Mid-Life Crisis, etc. TR

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Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 6, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
Armed with extensive beta from you-all, we set out for the slabs.



A strong partner is good.

We warmed up on Harry Daly and above on Friday. A blue alien mysteriously failed to return from up there somewhere. Coonyard, I think it is.



The start of Mid-Life Crisis. The only gear goes in the starting flake, which isn't shown on the topo.



Second pitch. 6 or 7 nice new bolts. It's all pretty sustained .10 friction and tiny edges.



Third pitch



coming up to a bit of lieback/stem on loose grains. Bolt on top so no gear needed.



Looking down from the top (4th pitch) at 60'+ runout 5.8. I pulled through one move at the start of P.4- .10c?.

Friday the 13th continues 2 more pitches, but between the calf-burn, and mental fatigue, we opted to head toward the Mountain Room Bar.



Sunday we went to Super Slide, and started on Trial by Fire, strenuous (for me) 5.8 flare.





Not a good time to have forgotten the helmet, as this is below Serenity/ Sons of Yesterday. One cam whistled down, and several rope cracks were scary

The pitch above was sketchy and loose, up to the start of Super Slide.



A bit wet. I bootied a cam from the second pitch that must have been in there for years. About 15 minutes.



Starting up the last pitch, the rain came. Since most everyone had split, it was a good time to toss down some very loose blocks. Lowered off a fixed cam, and we sogged down.



.11c slab in the rain?

A good time was had by all!




bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 6, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
pretty cool. I've never been on the GP slabs, looks fun though.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 6, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
Jay
You had me all psyched up for a string of Porsche 911
pix. . .the real american mid-life crisis. . .
LOL
Great pix--those clouds over Half Dome looked pretty
threatening!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 6, 2008 - 03:14pm PT
that's not GPA, is it? RAA, yes?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 6, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
Nice - thanks for sharing!
L

climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
May 6, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
Nice TR, Jay, but haven't you heard?


Friends don't let friends climb slab...especially in the rain.:-)
Orion

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 6, 2008 - 04:05pm PT
You guys did super slide or solar slab the right way, the 5.5 start is lame. I really don't know why this climb is so dang popular. I did the second to last pitch and stayed left too long for one of the scariest munge runouts of my life and overall the route has one nice 5.9 finger crack that you climb a lot of junk to get to.

I like the picture of the 60' of rope with no gear, it reminds me of a photograph I have from south crack on stately pleasure dome that I took, the rope heads down the slab and all you see is the edge. Don't show those to people who love you!

NIce TR, thanks for sharing your adventures!
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
May 6, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
great photos, great routes.
mid life is very thin, but stellar.
trial quite physical for the grade.
super slide a step down in quality.
nicely done.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 6, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
We TRed the Slab to the right of the SuperSlide crack upper pitches once. Went oK and seemed like good climbing. Wouldn't be a bad slab climb if somebody was motivated

Peace

karl
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
Yeah, Mid Life is on Royal Arches Apron.

The slab to the right of the wide crack has one stud sticking up with no hanger. That could rip you a new one....

Clint- I brought a pole in case we got shut down, after reading of your combo-climb.

Friends don't let friends use stick clips?
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
May 6, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
Nice TR. Sounds like a good time.

I can't believe that Super Slab is becomming such a popular route. Is that because you can do it while wiating for your number at Serenity Crack? And has all the recent travel cleaned up the first couple pitches a bit?
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
May 6, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
Jay Wood - Personally, that's too much slab for me, and for the grade... Let's just say you won't catch me on the rig anytime soon.

Awesome TR! Love the shot of the rope disappearing over the slope of the slab.. A bit RUNOUT!!!? Sheesh! Scary!!!

Thanks
Double D

climber
May 6, 2008 - 10:46pm PT
Nice TR and photos! Keep it up!
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
May 7, 2008 - 12:24am PT
Dood, you climbed with Fabio?
Indianclimber

climber
Las Vegas
May 7, 2008 - 12:38am PT
Great TR
Thank you
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 7, 2008 - 02:06am PT
thanks for the TR Jay, we spied the clouds from the Cream Area and wondered about who was getting wet.

Trial By Fire is good ol' fun OW at 5.8. Like that climb...
scuffy b

climber
watching the flytrap
May 7, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
Nice report, Jay.
The weekend before, I was watching a party climbing Trial By Fire
and connecting to Super Slab. It looks like the connection
is challenging.
Maybe the fact that Super Slab is mentioned in the raptor closure
brings it added attention?
I've talked to a surprising number of people who have climbed
Super Slab somewhat recently. There seems to be a common opinion
that the climb has less good climbing than they expected.
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