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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 24, 2016 - 02:49pm PT
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I am not ashamed to admit that I've done this route seven times. I don't think there's a loose granule anywhere on it. Such pure fun and position. Reading this thread makes me want to do it again. I found the key to the approach was to hike in from Porcupine Creek, which goes very quickly, and then stash extra stuff up top and scramble down somewhat right (skier's right) of the dome. If you stay too close, the brush is brutal. Swing wide, connected clear spots, then swing in from a little below the start. Thanks, FA team, for some of my best days in the mountains.
BAd
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 24, 2016 - 02:56pm PT
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worst route ever, don't go up there. if you drive to Porcupine Flat you might as well keep going to Stately Pleasure Dome.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 24, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
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I would have thought that anyone who climbs at a level to enjoy Crest Jewel would have even more fun linking with Royal Arches first. If you can climb Crest Jewel, a simul of Royal Arches is not more than 2-4 hours, and maybe 1 hour to base of CJ, which seems a more pleasant way to spend time than driving up to Porcupine Flat and then walking/biking out to North Dome and bushwhacking or rapping down to CJ base.
The only exception I can envision is if you want to break it down to smaller pieces and bring bivy gear to the top of North Dome area.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2016 - 03:31pm PT
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just think, if I nuke this thread, I'll be able to get added to the 'users that nuke threads list'!!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Oct 24, 2016 - 06:25pm PT
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I am so sad. BITD Dan asked me to help with a new project that he was about to start (Crest Jewel) but I was too busy with other things and blew it off.
-SIGH-
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Oct 25, 2016 - 02:06am PT
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I thought the best way was to do the Arches and walk to CJ -CJ direct, then walk out to Porcupine flat and have your wife waiting there with a cooler of beer.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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I thought the best way was to do the Arches and walk to CJ -CJ direct, then walk out to Porcupine flat and have your wife waiting there with a cooler of beer.
This should the cover story of the climbing mags.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Oct 25, 2016 - 07:53am PT
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That's how we did it once,,very nice. Then to the lake for a dip.
Wasn't the f'a around 10 days because of some rain as well as lot's of hand drilling ? And EB's of course.
Great climb anyway you do it
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