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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 19, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Another astonishing feat. It will be interesting to hear the full story of their adventure, and things like what minor variations and additions were needed. The topo shows two pendulums (one double), which must have been a challenge.
Possibly the story was 'sold' to Alpinist. Who knows? I just want to know how they managed to sneak by Ansel Evans. :-)
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 19, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
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Proud send!! Well done guys!
Holy crap, all free from the ground in a push?!?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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May 19, 2008 - 10:55pm PT
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M.Hiker-
If you are a skilled climber and ask Mr.Evans to keep what you are doing quiet he obliges. A Class act that Tom.
P
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 19, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Amazing! Can't wait to read more about it and see some photos!
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 19, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
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Well done!
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 19, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
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Nice
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Brian
climber
Cali
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May 20, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Way to go.
(and bump for a climbing thread)
Brian
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 20, 2008 - 01:12am PT
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Kevin,
I saw them working on that bit. I imagine so.
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Sanjan
Boulder climber
a prissy pit
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May 20, 2008 - 03:35am PT
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nice , but i suspect the "A3" scars provide alot of purchase by now .
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 20, 2008 - 03:47am PT
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" nice , but i suspect the "A3" scars provide alot of purchase by now ."
You're right it's prolly light.
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captain chaos
climber
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May 20, 2008 - 10:39am PT
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The flared overhanging corners on the headwall must have been a bit wild... it was awkward just aiding the thing, I can't imagine what trying to free something like would be like. Regardless if they pulled it off, congratulations... pretty impressive and bad ass.
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 20, 2008 - 11:27am PT
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The route was tried a few years ago, 4?, by Adam Stack, who equipped a lot of the rig but never managed to free it in its entirety.
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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May 20, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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There were very few pin scars when I did it a few years ago. Not very popular, but a great route. Long sections of very thin (tied off LAs) cracks. Beautiful rock, amazing position, incredible accomplishment to free it.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 20, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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Congrats to those guys.
Glad to see that big wall free climbing is still pushing forward. It seems to be a good blend of their crack, sport and wall skills. I have no doubt that there will be some truly amazing routes freed on El Cap if this focus continues.
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cultureshock
Big Wall climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
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May 20, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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A bit more info from Alpinist:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-caldwell-magic-mushroom-details
All free from the ground swinging leads.
"Though the 5.14a crux of the Dihedral Wall (VI 5.8 A3, Baldwin-Cooper-Denny, 1962), which Caldwell freed at 5.14a in 2005, is perhaps more difficult than any single move on Magic Mushroom, Magic Mushroom is far more sustained, with eleven 5.13 or 5.14 pitches and nine 5.12 to 5.12+ pitches."
Edited: While the article says they did it in a push I expect they bived.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 20, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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It's just mind blowing to see these routes get freed.
And in increasingly better style.
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 20, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
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In a push?...does that mean they didn't bivy on the wall
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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May 21, 2008 - 11:03am PT
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Growing Up vs. the Mushroom: sorta opposite ends of the spectrum, eh?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 21, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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Amazing! I can't even imagine what it's like to be that good of a rock climber.
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