Lost Arrow Chimney (TR)

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Messages 41 - 54 of total 54 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
PopLockeAndDropIt

Trad climber
Dirty South
Feb 1, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
TFPU!!!!!!!!!


Cool looking adventure route, looks very fun
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Feb 1, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
Very nice! Been showing my wife the pics.
WBraun

climber
Feb 1, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
Everyone should be made to do the Lost Arrow Chimney route to get spanked.

It will humble anyone ....
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 2, 2012 - 03:04am PT
A great project would be to go up there and clean all that shite and fixed crap off the route. Wonder how it ended up what so much tat on it?

JL
David Wilson

climber
CA
Feb 5, 2012 - 10:56am PT
great TR

those guys in the way back machine were proud chimney climbers. i need to stop hearing and reading about this route or i'l never do it !
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 5, 2012 - 11:36am PT
Reminding the group that the crux has had its bolts updated last year and is now an appropriate non-death lead. There was a thread mention of this work.

The status of this section back in the day was terribly risky and the fall, into a buzz-saw funnel-shape right below as you stem wildly on crumbly grainy rock. Although only 5.10a combination climbing, it was awfully serious and the climb would go years without an ascent.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Feb 5, 2012 - 11:58am PT
peter - how did Salathe and Nelson aid / pro all that wide in 1947 on the first ascent ?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 5, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
David,

The offwidth never gets that pure, often having instead smaller cracks nearby, features too, difficulties generally mitigated pretty quickly before things ever get that tough.

Don't imagine long pure cracks up there like the modern offwidths of today. It usually is combination climbing, or should be if one keeps one's eyes open. Have you and Chase done the route? If not, hustle on up there ( you two will have NO problem) once it's a whole lot warmer. consider topping out to the rim also. I wouldn't rappel this sucker. It's a good climb for later in the year or summer, being in the shade mostly.

This is not a place to be when there is ice forming both because it is in the shade and any ice forming on the rim above would clatter into the chimney formation at terminal velocity where you are trapped, funnel-like.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Feb 5, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
haven't done the route, but it's on the list now. if there's no ice on the rim, it seems like winter would be fine by the looks of it or might there be a hidden ice hose in the back of the chimney....
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2012 - 02:25am PT
Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!

This thing gets chilly sometimes even in the summer, can't even imagine what it would be like in the winter. Ice or not.

Peter, I was under the impression that the bolt in the rotten chimney was origional to the route, or placed sometime soon after. Pre free ascent that is.

tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 6, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Went up there in July, started a bit late, I think 10am on 1st pitch. (I definitely recommend avoiding roping up before the 5.8. 3rd-4th class.) So hot at top of 1st that we bailed. Sun was going to heat that chimney up like an oven, seemed to us. Absolutely non-viable. (There was also a significant amount of water on the 1st p.) Maybe in late afternoon it would cool down. I dunno, PH, seemed from OP's description of the "real" crux that it's pretty pure squeeze and really run out. I get that the grainy part was the mental crux, esp. bitd. OP seems no stranger to squeeze/OW, either.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 6, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
Salami,

It was pre-free climb, yes. There was more than one and all but one totally bogus, as I remember. The new/today bolt (this news occurs in a prior thread somewhere) replaces the junk that was hanging there for fifty years, thus making a straightforward type lead of crux available to everyone who can climb it (5.10a). It was years ago, a nasty weird dangerous little moment on the climb, necessarily so too.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 6, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
David, another climb up there you and Chase should consider and clearly are ready for, is the Left Side of the Tower of Geek, Freestone.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 6, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
No need to be spooked away from this one. People like Chuck Wilts (2nd ascent??) were getting up this thing in tennis shoes back in the early 50s. It's just a grinder. In his time, Peter H. could have free soloed this thing. Like Greg G. did.

JL
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