Captian Obvious Question

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kev

climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
Hi All,

Since I suspect the 4x4 road in to the lookout is prolly still a mess I was wondering if anyone has done the approach from below in the last few weeks? I've never approached the Eagles from below so 1) I'm not sure where to start, and 2) I'm wondering how much snow there was/is...

Thinking about this as a Yosemite alternative for sat or sunday next week-I'm about to go into my touron avoidance mode...

thanks,

kev
kev

climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
bump
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
May 15, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
????? Idon'tgetit, but I do like omelettes...
kev

climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2008 - 07:22pm PT
Captian Obvious is a route on one of the eagle domes in the southern yosemite area..
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
May 15, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
Well it doesn't appear to be so obvious....
tiki-jer

climber
fresno/clovis
May 16, 2008 - 09:51am PT
Hey Kev.....last I heard the road to Chiquito Dome is open and a little birdy said the Cold Springs approach is open as well.
We are headed in the same direction for the weekend.
Would love to show a few locals Lost Eagle Dome.
tiki-jer

climber
fresno/clovis
May 16, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
That little birdy was wrong...Cold Springs approach still closed.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 16, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
Kev,
I was on Chiquito Dome on the 6th. There was still a lot of snow at the base of Gray Eagle. It has been over a week and if your not going up until the 24th, I think you will be good due to the warm temps this week.

Very cool route and a very obvious line but for some reason the name annoys me. Sean Jones put up a few high quality routes there as well on the right side of the Dome. There are also cool routes on Minerva Dome. Old Mans Dream 5.9 is very cool.

There was a nesting pair of peregrines up there last spring that were obviously unhappy when we were near the far lefthand side of Gray. We left that area instantly and climbed on the right side instead with no problem.Please respect the birds.

I may head that way this Sunday, I'll let you know what I find out .

Jeff
randomtask

climber
North fork, CA
May 16, 2008 - 06:18pm PT
Just to confirm your suspicions: the road to the look out is still a mess and probably will be for a few weeks. Much more snow than we expected on the road still. Gray and Electric Eagles are holding the lion's share of snow on the ridge, but if I remember right the domes themselves were pretty clear. Cold Springs is a no go.
-JR
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 19, 2008 - 10:56am PT
kev,
I was up there yesterday(5-18). The road from below is snow free. No snow on the hike up either. There is snow at the base of most of the routes. Captain Obvious won't be a problem, probably snow free by next weekend. The routes farthest right might hold snow for a while.

To get there, take the Minarets Road out of North Fork. From North/South Fork it is about one hr to the dirt rd that gets you the closest. The road is marked by a sign for the Shuteye pass trail. You will turn left onto this dirt road then after a ways you will turn left again on a steep rutted road that gets you to the start of the trail. Good campsite here.It takes me about 30min to the base but might take longer trying to stay on the not always obvious trail. Basically the trail heads out of the campsite on an old overgrown logging road that heads up than makes a sharp right. When the road ends you are almost at a creek. Cross the creek and follow it up on slabs keeping your eyes out for the trail that works its way up and right.

Jeff
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 20, 2008 - 10:09am PT
Bump for kev, not sure if you saw this. You still headed out?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 20, 2008 - 10:19am PT
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
May 21, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
Howdy locals/friends,
Just a quick note that Captian Obvious had an unrecorded ascent in 1993 by Brant Didden and Pete Cassam. No bolts placed and a slung horn to rap off the pinnacle at the top. They called it "The Wing Feather", 5.8, but suspected that as the line is so obvious, that it might have even been climbed prior to their ascent.

They climbed a handful of other natural lines on the dome up to 5.11. Details uncertain, except for "Book of Spring Pages", which ascends the great right facing corner on the right side of the buttress of "The Wing Feather". FA Pete Cassam & ?

Been meaning to relay this to Grahm, but I'm quite certain Matt is already aware. Just FYI.

Hope to be up there soon!

Oh, tried to email you awhile back, Tork - but email bounced back. We have a friend in common, it seems. Eyeballed 19th Hole last month - looked intimidating.


kev

climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
Thanks everyone!

