated hero in my book...
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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Around 1963, we were still in the pre-Kronhofer era. At that time we didn't have "climbing shoes," we had shoes, which we used for the approach, the climb, the descent, and, in the spring or fall when it was cold, the walk to Yosemite Lodge in the evening to hang out around the fire. The choice then was mainly between Zillertals and Spyders. In the conversation one evening about their merits, Wally opined that Spyders were more comfortable in the Lodge. His view settled the choice for most of us, as we respected him greatly.
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John Morton
climber
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Aug 15, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
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re: repeats of the Powell-Reed before the FFA in 1964 ... I did this climb with John Hammond in 1964. I seem to remember that several friends had done it, and we confirmed its reputation as a moderate one day IV with less than a dozen pins of aid. The most memorable event that day was that in the lower section we were bombarded by Robbins and Frost, who were tossing loose stuff off the DNB. We decided it would be an honor to be killed by the best climbers in the country.
Strange, the above comments about the good quality of the route (with which I agree). It disappeared from guidebooks in the 70's, along with some other climbs which had been popular a few years earlier.
John
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 15, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
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okay!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
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Thanks for the early accounts!
When I interviewed Mark Powell about the FA of the Powell-Reed he gave me the impression that several dozen points of aid were required which is likely more due to his high standards than the actual count. I didn't ask him directly about the count even though that was the ongoing point of reference in the free climbing game.
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John Morton
climber
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Aug 15, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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The Powell-Reed followed the pattern of several mixed climbs that were later freed. P and R took 2 days and rated it IV 5.7 A3. By 1964 it was probably IV 5.9 A1 or 2, and the remaining aid didn't have the bottoming zipper cracks reported by Powell. As we all know, aid slows you way down, which means likely bivvy, which neans more gear, which slows you even more. And that move where you step out of slings to free climb can be hard - you might be inclined to continue nailing rather than step out onto 5.9 balance moves.
John
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2010 - 11:31am PT
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Middle Rock Bump!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nov 29, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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Time for a BUMP!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 29, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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grand
the climbs and the man
bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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May we please have another...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
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You Betcha Bump...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 31, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
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Thanks for the bump - somehow I had missed the earlier discussion of the 2 variations on the Powell-Reed.
Will try to fill in that big gap in the current topo!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
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Wally Bump...
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 18, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
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Thanks to the maker-keepers of the days for lore.
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| Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic |
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