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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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May 14, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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Great TR.
It's funny how the cruxes (chimneys) on these old routes still command respect and are hard to send today, but were put up so long ago. Salathe and Nelson were badass.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 14, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
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I'll weigh in, Le Bruce.
We did steck salathe in just under 8hrs camp to camp,
The LA Chimney took somewhat longer (didn't time it) but we were back in camp well before dark, maybe 10hrs? for the whole loop(with Jug lines fixed the day before, and one of us cracked their pelvis)
The Direct? Why pass up campgrounds like those ledges? A spectacular balcony penthouse, every four pitches. We made coffee on every one, until I accidently threw the coffee pot away, d'oh! But we found it, at the base.
We also met friends on top and camped there the last night, a storm moved in or we would have done the tip.
Great routes, however you get up them!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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May 14, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
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What would folks think of someone coming up from the bottom and replacing the old 1/4" bolts along the way? Absolutely no new holes. Perhaps ignore the ones that can take a big-bro next to it.
Given the history of the route, there's no way I could rap down it. But from the bottom up?
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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May 14, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
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Damn that's friggin ballsy leading most of the crux moves with hardly any pro shee! Nice job. The safety valve with no/minimal pro and the pitch 9 squeeze without pro either....scares me thinking about it the route was bold enough, pulling the runout crux with those 2 most sketchy bolts ever. I was curious if they might even hold for body weight. Yeah bent down hanging halfway out the rock with spinning hangers? I've also watched an old leeper hanger slow motion crack in half and fold before my eyes as part of a fixed anchor on elcap while my bro was jugging so maybe I'm extra sketched. Bold bold guys! Yeah more people should get on this route.
We thought that traverse thing was weird/awkward funky as hell too. Is there a better way? I remember leaning over off a little flake clipped to a old fixed pin to a long stepping heel toe foot jam and slamming in one of the big cams. I was wondering if some badass might ever just try to free that offwidth straight up from the bottom there. The only decent enough to feel ok if we did fall pro we got on the crux pitches were the #6 friend and a 4 bro. Pitch 9 was the burl dog crux, but not as scary for us! Nice TR.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 14, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
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Bitchin'!!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 15, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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I re-set my adjustable chimney to 9 1/2 inches just to train for this climb. It climbs pretty well. Maybe I need to grease it.
Z
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2008 - 09:59am PT
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L
climber
Ocean of dreams....
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May 16, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
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Great TR Salamanizer.
My palms are still sweating.
Kudos to Mike for the crux work, and kudos to you for those most excellent photos!
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Gene Pool
Trad climber
A trailer park in Santa Cruz
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May 17, 2008 - 07:37pm PT
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Yee haw!! Looks fun and scary. You better lead me up some scary s*%t this summer mike. Are you sure we are related? I think you were adopted.
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coldrainsnow
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 19, 2008 - 03:35pm PT
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Damn Mike (and Chad), nice work! Great pics.
Hey Mr. T, do you know you know this kid? ha ha... take a closer look at the picture.... :)
have fun, be safe
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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May 21, 2008 - 01:01am PT
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I think your picture didn't show up. Is it of a tie-off that goes clunk at 10:03PM at the base of the leaning tower?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 21, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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An excellent trip report, of a route with some fabled but rarely photographed pitches.
Perhaps there's a public service project somewhere in it - some cleanup plus (very cautious) anchor replacement?
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OhYeah!!!
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 24, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
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Celebratory beers and women waited for us on the top... What motivation.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 30, 2009 - 03:58am PT
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Mango like.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 30, 2009 - 08:29am PT
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Great TR! Those pictures bring back memories. Kinda old school, wasn't it. I also remember it as physical but not scary.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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These pics are incredible.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Very nice! Been showing my wife the pics.
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WBraun
climber
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Everyone should be made to do the Lost Arrow Chimney route to get spanked.
It will humble anyone ....
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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A great project would be to go up there and clean all that shite and fixed crap off the route. Wonder how it ended up what so much tat on it?
JL
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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great TR
those guys in the way back machine were proud chimney climbers. i need to stop hearing and reading about this route or i'l never do it !
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