The Doctor and MisterE's Excellent Adventure (TR)

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MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2008 - 12:49pm PT
We recently found out that John Burcham (sp?) recently finished a 7-year project in Sedona - a 10-pitch 5.12a arete. We got what beta we could, which was "bring 1 rope and 16 draws". We also got directions, and last Saturday headed out to do the climb. I was a bit tired from the day before, having just finished a first ascent of a 100-foot 5.11c with 4 seperate cruxes, but we were so psyched to do a long route I sucked it up.

We parked on 89A and hiked up to the obvious prow. The crux is pitch 8, on the wild overhang visible above:


As we were casting about for the start of the climb, David found some "cleaning" tools and got a little silly:


The first indication that maybe the beta wasn't exactly right was a crack above that looked like it needed gear...
Well, we found a chimney to the right of the crack that had a bolt 50 feet up, and David said it "looked like easy climbing to the bolt" (this would be a recurring theme to justify our lack of protection). David leading out the first pitch:


And finally getting to the bolt just below the squeeze chimney section:


I followed, and since I suck at chimneying, I got stuck in the squeeze and had to pull through it. Sigh So much for a clean ascent!

We found the anchors at the top of the chimney, and a nice line of bolts heading upward. Looking up:


David lead the second pitch - cerebral slopey and pocket moves on rippled sandstone.A 5.10 pitch and Classic Sedona!

I took the lead on pitch 3, weighing in at 5.10:


David took the lead on pitch 4, striking out on to the arete and great position. I followed,and when I got to this roof and saw David had basically soloed this flaring bulge, I KNEW we were supposed to bring gear! It was solid 5.11! Notice the fairly useless bolt on the slab below:


I looked at David with newfound respect as he said, "It wasn't that bad..." Shaken by this turn of events, I then took the sharp end, wandered out in several directions with no sign of bolts. Damn, I need some gear!!!
I spotted a line of bolts above me for the next pitch, so knew I was on the right track. I sucked it up (thinking of David's last lead) and lead this munge pitch with one slung sandstone handle in 100 feet (dirty 5.7). Did I mention it was sandy as all hell and I was gripped out of my skull? My foot slipped a little once, and my body coursed with adrenaline. I got to a good ledge, belayed David up, and he took the lead. The next pitch was short, traversing a roof to the very edge of the formation. I followed, looked up and handed David the draws: "It's all yours!"

David leading out pitch 7 on the amazing prow:


When I followed this pitch (another .10) and got to the anchors, I saw the amazing overhanging wall above and we knew this next pitch was the business.
Just one problem: the first bolt was 60 feet up, past another roof that looked solid 10, and 40 feet up a steep diehedral!
"It looks pretty straightforward" David said, and he took off on lead. I watched with trepidation as he soloed up to the first bolt, and turned the corner:


As he disappeared, I heard him yell: "This is the business!"

He lead the pitch with one hang, and I followed up. "He's crazy!" I thought as I pulled the roof into the diehedral and up. Whe I turned the corner, I was amazed at the clean, thin corner above me. Some solid .10 moves petered out into solid .11 layback/jamming culminated by a few 5.12 slab moves, then the corner opened back up into nice jams. I aided through the crux and was stunned by the amazing position.

The final pitch was one of the most exposed pitches I have ever done. The climb goes straight out to a vertical arete, with a wild swing move with 200 feet of air below my feet. The final moves of the 10th pitch were solid 5.10+, and we gained the summit:


The thought that we should have brought a second rope for the rappel was in the front of my mind, but David assured me he had never done a Burcham route that you couldn't get off with one rope. I was unconvinced, and insisted he find the rappel anchors.
Off he goes!


I was relieved when I heard him shout: "I found the rappel route!" and I rapped to the end of the rope on the vertical wall.
David took off again, and shortly thereafter these words drifted up to me: "I am at the end of the rope, and don't see any anchors!" Oh, crap.
"Wait! I found a ledge!" Then the rope went slack as he went off rappel. I followed him down, and saw to my amazement David perched on a 2-foot ledge 15 feet to the right of the line, and 50 feet off a large, sandy ledge. I swung over with the end-of-rope knots at my belay device, and stuck a handjam into the back of the ledge, perched precariously. I took a deep breath, and released one of the knots. I traversed the small ledge, pulling the rope with the remaining knot through the anchors above with each move.
Meanwhile, David had scrambled down a few feet, and found a perfect horn to sling. He took off his 8 mil perlon belt ( noting that his pants were going to fall down now), slung the horn, threw a 'biner on it, and declared it bomber. Things seemed almost surreal as I watched him weight and rap the line, just waiting for the perlon to roll...
It never happened, and I followed to the ledge with great relief.
The rest of the rappels went uneventfully, and soon we were on the ground. I was happy to be alive at that point, and completely knackered.

We later found out the gear notes:

Descent: Rap the route with 2 ropes.


Protection
1 each 0 TCU through #1 Camalot. A couple extra finger size pieces. 15 draws/slings. No wires. Two ropes. Optional #3 Camalot is handy for P6 and P8.


(gear notes edited from MP link)

It's nice having a ropegun! Thanks, David!

Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jun 4, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
Good job you rugged adventurers!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
Nice job guys. The doc kicks some serious ass!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
wow...quite the adventure indeed, made my hairs raise.

Nice pics too

Thanks for posting up!
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
Awesome. And great photos. That bit about lots of loose sand provoked a physical response here. Bleck!
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
Thats some good stuff right thare!

Prod.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Good job fellas!
Nice post and pix, thanks.
B
Boltgrl

Ice climber
Winslow, AZ
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
You guys are certifiable! Glad you lived to tell the tale! Great post, thanks E!
L

climber
A place with rocks...lots and lots of rocks...
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
Holy Schizell, Mr. E!

Mey hannads ar sweewating jus resaading ths thinggh--cn't tpepey mmno moree. Gglad uur allive!111
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
medicated and flat on my back
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:32pm PT

Nice job and thanks for posting up a good TR with some great photos, way to suck it up
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 4, 2008 - 01:35pm PT
Hey MrE
Great report, and give my respects to that
ropegun! Wow, you guys were smokin'!
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Jun 4, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
Not alone am I happy you guys survived another one, but I'm more impressed that David is no longer running the Skullit™

Sure is neat to see you exploring Sedona.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Reno
Jun 4, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
Good to the see the E-man out crankin harder than ever.
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Jun 4, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
Great TR Erik, sounds like another challenging route John has provided us.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Jun 4, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
f*#king a tweety ! Nice work dude ! way to run it out and rationalize it :-) (slap dave upside the melon for me too please...)
jsj

climber
Boulder
Jun 4, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/miscellaneous_routes/106171656?highlightphrase=into+the+wild&

http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/106167793_112b2e.jpg

...I was happy to have cams. Ballsy leading that 5.11 roof crack with no gear -- a fall would be certain orthopaedic surgery.
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Jun 4, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
Nice TR, thanks for posting.
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
Thanks for the link, jsj. I'll edit the gear notes.

Erik
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 4, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
What a great TR!
thanks,
Zander
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 5, 2008 - 01:12am PT
well, i am stuck between two thoughts-



is doc the kinda partner i wanna have?



or the kinda partner i wanna be?















(obviously both)
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