Crest Jewel a rap bolted route?

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Original Post - May 17, 2008 - 02:41am PT
"Crest Jewel, is also a rap-job. The bolts are not really in the right place as they hadn't climb the pitches on top rope, before drilling."

Is this right Coz? or did I miss some irony somewhere?

Not for nothing, but that kinda takes the wind out of my sails to want to do that line now.
Gobie

Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
May 17, 2008 - 04:23am PT
I think Karl Baba has a story on his site about the first ascent of those routes on the Jewel. Do a search.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 17, 2008 - 10:00am PT
My story was about our second ascent of Crest Jewel Direct. Dan Dingle and company did the first ascent of both the Jewel and the Direct.

I can't speak for Crest Jewel but I'm pretty sure the Direct (harder) wasn't rap bolted (although it would have been really easy to have done it that way) because Dan told me their secrets of hiding bat hook holes with the hangers.

Peace

Karl
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
May 17, 2008 - 10:16am PT
Do the line. Incredibly fun. On both that one and south face I came in from the top and rapped down to avoid the hike from RA and manzanita bush whacking. of course it's illegal, but you can take a mt bike almost all the way from Porcupine Flat to the top of N Dome and rap to the start.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
May 17, 2008 - 10:22am PT
I can say for sure that at least some of the direct was put up on lead, because I saw Dan working on it as I rebolted the upper route (on rappel).

He also told me he led in tennis shoes on the original route because his EBs were all worn out and he couldn't afford new ones.

I would have to agree that not all the bolts are where I would have put them, but it doesn't logically follow that they were placed on rappel.

Maybe we can get Dan to check in here.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
May 18, 2008 - 08:52am PT
I know that Crested Jewel Direct was done ground up. A good friend of mine Steve Swan was in on the FA and told me some of the tails of the ascent.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuq, NM
May 19, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
Such a shame that such an awesome climb has such odd placements for some of the bolts and the belays.

But at least the climb is there.

The odd bolt placements are no reason not to do the climb.
Sioux Juan

Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
Jun 3, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
crest jewel direct was ground up !!
drgonzo

Trad climber
east bay, CA
Jun 3, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
Does it matter? The CJ is a great day on the rock. The bolts on the second pitch are in strange places, IMHO.

And please don't ride a bike on the trail(s). Why do you think the NPS gets the idea that climbers are dirtballs? What's wrong, are your legs too spindly to hike the 10 miles? Be stout, man!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 3, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
"I was so shocked I wanted to strangle him on the spot, but he seemed like a good guy and I let it go."

-what a great line.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jun 3, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
Anyone done the route to the right of Crest Jewel that traverses under the big roof? I cant recall the name right now, starts with a T... Looks pretty awesome, but also a bit scary, as there are some serious looking 10c 10d pitches under the roof I think..
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 5, 2008 - 03:33am PT
Just got this from Dan Dingle, nice guy and Crest Jewel FA dude.

"Hi Karl,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Been working long hours and out
of town a lot. Some of my personal stuff slipped through the cracks. Thanks
for sending the link about Crest Jewel. Strange to me it would generate such
interest. Seems to have a life of its own.

I’m flattered that Scott would have the reaction he did concerning the
route, but truth is, I wouldn’t have had such a conversation. Also, it’s
unlikely he spoke with my climbing partner as he stopped frequenting the
Valley after we did the route.

I typically drill on lead and occasionally rappel down to add bolts to
pitches led earlier if my partner and I later feel the runnout was
unreasonable for the type and grade of the climb done. Crest Jewel was no
exception. If anyone is curious about my style of climbing, they can talk
with my climbing partners.

Over the years it has come back to me that the climbing on Crest Jewel is
too easy, or too hard, or that the bolts are too close, or too far apart,
placed in a good location, or placed inconveniently, or … There is no end to
the opinions and speculations that people have about this route, other
routes, or life in general. As to the bolts not being in the “right place”…
I’m not sure even a committee could agree on where that might be.

