Friday the 13th (valley)

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Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
I read through last summer's rebolting threads...

At .10bR, is the runout mainly at the top, or more pervasive?

Thinking about that, and Midlife Crisis for this weekend.

Thanks.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
Bump.
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Apr 27, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
hey jay,
i think i met you and ed (?) at the pizza deck a couple weekends ago. what'd you end up doing on sunday? my friend vince and i ended up climbing some random single pitch stuff at the base of the column and near royal arches.

 justin

Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
Hi Justin,

We did Arches Terrace Direct, aiding the .11 section. Fun, windy, good views, and a bit of rappin' in the dark. And I got some aid practice in.
At the top of the ,11 crack there is a mantle onto a narrow ledge, and then balancing up some .9 face moves. With the aid rack, the aiders blowing under my feet, and the trail rope hanging free off the side, it was a character building moment.

My partner for this weekend is all about museum slab climbs. He'll be bummed that the 1/4"ers are gone.

I'll look for you next time around.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 12:42am PT
Jay,

> My partner for this weekend is all about museum slab climbs. He'll be bummed that the 1/4"ers are gone.

:-) As Bob said in another thread, "You snooze, you lose". The 1/4"ers were there since the 70s and 80s, so your friend had his chance (and I bet he has had some fun on those routes!). Most of the rawls and taperbolts were OK, but the broken Zamac at the crux of Shakey Flakes looked pretty sketchy. Some of the rawls on Greasy But Groovy were rather fragile.

The topo is pretty accurate on the runouts, I believe. What I climbed last summer was Hershey Highway, then I made a 5.8 variation (I placed one bolt) to connect to p2 of Midlife Crisis above the small roof. I climbed pitches 2-4 on Midlife Crisis (using some aid, including Roger's 20' cheater stick). I remember in particular cheating to the 3rd bolt on p3 of Midlife Crisis - I did not want to commit to the lieback there, but I am not much of a liebacker so maybe it won't bother you. I led half of p5 on Friday the 13th (to the old bolt), then I tensioned down and right to the belay on top of the 5.10a pitch of Reefer Madness. I led the 5.8 pitch of Reefer Madness, then the 5.9 pitch of Greasy But Groovy, and connected to the big pine tree. Then I led the end of p6 of Friday the 13th, which is rated 5.9+ but is not bad. I did not lead the final pitch of Friday the 13th which is rated 5.9 but looks glassy and fortunately did not have any bolts to replace.

Be aware that there is a wet streak which extends down from the big pine tree in the morning and dries up during the day. There is a newer route not shown on Reid's topo which goes between Reefer Madness and Greasy But Groovy, crosses Reefer Madness, and goes straight up to the pine tree. It continues towards the top at least 2 more pitches, crossing the upper part of Greasy But Groovy. It is not so runout, and I led its pitch above the pine tree.

Have fun!
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2008 - 08:09am PT
Thanks, Clint.

You really get around!


I'm trying to imagine carrying and using a 20' cheater stick....
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