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Grumpy
Trad climber
Sheffield, UK
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2008 - 06:51am PT
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Does anyone know if pegs and hammer are essential on the route as mentioned on the topo. Thanks
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ec
climber
ca
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Maybe just for the last pitch. However, if you're a decent aid climber with clean aid, you won't have any problem.
 ec
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I found spots for a few......
Clean is great but that's quite an undertaking to not have any.
If you're strictly hard core clean, go for it.
If you're more interested in a bit of insurance, as I was, then take a wee smattering.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Did it clean in about 1975 using only stoppers and hexes. Don't recall it being too hard, even without cams. But we carried a hammer, just in case.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Is that TS?
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Strongerdog
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Rick, what pitch is that? Is that one of the last pitches on the route? I tried to do it clean a few years back in a single push, free climbing as much as possible, but got stormed off maybe two from the top. I always wanted to go back to finish. One beautiful wall.
I would almost rap in to finish but.......hum, now where have I seen that done? Naw, maybe not!
Steve
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jim Orey and I did it a few years after Ricky and Tobin. Did it all clean and without cams. Neither one of us felt maxxed-out so you should be fine up there. Just take alot of water......
JR
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crackfiend
climber
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NO hammer is necessary.... there is one particular pitch that is 10+ or a1 that can be bypassed by 5.9 free climbing on the left. check the mcTopo it should indicate this. The climbihg is c2 max pretty straightforward
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Conrad and I did it "scamper style" no jumars or aiders, traveling light enough to jog a bit on the approach and descent, no problem without pins or hammer. Great climb, amazing to do a wall in Yos without view or sound of cars.
Enjoy,
Peter
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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great photo, thx for posting.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Bump, cause I like it. More pics please.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I've been saying it for years: The Bob Locke Memorial Buttress, which follows the right skyline of the fantastic pic (previous post) is one of the coolest big walls in the YV, or anywhere.
Very unique features, including a two foot wide quartzite dike cutting across (10b) a blank face (at the 2,500 foot level).
JL
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Johnnie,
That is a great line. Still want to do that one.
Here is another of the regular route. Gib Lewis photo of me.
Rick
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Hey Rick, think that block you are sitting on is still there?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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That's a great shot Ricky. A little like that bird's nest shot of RH on Washington Col (Ladyland). I remember you were on quit a roll back then doing clean ascents of walls. Din't you and Gibo just get done with another first clean ascent just prior to Watkins??
Wish I could have joined you guys on that one.
And how about the Bird scouting the Locke route via helicopter following rescue. I'm sure you remember that story.
JL
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 10, 2008 - 08:36am PT
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JL-I can’t remember what else we did without pins.. Could have been the Nose or the West Face of Sentinel.
I don’t remember the story of Bridwell doing the helicopter reconaissance of the Locke route. I am pretty sure he was not on the Locke rescue that night. Do tell.
Up above, Steve asked what pitch Tobin was on, but I don’t recall. That’s a long way to rappel off, two pitches from the top and a lot of the route below is slanting! There must be a good story there.
Gnome- maybe one of the recent ascenders can tell if that pillar is still there.
By the way, I ran into the last surviving member of the Mt. Watkins first ascent party in downtown Boulder this last week.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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May 24, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
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Good photos .
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 24, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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Taken in the fall of 1979 when Max and I went out to Watkins to free climb it.
This me working up to the pendulum.
Free climbing the pitch of Sheraton Watkins
The Watkins Headwall
One of the best climbs I've ever done.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 24, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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Oh, so neat!
Great shots, Rick & Mark!!!!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 24, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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The Watkins Pinncales have vast potental.
JL
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 24, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
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L, They do, and the face to the left.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Anguish -
Got any shots of Hook, Line & Sinker????
Great shots Rick.
Thanks
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Aug 20, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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Bump for a great thread.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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May 15, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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Anybody here ever done Watkins gully? Looks fun - photo graphic recon.
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D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
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Jun 14, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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Wow what a route!
Just did this last weekend, and it was a journey. So cool to be way up the canyon on the side of a huge wall; everything you see is granite. Clouds rest is an amazing feature!
I thought this route was way harder than the grade suggests- the free climbing is tough, and the aid is not your average el cap trade route c2.
The bivy at 11 is amazing! A perfect home emerges out of the sheer wall, and then straight back to the vertical. Awesome.
Daryl
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