With all due respect to the passionate contributors to supertopo, I have no
desire to engage in online discussions because I don’t have time to monitor,
read, and reply to the numerous fascinating musings, philosophical
ponderings, and moral/ethical debates that flourish there. Nor do I have
interest in engaging in dialogue online where rumors and hearsay abound.

I do appreciate, however, your insightful, thoughtful and balanced
contributions to the climbing community in person and via this medium.

Please feel free to post this letter in part or in its entirety.

Hope to see you soon,

Dan Dingle"

There is is, Is it still a rap job if you climbed the whole thing ground up to start with?

Peace

Karl
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 04:56am PT
thx Dan! and KB


adding bolts to a route after the FA by the FA party is ok in my book. Though I really appreciate knowing which bolts are post hoc, just for my own appreciation of the FA.
Sioux Juan

Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
Oct 24, 2016 - 10:44am PT
Crest Jewel Direct
was ...... on sight and ground up ! no top rope ....to see if it'll go ?
the line we used was a easy looking one ? we passed for two weeks .....looking for a more direct line ......but no go ! the choss was so bad every hold would crumble ? this we did by droping two ropes from the 2nd pitch of Crest Jewel ! pure junk .... so we went to the line we felt would be no problem and it was not ! it was real fun, good petra ? having never climbed Crest Jewel before .... I was surprised to see how similar the two climbs blended together ? like it was supposed to be ?
as far as added bolts Dan did add one to the first pitch ( mine ) and a request to add another ? as far as the 10d bolt ladder ? You don't have to clip every bolt ? I used to skip bolts that I didn't think I needed ? u-no ? to keep the game up ! so if you think its too tight for you ? skip a few bolts on the 10d and post up your count ? its safe to do so ? nothing to hit but the belay-r. we just wanted to do a line that was fun, safe and on par with the above classic ......we Dan Dingle n i gave it a go....... tried hard to make it a good and well liked line with as much traditional style possible ......I feel we did ..... 100%
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 24, 2016 - 10:57am PT
Anyone done the route to the right of Crest Jewel that traverses under the big roof? I cant recall the name right now, starts with a T... Looks pretty awesome, but also a bit scary, as there are some serious looking 10c 10d pitches under the roof I think..

Are you referring to Dakshina (aka, I think, "Disco Strangler" or some equally inviting name)?

Sorry. I haven't done it.

John
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 24, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
Over the years it has come back to me that the climbing on Crest Jewel is
too easy, or too hard, or that the bolts are too close, or too far apart,
placed in a good location, or placed inconveniently, or … There is no end to
the opinions and speculations that people have about this route, other
routes, or life in general. As to the bolts not being in the “right place”…
I’m not sure even a committee could agree on where that might be.

Classic. Thanks for passing that along, Karl.

All I remember about Crest Jewell is the beautiful rock, the spectacular setting, and a perfect day with a good friend. The bolts? There must have been some somewhere...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 24, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
Only did it once and vaguely recall wondering about one bolt maybe, but
they were all heinous rusty spinners by that point so the placements were
not really on our minds. Done properly, as mortals, from Royal Arches it
is a real classic.
couchmaster

climber
Oct 24, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
Has anyone else missed the bolt that goes up and stupidly traversed the 80 plus feet of off route dike to the anchor out there to the right much to their 2nds non amusement? I'll confess to it:-)

Great route Dan and Sioux Juan
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 24, 2016 - 01:37pm PT
Main thing I remember about Crest Jewel is taking 3 long sliders each time as I was about to clip the same bolt at the end of P1 (which may have been a linked P1/P2). My partner wanted to bail, and I was scared but also pissed and wanted to get up it. So I did. I didn't fall anywhere else on the route, but I remember thinking "how am I gonna do at the crux if I'm falling down here?"

I guess I could have used that one bolt a little closer but I won't complain about it. I'm just thankful the dudes put the route up in a spectacular location. Truly an amazing vantage point on the valley and Half Dome in particular.


The email commentary about Supertopo is pretty funny. And staying off here is probably a good policy for anyone that wants to stay as productive as they can!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 24, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
Most pure fun slab climb on the planet

Need a paper bag? C'mon, it's good, even very good, but it's not Darrington good. ;-)
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