caldwell/sjong free magic mushroom

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 50 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
klk

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Original Post - May 19, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
that's what they're saying at alpinist:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-free-caldwell-magic-mushroom

surprised this stuff doesn't get out onto the st corner of the tubes first.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 19, 2008 - 06:43pm PT
Another astonishing feat. It will be interesting to hear the full story of their adventure, and things like what minor variations and additions were needed. The topo shows two pendulums (one double), which must have been a challenge.

Possibly the story was 'sold' to Alpinist. Who knows? I just want to know how they managed to sneak by Ansel Evans. :-)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 19, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
I always thought that route would go, at least after Corazon and all that stuff over there went down. The double pendulum pitch is all knobby - it's right below Chickenhead Ledge.

That's a fantastic free line if it's true!

Congratulations to the boyz if they pulled it!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 19, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
Proud send!! Well done guys!

Holy crap, all free from the ground in a push?!?
scooter

climber
fist clamp
May 19, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
M.Hiker-

If you are a skilled climber and ask Mr.Evans to keep what you are doing quiet he obliges. A Class act that Tom.

P
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
May 19, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
Amazing! Can't wait to read more about it and see some photos!
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
May 19, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
Well done!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
May 19, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
Nice
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 19, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
I wonder if they freed the start - with the pendulum around the arete of the Muir corners above Moby Dick?
Brian

climber
Cali
May 19, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
Way to go.

(and bump for a climbing thread)

Brian
James

climber
Santa Cruz
May 19, 2008 - 10:12pm PT
Kevin,
I saw them working on that bit. I imagine so.
Sanjan

Boulder climber
a prissy pit
May 20, 2008 - 12:35am PT
nice , but i suspect the "A3" scars provide alot of purchase by now .
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 20, 2008 - 12:47am PT
" nice , but i suspect the "A3" scars provide alot of purchase by now ."

You're right it's prolly light.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 20, 2008 - 06:19am PT
Not sure, but the route shouldn't be too scarred up - I did the second ascent with Richard Harrison around '74, but I don't think it's real popular - especially the start to Mammoth.

At least it wasn't done much in the 70s and 80s.
captain chaos

climber
May 20, 2008 - 07:39am PT
The flared overhanging corners on the headwall must have been a bit wild... it was awkward just aiding the thing, I can't imagine what trying to free something like would be like. Regardless if they pulled it off, congratulations... pretty impressive and bad ass.
James

climber
Santa Cruz
May 20, 2008 - 08:27am PT
The route was tried a few years ago, 4?, by Adam Stack, who equipped a lot of the rig but never managed to free it in its entirety.
lamadera

Trad climber
New Mexico
May 20, 2008 - 08:49am PT
There were very few pin scars when I did it a few years ago. Not very popular, but a great route. Long sections of very thin (tied off LAs) cracks. Beautiful rock, amazing position, incredible accomplishment to free it.
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
May 20, 2008 - 09:33am PT
Congrats to those guys.

Glad to see that big wall free climbing is still pushing forward. It seems to be a good blend of their crack, sport and wall skills. I have no doubt that there will be some truly amazing routes freed on El Cap if this focus continues.
cultureshock

Big Wall climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
May 20, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
A bit more info from Alpinist:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-caldwell-magic-mushroom-details

All free from the ground swinging leads.

"Though the 5.14a crux of the Dihedral Wall (VI 5.8 A3, Baldwin-Cooper-Denny, 1962), which Caldwell freed at 5.14a in 2005, is perhaps more difficult than any single move on Magic Mushroom, Magic Mushroom is far more sustained, with eleven 5.13 or 5.14 pitches and nine 5.12 to 5.12+ pitches."

Edited: While the article says they did it in a push I expect they bived.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 20, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
It's just mind blowing to see these routes get freed.

And in increasingly better style.
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