I didn't get back from the valley until yesterday so I hadn't seen any of this. I'll let you know how it goes! It will be nice to be back up there.

thanks!

kev
mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
May 21, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
Thanks for the post JR and Nate.

Yep, Matt will be a bit sad knowing he didn't FA that line. Makes me wonder if the line he and I did (Intrepid Voyage) on the left side of Gray Eagle was done by Pete too. Brandon Thau was inquiring about it too. if anyone is curious, "I.V." is left of the big buttress, in the middle of the slab, starting at a white marble rock at the base.

Hey, Tiki, JR and Nate........you guys headed to Lost Eagle this weekend? Hopefully, not too much snow bars the way. I'm sure the creek will be big! Brandon inquired about it. You guys should turn him on to it. ;)

Must.....get....a.....fix.........(*gasp*)...please!! Ohhhh, the hidden pleasures of Shuteye!



mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
May 22, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
More Shuteye teaser shots (break out the Kleenex).....


Grahm Doe pushing through the upper moves on 'Twilight' (.12d), The Gold Buttress @ Lost Eagle
mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
May 23, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
Hmmmm.....might want to reconsider the outting to Shuteye, gang!

SPECIAL WEATHER STATEMENT
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY - HANFORD CA
538 AM PDT FRI MAY 23 2008

CAZ093>097-232100-
MARIPOSA MADERA AND FRESNO COUNTY FOOTHILLS-
TULARE COUNTY FOOTHILLS-KERN COUNTY MOUNTAINS-
SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON-
TULARE COUNTY MOUNTAINS-
538 AM PDT FRI MAY 23 2008

...WIDELY VARYING WEATHER CONDITIONS POSSIBLE OVER THE HOLIDAY
WEEKEND FOR THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA..

A COLD LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM WILL BUILD WEST FROM THE ROCKY
MOUNTAINS...FROM UTAH AND NEVADA INTO THE SOUTHERN SIERRA
NEVADA...FROM TODAY THROUGH THE MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND. THIS WEATHER
SYSTEM WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR RAPIDLY CHANGING WEATHER CONDITIONS
AT TIMES IN POPULAR RECREATION AREAS FROM YOSEMITE NATIONAL
PARK...SOUTH THROUGH THE SEQUOIA NATIONAL FOREST.

SHOWERS AND GUSTY WINDS MAY OCCUR AT TIMES THROUGH MONDAY...WITH
THE MOST LIKELY PERIOD FOR PRECIPITATION FROM SATURDAY AFTERNOON
THROUGH SUNDAY NIGHT. SNOW LEVELS MAY FALL TO AS LOW AS 6000
FEET CAUSING ACCUMULATING SNOW TO LOCATIONS SUCH AS TIOGA
PASS...GRANT GROVE...AND MINERAL KING. THUNDERSTORMS WILL ALSO BE
POSSIBLE...WITH A THREAT FROM LIGHTNING...GUSTY WINDS AND HAIL.
THE THREAT FOR SHOWERS MAY SPREAD INTO THE LOWER FOOTHILLS AND
KERN COUNTY MOUNTAINS.

PEOPLE WITH TRAVEL PLANS TO FAVORITE RECREATION AREAS IN THE
SIERRA NEVADA SHOULD BE WELL PREPARED THIS WEEKEND. BRING AN
EMERGENCY ROAD KIT AND WINTER WEATHER KIT INCLUDING SNOW CHAINS.
KEEP IN TOUCH WITH UPDATED WEATHER INFORMATION AND BE ALERT FOR
RAPIDLY CHANGING CONDITIONS. LET FAMILY AND FRIENDS KNOW ABOUT
YOUR OUTDOOR PLANS. FOR THE LATEST WEATHER INFORMATION LISTEN TO
NOAA WEATHER RADIO...WEATHER.GOV/HANFORD ON THE INTERNET...AND
LOCAL MEDIA OUTLETS.
kev

climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
Yeah, I saw that too. Well at least it's going to be an adventure.
Valley weather looks not so great either. Hmmmm Perhaps I'm headed south....

Thanks mooch
kev

climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
This route was fu^&ing awesome! Great Great route!
Going back for much more this summer!

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