East Buttress of Lower Cathedral Rock IV 5.10c

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Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2008 - 02:42am PT
If you happen to find a #6 offset and a long draw let me know. I think they are just swinging in the breeze on pitch 2 or 4.
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 20, 2008 - 09:57am PT
I only soloed it once. If I had known about the Fissure Beck and that 10c pitch I wouldn't have soloed it at all. You did the Fissure right side in as well? ...argh.
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
yep right side in for both of us, we also came in from the left into the wider stuff. this appeared to be the standard way to get into the Fissure Beck. The crux wa bizzar eh, I can not imagine soloing that. Actually I imagine dying when I do so I just avoid the thought all together. Impressive.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
Thinking of doing this in the near future. Anyone got more stories or photos?
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
Pretty sure there a whole other thread on it (W/ pics), and it shows up in one of the many freesolo threads. The search function can be a bitch sometimes tho. Googling might yield you better fruit.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1097338

(With at least one sub-link.)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 16, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
> Thinking of doing this in the near future. Anyone got more stories or photos?

I climbed it in 1996 and led the crux; the topo was quite accurate, and nothing special happened on the climb except the usual fun.

I have many photos of the formation, but none with people (they are mostly similar to the photos on the thread linked above).
This may be partly because it was often closed for bird nesting.
I have seen where the birds nest there - it's quite close to the route.
However, it is not closed this year (yet).
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1456774/Yosemite-Revised-Peregrine-Closures-Arch-Rock
You might want to wait until the snow is melted out of the Gunsight descent, though.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 16, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
Planning on a mid may trip, hope things clear out, I've had my fill of the white mold. I remember a gunsight descent once with lots of snow and melt off, it was not fun.

Thanks for the closure update, I was curious if one was in place. thanks

David Wilson

climber
CA
Jun 17, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Did this route yesterday. A few pics to add to the thread. Overall, it was a great route that needs more traffic. The top pitches are a bit loose, but I suspect with more route finding there would be a better direct version further west to top out this line.

first pitch
first pitch
Credit: David Wilson
the 10c fifth pitch
the 10c fifth pitch
Credit: David Wilson
view from the Gunsight
view from the Gunsight
Credit: David Wilson
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 17, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
East Buttress of Lower Cathedral FA: Powell, Gallwas, D. Wilson 1956,
.
D.Wilson is back after 57 years, ha, ha
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Jun 17, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
i remember being on those upper loose pitches with crappy gear and thinking i was going to die. then el cap caught my eye. i thought "i can't die i haven't climbed the nose!" so for the rest of the pitch i repeated this mantra to myself over and over. it worked rather nicely for calming my nerves.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jun 17, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
What now tinkerb? you can't use that one anymore.
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Jun 17, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
yeah that was twelve years ago i think. i thought about it a lot when i was on the nose last year..."what now?". i can't remember what i came up with. patagonia, mt.russel, whitney, keeler needle, vedavoo, devil's tower, scotland, italy. there are a few more things. i would have been pissed if i had died before i got to climb the nose though...
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jun 17, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Hey I was at Vedauwoo a couple days ago on an OB course. You should check it out, it's the Jtree of the high plains, but with free camping and no NPS.

Anyhow we're hijacking. I will remind everyone of my reaction upon hearing about your adventure on the Nose with Arin:

bad ass!
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 17, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Tucker dragged me up that climb my first real week of climbing; scared the sh?t out me. I remember my mantra on the 10c section was "use your feet".... until my legs cramped. I think Tucker aided the 10c because it took him a long time . We rapelled gunsight at night with no headlamps and only one rope. It was the beginning of learning the hard way.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 17, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
The fact that the FA party did the route in one day (aiding over the bulge at A3) -- and committed to doing the route in one day by taking no bivy gear -- I still find amazing.

John
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